One of the many reasons we adore Colombia is the abundance of magnificent nature and adventure options. So, after three weeks, we decided we were due some of this very thing. From Guatape, we changed buses in Marinilla and headed two hours east to the little lush haven of Reserva Natural Canon del Rio Claro, an all-inclusive eco hotel tucked into a dramatic marble canyon with a crystalline waterway as your constant companion. They offer stellar activities at rock-bottom prices including some of the best spelunking of our lives. ($7.50/person for a three hour tour.) The two nights we stayed there was a definite splurge at double our normal budget of $80 a night (all meals included), but one that was absolutely well worth it.
SLEEPING IN THE JUNGLE
Nowhere in this part of Colombia uses heaters or air conditioners…except the luxury-style buses which might as well be called ice boxes on wheels and require wearing all the clothes in your bag* (*slight exaggeration.) However, evidently, as we chugged along those two hours east, we also rolled down the Andes from eternal spring temperatures of Guatape to being back in the tropics of Rio Claro. When the bus dropped of us off on the highway conveniently at the edge of the property, it was about a 25-minute walk through beautiful jungle before we got to the reservations area, followed by another 20-minute walk to our room. Needless to say, we were a little toasty in our long-sleeves. But wow, was it gorgeous!
Welcome to our cabana for two nights. There were no doors leading outside but simply a mesh curtain leading out to a balcony overlooking the forest and the river below.
The white noise was unbelievable.
The windows were totally open from the bathroom so it was almost an outdoor shower.
The outside of the cabanas.
One of our meals. It was simple, and buffet style, but amazing for us to have a break on food prep.
ON A WALKABOUT
Beginning our exploration, we checked out the Templo del Tiempo (Temple of Time) a natural millennia old fossil sanctuary for introspection and meditation.
Moving along, we discovered a waterfall emerging from a cave and soon after realized, this is the exit to the caving adventure we were planning to do the next day. Que chévere! (So cool). Not to mention, a bit challenging. ? After exiting, you also had to pull yourself across the river using the pictured rope which wasn’t as easy as it sounds thanks to the current.
Marble is abundant everywhere you look in the area. Notice it peaking out from the sand in the riverbed.
As we continued meandering down the riverside path, we stumbled upon a bean-shaped portal that seemed like it might lead to Eden. Sure enough, it’s so named “La Puerta a Paraíso,” or “the door to paradise.”
And on the other side awaits paradise indeed as the walls of the canyon grow steeper and much more dramatic.
Tranquiló. Tranquilo. Have we mentioned how much Spanish speakers love this word?
Mandy cools off with a quick dip.
We walked to dinner guided by light from only our cell phone flashlight down the 20-minute path. And upon seeing this Maleficent-resembling spider, which was about as big as Greg’s hand, Mandy vowed to never wear flip flops in the jungle at night again. We later found out this is actually a harmless whip scorpion, but despite its name and appearance, it’s neither a scorpion nor a spider. These strange creatures belong to a separate arachnid order called Amblypygi, meaning “blunt rump,” a reference to their lack of tails.
CAVING
Our caving adventure started at the activities station where fortunately, we were able to buy headlamps for $4 since this isn’t something we normally travel with. They also outfitted us with a helmet and life preserver. We were told to not bring cell phones. We violated this recommendation to try and capture some photos and simply double bagged it in a ziploc, eager (?) to test Apple’s claim that our precious lifeline was in fact water resistant. Mandy models the cavern chic line before we began the journey by crossing over the river on a very rickety looking bridge….
And then trekked about a mile in the jungle to get to the cave entrance.
The sacred Ceiba tree is a link to two worlds, at least to the Mayans. They believe the souls of the dead ascend to the top of the trees on their way to heaven…and the roots represent the underworld. It is found is subtropical and tropical regions of the world.
Heading into the cave. Of course, they failed to tell us in advance (or maybe we didn’t understand the rapid Spanish) that the guide would also be taking pictures.
At the beginning of the expedition, the water was only about ankle deep.
You can see the marble walls of the cave. So beautiful. Our first of this kind. Mandy at the cave entrance.
By this point, we were only wet to about our knees. And then slowly, more and more body parts started to submerge in the water. It was around this section of the cave that our guide had us place one hand on the shoulder of the person in front of us, and one hand along the ever-changing wall and then…you guessed it…lights off. We walked cautiously at least 50 feet in the darkness. All you could hear at this point was the water sloshing and the movement of the people around you. What a totally sensory experience, and so much better than in most caves when they only have you turn off the lights and stay still.
And then we got to the slides. Video courtesy of our awesome guide. Of course Mandy is posing.
Just keep your mouth closed when you land. Lol.
An indication of some of the scrambling we had to do. And then the photos stop, (because the phone was plunged into test dummy position.) The creepiest thing about the following portion was the sounds. At one point, while swimming through the water, it sounded like an absolute horror movie of screeching and flitting above us. Not understanding the guide, we assumed it was bats, and when Mandy asked him if it was murciélagos, he told her in more comprehensible Spanish that it was in fact, birds called guacharos. These birds were very large with wing spans of about three feet.
Finally a flash of light appeared up ahead and we had arrived to the opening of the cave…the opening where we would climb down this waterfall using a rope ladder. If you’ve never climbed down a rope ladder with a blast of water smacking your face, it’s not so easy. But it’s crazy fun!
RIVER RAFTING
The next day we went for a tamer activity and went rafting down the river ($10/person). The rapids were only class 1 or 2’s so it was a gentle river but the guide made it really entertaining by making us spin, plunging through waterfalls and intentionally tipping half the raft.
Greg was among one of the unfortunate passengers who went overboard, much to Mandy’s delight.
As we walked back out to the highway to catch our bus back to Medellin, we had one last gift from Rio Claro…an encounter with this massive tarantula adorned in purple on the road. Wow…this country is incredible.
