From Luang Prabang to Vang Vieng
From Luang Prabang, we first headed south to the “adventure capital of Laos”—Vang Vieng. Fortunately(?), thanks to the China-made rail system, this 1.5-hour journey is now a breeze. The thing we’re realizing about China-made systems is, they are reasonably organized. You can also count on them for good security measures, like confiscating your newly bought fruit knife on your way in, and providing a dance show in the middle of the station to satiate the hundreds of oglers.
What you cannot apparently count on is comfortable seats or timely departures. Ours was 25 minutes late. It gave Greg the chance to eat Dairy Queen (a surprising Ameri-perk) and Mandy, the opportunity to play her new game…create positive interactions with Chinese tourists. She scored two out of three. Not bad!
The train station building in Luang Prabang is massive. It’s also shaped like a temple and has three languages on it: Laotian, Chinese and the quite unreadable red-on-red blob of English.
After heading through airport style security, you enter a large hall with Aspara dancers surrounded by a giant crowd of animated movers, shakers and expert smartphone videographers. Uh, we’ll stay back here with our Blizzard, thanks. The crowd seemed to be approximately 80% Chinese, 10% locals and 10% Euros. Fortunately there was a scrolling screen with all 3 languages. We heard from a local the train is typically too expensive for Laotians.
Speaking of cost, unless you enjoy burning cash, make sure to book through the “LCR Ticket” app and not through something like 12GoAsia, which WILL rip you off in Laos. Our tickets cost $11.13 for 2 for “hard” seats, which we confirmed…despite the deceptive looking padding, they earned their name. 🤣 But who cares for 1.5 hours!? Also, note that not all the trains are the high speed bullet trains and we would have saved only 20 minutes by booking one of these. We took a standard train because it’s much cheaper.
The official “check in time” for the train is 20 minutes before the train arrives. At this time, everyone funnels through the ticket check and heads out to the platforms, which are conveniently numbered, to wait some more. No pushing or shoving occurred, though the we did experience some disorganization with our assigned seat numbers on the return to Luang Prabang.
About 25% of the train seemed to disembark at Vang Vieng for some adventure-seeking while the rest carried on toward the capital of Vientiane. From the Vang Vieng station, we hopped into a Lao tuk tuk for 30,000 kip ($1.35) with many backpackers and others who seemed to be regretting their giant roller trollies. The driver dropped us off near the center of the main tourist village and we walked a few minutes to our hotel.
As we checked into Bountang Mountain View Resort, we noticed an easily eight-inch, quite girthy polka-dotted-bellied “gecko” stuck on the window frame. When we commented to the receptionist, he just said, “ah, that’s normal. No problem!”
Our 4th floor hotel room for six nights had the saving grace of a terrific view, lots of sunlight, comfortable beds, a kettle, and a fridge, which based on its name, apparently wanted to join us as a thruple. The room cost $14.23 for the first 5 nights in October and $20 when we rolled into November 1 because…hello high season!
The fantastic views from our balcony, including the neighboring hotel’s open-to-the-street swimming pool which Mandy used regularly to amuse passerby’s because apparently lap swimming is really exciting.
Our $14 a night did include breakfast. We did not say it was good or hot, but it did the job. All in all, a pretty decent and comfortable experience for six nights in a budget hotel.
Life in Vang Vieng
Now let’s talk about Vang Vieng itself. Vang Vieng, now being rebranded as “the adventure capital of Laos,” was in recent years known for being the capital where hedonistic young backpackers go to die. Not because it’s unsafe. That is, unless you’re drinking excessively and combining it with adventure sports, which apparently is what used to happen…quite a bit. But, thanks to the Australian government throwing a rightful tantrum over this issue, things had supposedly changed when we went and it had become a simply more backpacker and adventure-sport friendly, although the crowd still skewed quite young and bikini baring. (Reminder: there’s no beaches in Laos.)
Unfortunately, shortly after our time in Laos in early November 2024 a few young tourists faced untimely deaths after consuming some alcohol with methanol in it, so the bottom line is….be careful what you drink in Vang Vieng.
Other than this disheartening fact, the evolution to make it an “adventure capital” is a very good thing considering the absolutely stunning surroundings including multiple turquoise lagoons, dramatic karst mountains, a magnificent cave system and several hiking trails.
Most of our adventures from Vang Vieng involved renting a motorbike which we’ll get to below. This section is more about a few things we did in and around the easily walkable town during our six night stay.
One of our favorite simple pleasures was gazing at the sunset from a place conveniently marked on Google as “sunset views of mountains” just west of town. With your views, you got the added bonus of bovines, beers, and sky candy.
Sky candy refers to the rainbow plastered hot air balloons which would lift off each evening to sail over the valley. These balloon rides are quite affordable at $110/person for 30 minutes, (we paid $250/each in Cappadocia), but not sure we’d entirely trust the safety standards in Laos. Certainly research your company well if you choose to take flight!
The same goes for the extremely popular paramotors which don’t look too far off from an Orville and Wilbur Wright creation. They run about $100 for 15 minutes and do look quite exhilarating.
Also exhilarating? The sunset view “bar” takes rustic chic to the next level…basically a bunch of pieces of former trees tossed together to form individual drinking huts. Ours had a few pieces missing, but had a critical hammock rather than plastic kid chairs. A wee bit rickety, but the setting was seriously serene. And really what more could we ask for?! Oh yes, a safely sealed BeerLao in our hand.😄
Enjoying the sun go to bed is in fact a regular occurrence that everyone seems to appreciate in Vang Vieng, including a field of motorbikes that come for the nightly show. And far more obnoxious in their noise level, but great for family fun, are the buggies.
Heading back across the bridge. Yes. This is currently the MAIN bridge from one side of Vang Vieng to the other! A bit treacherous by foot…but that’s not the way most people do it. 😳 It’s safe to add “road infrastructure” to the government’s quite long to do list. The next bridge must have had an extra line item in the 2023 budget for some bandages.
The view of Vang Vieng as seen from the river.
The Main Street of Vang Vieng isn’t exactly the charm capsule that is Luang Prabang. It’s dusty and the roads are atrocious, but when you amble your way to the tourist area, it becomes a bit more attractive. But the real stunner of course, in Vang Vieng, is the nature.
The view from our hotel balcony, where we enjoyed many a BeerLao for $1. From up there, we could also see a cluster of traditional houses in the valley below, which were quite a contrast to the hotels and restaurants before them.
Speaking of restaurants, they weren’t bad in Vang Vieng. Plenty of western and local choices. We mostly stuck with local as it was cheaper, healthy and delicious. Meals were usually between $4-8 for both of us. Pictured are Pad See Ew, Tofu summer rolls, “Laos” papaya salad (seems to be the same as Thai), and mushrooms skewers.
But if want it spicy, you almost always have to request it. If they see white people, they make it bland. Oh, another thing you can find is “Happy Menus.” These do not include mediocre hamburgers as you might assume. What they do include is marijuana, often as a pizza topping. We had this several times in Phnom Penh during COVID. We may need it again soon due to a different stress we’re feeling.
Of course this may lead to munchies. Which may lead to eating more. Charcoal ice cream anyone?! 😅
Another day in Vang Vieng comes to a close. What a breathtaking silhouette….
Motorbiking in Vang Vieng: Day One
Ooo…Vang Vieng is truly a little outdoor wonderland!! With the abundance of unique things to do from river floating, to caving, to sky sports, to swimming in turquoise lagoons, it’s hard to know what to pick. As we typically do, we bypassed the tour options and the expensive sky hovering temptations and chose to rent a motorbike for about $5 + $2/gas on two separate days to get our exploring in.
The first day, we bumped and barreled north along the pristine roads, and the second, west. The first day was preferable because we mostly had sites to ourselves which included independently tubing through an underground river, plunging in a gorgeous natural pool, and ambling through an extraordinary cave system where even the jocks might be impressed with the rocks.
The good thing(?) about Laos, like many developing countries, is there are seemingly few safety regulations, or things like liability for these types of activities, so you’re able to go at many on your own, which can be quite exhilarating
…and a a bit hair-raising as well when you hear the flapping above your head.
But some of it is just straight up relaxing.
To get there, head straight up the delightfully dusty main road and make your way toward “underground water cave” on Google. Once you turn off the main road, you’ll meet a bridge where a trolly opportunist has set up shop to extract 10,000 kip ($.45) in order to cross. Interestingly, there is also an inaccessible pedestrian bridge right next to the vehicle bridge.
Mandy poses in her camel, not elephant, pants by the bridge. Not sure if the same troll works that bridge. Arriving to the cave, where they also have zip lining, we discovered we were two of a handful of tourists.
We also discovered one of the most intricate and gargantuan butterflies we’ve ever seen, which is actually called an Asian Luna Moth. Though we couldn’t get a scale shot, it was easily as big as Greg’s hand. Wowsa!
We then reviewed the “cave map” before entering, which explained it was a one-way float of about 400 meters and that we’d be maneuvering ourselves through with the guidance of ropes. After paying less than a $1 to enter the cave, we were provided with headlamps and life vests and directed to the tire tubes, which is a favored transportation apparatus around Vang Vieng. We were glad to have our own super-bright flash light as well. Also: note to self: next time do not wear white into a dirty cave. 🤣
Mandy splashing the tube several times to avoid the baking black rubber before climbing aboard. Finally situated, she heads toward the hole which is comically marked by “HERE THE WATER CAVE.”
And, since no helmets were provided, it’s imperative to glide carefully into what feels like a slightly complicated reentry to the birth canal. Fortunately, the cave soon opens up a bit and it becomes easier to navigate.
But…after these initial beautiful photos, it also metamorphosed to jet black other than the glow of our lamps. The only sounds emitted were from the gentle lapping of the water underneath the tube. There were also parts where it got quite shallow and we had to get off the tube and walk it through.
We only saw two Germans as we moved further into the cave, and on the way out, we floated by a large group of French people who felt the need to yell “no trump!” when we told them our nationality.
After about an hour, we’d made it through! And it was definitely the coolest thing we did while in Vang Vieng. For less than a buck too!! Moving onward we headed about 10 minutes north to pay $.45 to enter Blue Lagoon 4,” which is far less crowded than the more touristed 1-3 variations, although all evidently similar in features.
In fact, there were only three other motorbikes there. Now that’s a swimming hole!!!
Included in the price… more tire tubes, as well as a bit of fish spa when you entered. 🐠 They also had a makeshift zip line, which, after watching a Japanese guy crotch himself with a poorly place rope, we decided was a bit too uh…Laotian…for our tastes. 🤣
But the swimming was stellar, as was the serenity of the surrounding forest. We had been hoping there would be food available, but no such luck. Fortunately, we’d brought nuts to hold us over, until we backtracked to the water cave and grabbed what seemed to be the only lunch available anywhere around…basil chicken, for a quite overpriced price tag…nearly $4/each!
After lunch, we scootered to Hoi Cave, located between Blue Lagoon 4 and the water cave where we surprisingly found not one, but four locals, waiting near the entrance to provide us head lamps and collect another 15,000 kip. ($.69). There is also an option here to visit Loup Cave, which will cost you another $.69. We chose Hoi because of the better reviews on Google. The entrance to Hoi Cave was a small sliver in the earth leading to a flamboyantly pedestaled cave Buddha.
From that point forward, we just got to wander through a quite cool cave without anything hand-holding or restrictions. Within the cave, we found cave ponds, sparkly cave crystals…
…though these shots simply couldn’t capture it, some crickets with some serious darkness guiding headgear…
…and lots of water…which we waded in until it got thigh deep before deciding to turn around and heading the 35 minutes back to the town of Vang Vieng.
Motorbiking in Vang Vieng: Day Two
Our second motorbike tour around Vang Vieng took us up to about 45 minutes west from the town of 25,000 people and, because this is the direction most tours go, was excessively more populated than day one. Still, we did things we wouldn’t want to miss out on like a hike to a stellar viewpoint, followed by a well-deserved plunge in another lagoon, a truly bizarre boat ride, as well as more caves, including one you could swim into.
There are many different viewpoints you can hike up to get an exquisite view of the karst rocks and mountains below. We arrived to Nam Xay at 9 am and had ambitions to do at least one more climb, but after a quite steep and sweaty ascent, decided one was enough. And no, we didn’t bike to get up there. This is simply a conveniently located Insta-prop on the side of the cliff for everyone’s hashtagery fun.
And although it was a more crowded trail, the view was undoubtedly worth it. But wow, we were a soggy mess by the time we clawed our way to the top. These Singaporean ladies we met, however, were still totally adorable.
The trail to the top was more of a 30 minute obstacle course, where in true Laos fashion, they seemed to have just tossed some wood and ropes up the slope and hoped for the best. But the actual jungle gym of the trail made it all the more fun.
However, soaked through, we were more than ready for a refreshing dip at the turquoise hot spot of Blue Lagoon 3, along with lotsa other Euro-looking (aka French) people.
The nice thing that Blue Lagoon 3 had over 4 was lots of shade. And, on the flip side, apparently germs. In fact, we’re pretty sure this is where we picked up the sniffling and coughing curse that would come to plague us for the next couple weeks. 😞 There were also lots of Chinese people. But they seemed to be perched in the shadows with their provided tour noodles.
After a vegetable stir fry lunch of our own, we headed to Phapongkham cave to get away from the crowds. We were greeted by a smiling man who said we were the first customer of the day who sold us our under $.50 entrance, as well as a head lamp. The cave, he then showed us on the map, was actually several caves and they all involved a bit of hiking to get to. This wasn’t really part of the plan because it was 1:30 in the afternoon and was roasting hot.
Still, we managed to make it to one cave where we found an ancient squatting stoic, who unfortunately looked a bit satanic, guarding the entrance.
He warned us to watch our step as we went in the cave because there was a massive Indiana Jones-esque pit into the earth only a few paces onward. Although it was encompassed by a small rope, it was quite pernicious-looking. Continuing on, we saw lots of rock features, including the Dickerson Family, elaborate conglomerations of rock formations, and delicate stalactites.
From this point, we drove back towards town 25 minutes to “Jang Cave,” which you can also access by walking from town. To access Jang Cave, you have to park your bike and take a small boat across the river, which is steered and operated by a 14-year-old kid with a only a pulley line for about $.23 round trip which he collected into a plastic smoothie cup. It was quite an experience. There were several tourists at this site and we noticed not one of them thanked or acknowledged this nice boy who spends his entire days gliding back and forth across the river. 🤨
Walking toward the cave, we found quite a surprise! A not-yet-ripe gak fruit!! When ripe, it turns orange but was the first one we’d seen since Borneo and we’ve been wanting to try it ever since! December is the season so fingers crossed we’ll encounter it elsewhere.
Climbing the seemingly endless steps to the cave. Or, Greg doing that. Mandy sat at the bottom and made friends with an Italian girl who was trying to decide if it was worth it. Greg concluded that despite the heat and intensity of the climb, that yes it was, after seeing massive rooms with stalactite chandeliers and dripping columns.
Mandy, in her no-more-sweat rebellion, did this instead at a small cave at the bottom of the stairs. 😂 There was a consistent flow of water percolating out of the cave which created one of those forever pools where you can just stay in place as you’re swimming into the current. It was actually really fun!
Dinner that day consisted of pizza (which was great) and our first (and last) “Lao Salad” which was a mound of mayo with a few vegetables underneath. No, we didn’t get sick from the mayo or raw veggies. Hygienic practices are pretty good in Laos, like in Thailand.
