Day One: Arrowtown to Lindis Pass Hotel (1.5 hours driving)
The Best Preserved Town in NZ: Arrowtown
New Zealand is not exactly known for its picturesque villages that exude charm like other destinations around the world. However, there is one gold mining town, founded in the 1860s during the Otago Gold Rush, that has managed to captivate the heart of many tourists and locals alike through its historic preservation, mountain ringed setting and idyllically strollable streets.
In Arrowtown, you can find wall leaning tourists loitering against the historic buildings poised like fatigued cowboys as they wait for a table at a restaurant. You will also find gem factories doling out opal and jade goodies, galleries loaded with Maori and local art, boutique shops with local products, including ample merino wool and bee fabrications, and yes, plenty of free parking and ice cream opportunities, which is a sign of any hopping tourist town.
It’s definitely one not to miss, especially because it’s only 20-minute drive from Queenstown making it the perfect day trip, and is also easily accessible by public bus. It was the first stop on our 7-day road trip from Queenstown to Christchurch.
The town looks a lot like any preserved gold rush town you’d find in the States or Australia with vibrant facades and the sense that you’re stepping back in time. And the mountainous setting truly completes the look.
They also have a little slice of British history to remind them of where they came from. Imagine that. A still working pay phone!? There is a even a convenient poster indicating “HOW TO USE THE PAY PHONE” just in case you don’t have a Boomer/Gen X companion to teach you…
Inviting wine shops with local creations. Also, here’s those loitering cowboys as aforementioned. These were actually loitering outside the Gold Shop. Maybe they were planning a robbery?
The current stone post and telegraph office is a beloved symbol of Arrowtown and was built in 1915, though the original was build in the 1860s. It served as an important communication hub for the region, handling mail and telegraph messages during a time before texting. The telegraph office allowed messages to be sent in a matter of minutes rather than days or weeks. Today, it’s one of the few places in New Zealand where you can still buy traditional hand-stamped postcards.
The original pharmacy from 1862, which still offers a range of healthcare, beauty, and gift products, though I’m pretty sure bronzing cream and mouthwash weren’t quite the “necessity” they are today back then. Ambling down the main street, which is called Buckingham.
North on Buckingham, you can find original miner’s cottages from 1862 which were built by European miners using wood and local schist stone, which formed the original hub of the town. They have all been recognised as Tohu Whenua, a designation for treasured places that have shaped the story of Aotearoa, New Zealand and provide a tangible link to the past. Most of them serve as businesses today like this bike shop.
BungeeTime
Most people have heard that New Zealand is the outdoor adventure capital of the world and amongst those daredevil opportunities is of course, the bungee jump…where thrill-seeking adventurers get the opportunity to plunge headfirst off a bridge with only a giant rubber band attached to their ankles to spring them back to safety.
And though the historic Kawarau Bridge dating from the 1860s is the site of the first commercial 1988 bungee jump, its origins crazily come from centuries ago in Vanuatu.
Did we take the leap? Nope. This surprisingly wasn’t on either one of our bucket lists which is kinda good because it certainly costs a pretty penny at $175 per 43 meter jump. Still, it was a fantastic stop to check out the action over the winding turquoise ribbon far below.
The origin of the ‘Bungy phenomenon lies in Pentecost Island, Vanuatu. For centuries, the people fearlessly land-dived from high towers made from trees, with only a few vines tied to their feet. Local legend tells that a mistreated wife hid from the violent beatings of her husband in a high tree. He climbed up to fetch her… but as he lunged she threw herself from the branches, saving herself with the vines – while her husband plunged to his death! Hehe…
Originally only women jumped – an annual fertility ritual based around the yam harvest. But naturally, Christian missionaries, offended by upended naked women, demanded the jumping be restricted to men – a test of courage that continues to this day. In case you’re wondering how the jumpers stop dangling from the bridge…a raft has to go fetch them.
The great thing about doing such activities in New Zealand? Safety standards 👍🏻🤣
The bridge built by Englishman Henry Higginson truly is a feat of engineering.In case you need a little Liquid Courage, there is a conveniently placed bungee bar inside. Just don’t drink too much or you could have bungee barf….
Campsite #1: Sleeping Near Ruins!
The first day of our second road trip in New Zealand ended with one of the most unique off-the-beaten-path and FREE campsites of our trip near the ruins of the former Lindis Pass Hotel, located about 1.5 hours northeast of Queenstown on Highway 8. This hotel began as a store set up during a failed gold rush of 1861 and by 1873 a permanent building had been built on this site…a hotel which provided almost continuous service of some kind for over seventy years including lodgings, a general store, a post office and a school.
Once you get through the barriers of sheep for about two miles off the main road, it basically sits in an abandoned field where people can park their cars or caravans overnight. We were one of about six cars, which were spread out nicely so that no one was atop the other.
The store was originally located at this site because the Lindis River, which it is perched upon the scene of the first small scale “gold rush” in Otago. Word got out when road maker Samuel McIntyre, a veteran of the California gold fields, recognised the similarity between the regions. News of the diggings soon appeared and by April an estimated 300 miners were present, although a report in July of the same year said it was deserted.
The Lindis rush failed because of the combination of factors including isolation, extreme climate, and expensive provisions. So, the miners packed up their shovels and moved onward.
During the depression of the 1930s, naturally, there was a renewed interest in the gold of the Lindis. Attracted by a subsidy paid by the government, up to 30 unemployed workers lived in a tent camp in the exact same place we laid ours. In return for 30 shillings a week, the miners were allowed to keep a proportion of the gold they found.
The building was gradually added onto over the years and became a residence before being abandoned in 1951. It was a really fun place to end the day and explore.
What a great place to throw down your tent! Although, once again there were no picnic tables, so we had to improvise. It’s a little more understandable there are no picnic tables when the campsites are free!
The key to unstressful car camping? Organisation! We picked up lots of boxes at the Pak ’N Save in Queenstown to Marie Kondo our backseat.
The beautiful Lindis River served as our water source and a lovely backdrop.
Just a side note, on the way there, we also discovered that New Zealand was in stiff competition with Australia for gaudy Instagram props.
Day Two: Lindis Pass Hotel to Hooker Valley Trek
New Zealand Alpine Lavender Farm
As soon as you open your car door at the New Zealand Alpine Lavender farm, you will be inundated with an absolutely soothing aroma amongst the rolling hills of Otago. This is one of the largest certified organic lavender farms in the Southern Hemisphere and a perfect stop en route to Mount Cook. They offer lavender gifts, lots of photo ops, and something everyone should let dance on their tastebuds once in their lifetimes…lavender ice cream. Yum!
Meeting Mount Cook for the First Time
When you’re rolling up NZ Highway 8 and you first begin to witness Aoraki, aka Mt. Cook, rising amongst the clouds of the Southern Alps, it practically feels like an ethereal mirage. However, as the clouds give way, and you realize it’s actually New Zealand’s tallest mountain, at 12,218 foot (3724 meter) giant, you are guaranteed to be met with a moment of awe.
Aoraki fittingly means “Cloud Piercer” and is sacred in Maori culture, central to several legends and creation stories. All this said, it was the most spectacular place we saw in the country, and being in its presence for a couple nights was well worth the advance planning.
The moment we met, which became all the more enchanting when you tossed the aquamarine Lake Puakaki onto its foreground.
Of course, a beauty like this guarantees we were not the only ones heading in that direction. We haven’t seen a road like this jaw-dropping since Patagonia.
Driving into a wall of Mother Nature’s wonder, to arrive at White Horse Hill Campground, where at least one of us would lay our tent for two nights for $17. The other was ready for something a bit more adventurous.
Naturally, the campground was basically a parking lot, an unfortunate reality of Kiwi tourism, but still, this time we earned a picnic table, and a mountain view so we could enjoy our “refrigerated” options, which had managed to stay chilled enough in the car during our last NZ overnight.
And, as we ate, we had many lurkers, including one who may have suffered some mismatched parts at the duck factory. And to our delight…some bunny rabbits!
That night, we had dinner with new Dutch friend, Dominique, who was just starting her one-year world tour.
Hooker Valley Trek, Mount Cook
It seems that Mandy’s body and intuition was telling her something about their upcoming hiking adventure at Aoraki, Mt Cook, because her 2022 foot pain randomly sprang up about one week prior our arrival. Because of this, she made the reluctant decision to forgo the strenuous trek to Mueller Hut, which we had booked nearly six months prior. However, she refused to let this obstinate fear-generated pain handicap keep her from completing one of most famously majestic tracks in New Zealand…Hooker Valley.
Instead, she focused on going slow, going inward, and giving the pain a powerful pep talk to persevere through the four hour jaunt to the base of the prominent snow-dusted peak, set behind a swoon worthy sea green glacial lake. And by the next day? The pain was gone.
The 10 k (6.2 mile) Hooker Valley Track is mostly flat, which makes it relatively easy for most people. We were also grateful to have simply idyllic day. It’s renowned for its stunning alpine scenery, including glaciers, rivers, and panoramic views of the country’s highest peak at 12,218 feet (3724 meters).
Throughout the hike there is plenty of bursting alpine flowers and native vegetation to admire as well.
Make sure to wear a hat and some sunscreen because there is little shade and the summer sun, at least, can get pretty intense.
As we would later learn from the visitor center, with its challenging terrain and unpredictable weather, Mount Cook has a storied mountaineering history. It was first successfully summited in 1894 and later conquered by Sir Edmund Hillary in 1948, who would become the first mountaineer to summit Everest.
When we arrived to the glacial lake, there were plenty of people lying out on the “beach” and a couple of boneheads who were plunging in the glacial waters to try and lift up icebergs for anyone who would watch them on their social media feeds.
We preferred to enjoy some snacks and soak in the view instead.
One of three suspension bridges you have to traverse along the hike. The bouncing felt extreme, particularly for the one of us who was working through foot pain.
Greg’s very happy place. Also, a memorial for those adventurers who died in the park, including 80 climbers who’ve lost their lives on Mt Cook. Most recently in December 2024, two Americans and a Canadian went missing during an ascent. Despite search efforts, they are presumed to have died from a fall. While camping at White Horse Campground, we heard at least a dozen avalanches ourselves. It’s hard to believe something so beautiful can be so lethal.
Day 4: Mount Cook to Waihi Gorge
After a harrowing hike for Greg, and a relaxing recovery day for Mandy, from Mount Cook, we continued driving eastward en route to Christchurch. On this day, we would admire some more sparkling views of New Zealand’s mesmerising lakes, indulge in our one and only meal out in New Zealand (fish and chips of course!), and have a splurge in some steam in the hot springs.
The hypnotic turquoise color provides a dramatic foreground for Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park within the Southern Alps. The lake gets its vivid blue color from glacial flour, which is fine particles of rock ground up by glaciers and suspended in the water.
It’s one of three parallel glacial alpine lakes in the area along with Tekapo and Ohau. And in our opinion, the prettiest, thanks to the backdrop, and lack of crowds. This photo was taken from the south end of the lake where there is a lovely shore walk, as well as a campground, which works so long as you have a self-contained motor home.
A pause at an adventure depot where you can sign up for heliskiing, another adventure sport which involves being flown by expert guides on a helicopter to remote, untouched mountain terrain to ski or snowboard on off-trail, powder-covered slopes. Sounds extreme, but truly incredible!
We did not have thousands of dollars, or the sheer desire to commit such a feat, and Greg was a bit sore from his own adventuring, so instead we slipped over to “The Better Batter” on Lake Tekapo, for a well-deserved portion of some fish and chips, which set us back $10.80 for a hefty shareable portion. It was not a horrible place to enjoy the view. Lake Tekapo was nice, but once we drove until the main village, we realised it was far too pretentious for our taste. A bit Lake Tahoe-y.
However, we did enjoy a one-hour soak at Tekapo Springs for a whopping $45, including a locker rental. It was blissful, especially for Greg who had some very weary muscles after his odyssey the day before to Mueller Hut.
Filling up our gas at the completely personless service stations. This still feels so weird to us. What if there’s an issue?!
Our campsite at Waihi Gorge, which was peculiarly named since we never actually found a gorge anywhere nearby. Like many NZ campsites, it was an open field where we could plop down anywhere for the overpriced rate of $11.20. Many people were clearly set up for the long haul. The creek that ran nearby was lovely…perhaps it turned into a gorge somewhere down the inaccessible line?!
Day 5: Waihi “Gorge” to Peel Forest
Our NZ roadie journeyed on with a stop in the Canterbury region’s picturesque town of Geraldine, which is touted in many NZ blogs and guidebooks. It’s located about 140 kilometers south of Christchurch and wedged between the Orari and Hae Hae Te Moana Rivers with yet another eye catching alpine backdrop. Another stop was at the Peel Forest Park where we did a couple of hikes amongst the most lush forest we’d seen yet in the country. Definitely a favorite spot!
The streetscape of downtown Geraldine, which dates back to 1854. The town was initially called Talbot Forest, later renamed Fitzgerald, and finally Geraldine, reflecting the family name of Edward Fitzgerald, Canterbury’s first superintendent. Geraldine has lots of interesting tourist draws including galleries, boutiques, and a Cheese Factory with beaucoup de samples. Unfortunately, we were not traveling with any type of refrigeration so our cheese holes would remain only tempted by the offerings.
The adorable Town Board Office today is the Geraldine Museum. There are also a lot of places to get your merino wool! And maybe a wee bit cheaper than Queenstown?
When in New Zealand on a hot summer day, don’t forgot your jandals, so you can jump in your car for some kiwi-flavored wine coolers at the drive through liquor store.
The biker crowd in Geraldine seemed to like keeping it classier at the Village Inn.
The Military Museum of Geraldine helped us learn some of the many countries New Zealand has surprisingly been involved with in war with including East Timor, Iraq, Borneo, Armenia, and Vietnam. Much of this was due to its alliance with the British Empire.
A peculiar hop forest lying on the edge of the river in Geraldine. Craft beer should be far cheaper here! In the park also near the river while we had our picnic was another peculiarity…this sign.
“Effective control” apparently did not apply to a couple who had literally 13 terriers gallivanting freely down by the river barking their yappy tails off at other dogs…and dog owners…who were all following the posted rules. Seriously?!
Arriving to the Peel Forest Park Scenic Reserve, we were elated to finally find some big trees in a protected environment. Tragically, believe it or not, there is not an abundance of them at all in the country. It seems much of the land has been cleared for livestock.
And the trails, all accessible from our campsite, were just lovely, including the one to Acland Falls. In the second photo above, this tree has lived here for 1000 years and is now 31 metres tall and 8.4 metres around its trunk. Ahhh! Now this is more like the New Zealand we expected!!
These giant trees are called Totara, and feature royal red wood, which to the Maori, is a sign of high rank. War canoes capable of holding 100 warriors were made from a single trunk.
As usual, our campsite for $22 a night offered no picnic table so we sat in the grass with our wine and dinner. For that much money, however, we were at least able to take showers and have internet.
Day 6: Peel Forest to Waipara
Castle Hill
Ambling amongst the otherworldly and striking limestone jungle known as Castle Hill is one of the many astonishing wonderlands the South Island beholds. The landscape features dramatic formations which were originally ancient marine sediments and have eroded into a distinctive karst terrain. Though the otherworldly landscape appears to be a scene from the Middle-earth in “Lord of the Rings,” it was surprisingly not this movie but “The Chronicles of Narnia” which procured its cinematic claim to fame. We also arrived when the weather began to turn, which gave it an even more mystical and inviting aura.
The area is also free and easy to explore thanks to 1.4 kilometer track which leads up into the impressive limestone formations adjacent to open pastures. It was formally known as the Kura Tawhiti Conservation area, and holds deep spiritual significance for the Ngai Tahu Iwi tribe and its name translates to “the treasure from a distant land,” which reflects ancestral connections and traditional stories tied to the land.
It has a way of making you feel really small. According to an informational sign, if we had been standing near this rock arch 30 million years ago, we would have been underwater. The limestone outcrops were formed from shells that accumulated on the seafloor and were then compressed over many years – until the collision of tectonic plates pushed these mountain ranges up and exposed the limestone rock. Over time, rain, wind and groundwater eroded the rock, leaving the landscape littered with these boulders, and the odd shark tooth.
And, if we were standing here 700 years ago, we might have witnessed a battle between two giant, and now extinct, birds, which sound far more intimidating than the one that lives on Sesame Street.
One was the Pouakai, or Haast’s eagle, which is the largest eagle in history, with a 3-metre wingspan and powerful, tiger-like talons. It used these talons to hunt flightless Moa, which weighed up to an impressive 240 kg (530 pounds). Imagine seeing this giant eagle swooping down at speeds of 80 km/hour to send its talons through the hip bone of a moa!
As you can imagine, the first tribes to hunt Moa in this area also had to contend with the threat from Pouakai. When moa numbers began to decline, pouakai also targeted humans as prey, attacking and killing both children and adults. To escape this threat, the Iwi learned how to snare Pouakai and kill it, which of course led to its extinction as well. The second photo is an iconic remain from the Iwi tribe. There was no explanation as to what this was used for. What a fascinating place.
By this point, our plan was to head to Arthur’s Pass National Park to tent camp and do some hiking, but unfortunately, the skies became much more ominous, which was a problem in addition to the massive amounts of sandflies, which were so thick they got stuck to the inside of the windshield.
So…we could either face the ailments that were coming our was by spending the entire day or night in the car or come up with another plan….Because…God knows this doesn’t mean you’ll actually even get a picnic table. Haha.
Waipara Sleepers Train Accommodation
With the New Zealand rains finally pissing down in the most persistent way possible, it seemed like the weather gods were finally sticking their tongues out at us. So…we had two choices…Tent camp in the soggy rain, or come up with an alternative. Normally, we probably would have stuck it out, but Mandy wasn’t feeling well and those two realities combined made looking for an indoor option all the more attractive.
This is how we ended up at the $60/night budget-friendly historic train motel called Waipara Sleepers, which ended up being our favorite accommodation in New Zealand….AND was a super snug place to wait out the rain. In the early 1990s, four of these 1940s decommissioned rail cars were transported from Christchurch to Waipara and carefully restored. They are nestled in a quiet field off the main road north from Christchurch, which was sprinkled with the scent of lavender.
There are several sleeping options including the double wagon, twin wagon, bunk wagon and railway hut, starting at about $35 USD.
We sprang for the double wagon which featured a full “living area” which was super cozy to “watch the world go by” as we drank our New Zealand wine and curled up peacefully with our tablets. Complete with a kettle and tiny fridge, it felt pretty luxurious, dry and bug-free after sleeping in a tent for over a week.
The bedroom featured a table and vintage bed…with a vintage marshmallowed sleeping experience to match it. Yes, our tent air mattress was much preferred. Where are we off to now?!
There were many features that reminded us that we were in a train…including a sliding side cargo door with an attached patio, which unfortunately had to remain unused…
…a teeny tiny sink, and originally railway fixtures embedded into the floor.
There were also some really nice touches like hot water bottles, and a hotel kitchen, which was fittingly constructed inside an old railway station.
It was bedecked with prayer flags, lots of freebie food that others had left behind, ample cooking space and equipment, and maybe the best red retro table we’ve ever seen. We had one of these in Portland, but it didn’t boast the fire engine facade. There was also a “TV carriage” for watching movies or chilling out.
Wow…such an adorable place! All Aboard!!!
Day 7: Waipara to Godley Head
A Visit to Lyttleton Harbour
Fortunately, the day’s weather was looking a bit more promising when we woke up the day following the train stay, so we decided to check out the peninsular areas east of Christchurch before heading to our last evening of (tent) camping. This included perusing the iconic small port town of Lyttleton, and the revitalised and repurposed Tannery complex.
Lyttleton lies about 12 kilometers southeast of Christchurch, which is the biggest city on the South Island, and is historically significant as the gateway for early European settlers heading to the Canterbury Plains. The first four ships with settlers from England arrived here in 1850, and today has cruise ship passengers who are instead letting their buffets settle as they spill into the port’s normally quiet streets.
Blanketed with aquamarine water and edged with brightly swathed shipping containers, the deep water Lyttleton Harbour is absolutely fetching.
The town still has many 19th-century buildings and a strong sense of its maritime heritage. One such building, towering high on a hill, is the 1876 Lyttleton Timeball Station, which is a restored time-signalling device…one of a few of its kind in the world.
Timeballs are historic devices used to help ships keep accurate time. Before radio signals and GPS, sailors needed precise time to calculate longitude while at sea. Timeballs would drop at exactly 1:00 pm each day, allowing ships in the harbour to set their chronometers accurately.
Unfortunately, it was almost completely destroyed in the 2011 earthquakes. Fortunately, it was deemed of national historic importance and was fully restored by 2018.
Today, the historic core of Lyttleton has a bohemian and artsy vibe filled with art galleries, music venues, quirky cafes, and a vibrant Saturday Farmer’s Market.
We love how history and modern “Coffee Culture” have melded in this town. Barney…the Lyttleton Town Piano will play a tune if you drop a coin in its “feed me” hole.
They have several unique sculptures on the street as well, including this “Sled Dog” which celebrates the contribution of Lyttleton to exploration in the Southern Ocean and Antarctica. You know it’s a bit hippie when there’s a Shroom Room Cafe….
Eggs….$7.99 (NZ) a dozen, or about $4.75. Grocery prices in NZ were mostly en par with the US. But, the craft beer selection was definitely more at about $10-13 USD for a six pack.
After Lyttleton, we stopped by the Tannery, which was once a historic industrial site housing the Woolston Tanneries in the 1870s. In case you’re unaware, a tannery is a place where animal hides were processed and transformed into leather.
Today it hosts over 60 boutique shops, probably some selling leather, and restaurants amongst some stunning Victorian-inspired architecture, including an inviting glass-roofed atrium…
….and a really unique apothecary, where we wandered and considered buying herby-teas until we became concerned that they might disappear at customs.
Even the bathrooms were gorgeous, with adorable little push buttons to flush!
Stopping in a park, we had lunch. Just an observation….there are tons of oak trees in New Zealand, resulting in TONS of acorns on the ground. It, alongside Australia, is one of the only places on earth we’ve been that doesn’t seem to have chubby cheeked squirrels to scoop them up. We would miss that if we lived in NZ…
Godley Head WW2 Site & Campground
For our last night of tent camping, we settled in at a unique Department of Conversation site at Awaroa or Godley Head, which is perched upon an oceanside cliff east of Christchurch. It was once the scene of a military defense operation during World War 2 to protect the port of Lyttleton from enemy warship attack and provide a safe haven for shipping. During its peak year of 1942, over 400 personnel manned the battery, while total numbers to run the entire operation exceeded 1000.
Members of the New Zealand Army and Navy were based here, including 150 women of the Women’s Auxiliary Army Corps. Not one round of ammo was ever fired, by any gun on Godley Head, at a true enemy of the nation. Yet, the guns, and their crews were an insurance policy against raiding and assault that the government of the day determined was an essential investment.
The three gun emplacements, which were once operated by citizen soldiers, still remain to this day, and are bedecked with respectable murals acknowledging their contributions. This one, specifically to the women. At first encouraged to join the war effort, and then conscripted, women were essential to fill the manpower shortages that became evident within a year of war breaking out. The first party of about 80 women arrived in December 1942 and proved to be so capable that by 1943 women had sole charge of many areas of operation. Imagine that.
The Underground Magazine was the alcove where gunners removed any items that could cause a spark, including matches and belt buckles, and for long-term storage.
There was even an escape tunnel, in case the magazine was hit by enemy fire with men trapped inside. The perimeter tunnel was designed to dissipate the shock from nearby hits if the battery was attacked. One of the entrances to the magazine.
It was really quite a sight, considering the oceanside real estate and the swirling storm clouds.
The drive heading up to Godley Head was stunning, but also a bit nerve-wracking, as it was only a one way road, without a lot of pullouts for oncoming traffic.
Entering the reserve, where the views in every direction were just gorgeous.
A watchman’s cottage, which is now available for rental.
Instead, our $16/night site included a pretty sweet view and…a PICNIC TABLE!!! Finally…on our last night of tent camping we were living in luxury! Until the skies opened up….forcing us into the car with some snacks and wine. Fortunately, it left behind this little wonder for our viewing pleasure.
