Before we would depart on our third and final road trip in NZ, we had three nights to sleep in a real bed and relax a bit in Christchurch. By this time, however, we were already growing quite fatigued of the fast travel we’d been under for the previous two months. While in Christchurch, we stayed in a budget-thrashing shared Airbnb at $63/night with a Californian turned Kiwi named Tawny and her two big-hearted, and hypoallergenic Tonkinese cats.
We also took one of the two afternoons to walk the 45 minutes to the center so we could explore the newly rebuilt city, which in the early 2010s was decimated by two major earthquakes. Amongst this newfound modernity, one can find a bit of mish-mash, but some pretty unique finds. These included a remarkable Transitional Cathedral made of cardboard, one of the most irresistible playgrounds we’ve ever seen, and a few other goodies.
The Cardboard Cathedral (pictured in title photo) is a dynamic symbol of resilience and innovation, which was constructed as a temporary replacement for the original Christchurch Cathedral which suffered severe damage during the devastating 6.3 magnitude earthquake in February 2011.
Designed by Japanese architect Shigeru Ban, it’s notable because it’s built with 96 cardboard tubes, each weighing approximately 500 kilograms, forming the roof and walls on the edge of Latimer Square. It also incorporates polycarbonate roofing and “windows” which allow in natural light. It’s pretty amazing how a place so…uh….temporary…can feel so inviting and serene.
The main materials used in its construction. So fascinating. It’s intended to have a lifespan of 50 years while the reconstruction of a new cathedral is underway.
The Edmonds Clock Tower was another that toppled during the earthquake and has since been reconstructed. It was commissioned in 1929 by Thomas Edmonds, the founder of a famous baking powder brand.
Stumbling into the best playground we’ve perhaps ever seen called the Margaret Mahy Family Playground complete with a whirly kid magnet and jungle gyms galore.
It also had an integrative water park, a zipline, or a flying fox as the Kiwis say, with a really impressive launch pad…
…rideable spinny tops, a new wave of the old-fashioned tin can telephone…
….and nearby, a wicked cool skate and scooter park for the older kids.
Walking around Christchurch is a bit strange because it feels more like a town than a city of 400K+ people. A lot of this has to do with its open spaces, squatter buildings and lack of traffic. There is also quite a strange blending of buildings…some modern, some artsy, and some historic. Nothing really seems to flow together….and with a lack of any obvious city planning.
For example, it looks like this historic building was split in half with a hacksaw and then wedged up next to this eyesore.
They do have some eyecatching murals, however…
…which integrate nicely with the Avon River which meanders through the leafy city center.
The commercial zone of the city felt very empty for the 4:00 happy hour time frame, though there were multiple happy hours and restaurants to choose from near the riverfront.
Paying our respects to the February 22, 2011 Canterbury Earthquake National Memorial when the lives of 185 people were lost and many others were seriously injured. This was one of thousands of earthquakes that shook the area beginning in September 2010.
Unfortunately, we just arrived to the river as the charming “Punting on the Avon” was wrapping up for the day, which seems to be the Venetian gondola of Christchurch. This very British-inspired activity allows participants to glide along the Avon River in a flat bottomed boat, traditionally pushed along by an Edwardian-donned “punter” who stands in the back using a long pole for the duration of the 30-45 minute ride. I guess it didn’t occur to these guys that sunset could be their biggest revenue generator as they packed up their boats at 5 p.m?!
A little slice of history at the Riverside Market.
And of course, we had to check out Two Thumb Brewery where pints were about $12 NZD or $7 USD, but highly quaffable.
Heading back to the apartment, Mandy luxuriates in the fact that her velvety furred Tonkinese lover climbed right up in her lap and started purring like a Corvette. Seriously, if you’re allergic to cats, this breed is the way to go. It’s rare we’ve found any this affectionate.
