Making our Way to Ho Chi Minh
After two weeks of getting sand in crevices and gallivanting a tropical island, we feel reinvigorated to begin our 1025-mile overland adventure of traversing the length of Vietnam! And we started by heading to Saigon, today also known as Ho Chi Minh City since 1975. The day began bright and early with a 1.5 hour ferry ride on the Superdong from the island of Phú Quốc (For the record, Quốc is pronounced like the male chicken) making the last sentence a bit of an giggle inducer for the English speaker and amateur Vietnam traveler. 🤣
We proceeded on the best, most affordable eight-hour bus chariot ever thanks to lounging sleeper seats which is THE way to travel in Vietnam. Oh, it didn’t take long to fall in love with this country…
Arriving to the high speed ferry dock after a 25-minute Grab (like Uber) from our hotel, I (Mandy) was excited to see the Superdong 7 already poised and waiting for us. Unfortunately, a man informed us, we had tickets for the Superdong 5, which was quite a downgrade in the size department. Haha. Ok, ok. I’ll stop. 🤣 It’s just too easy here and I think the Vietnamese people truly embrace it. (In reality, the boats were the same size and cost the same amount of Vietnamese Dong (225,000) or $9/each.)
Arriving in the coastal town of Ha Tien, we walked 17 minutes to the bus station where as usual, locals looked at us like we were bat shit crazy walking in the heat with our backpacks on. We found our bright orange Futa bus waiting to right of the bus station and grabbed a waiting area seat because we’d already purchased online tickets. (420,000 dong for two) or $17, making it less than $1/hour.
In the meantime, we tried to analyze what this lady was selling because like most foods in Vietnam, “Kinh Moi” was deemed untranslatable by Google. Only then…we saw the English on her sign…and figured “sticky rice with coconut” was a safe enough 8-hour bus-without-a-toilet kind of food. Fortunately it was. So, for 10,000 dong or $.40 we sampled what seemed to be a crepe, a layer of pretty purple sweet sticky rice, peanuts, and shaved coconut.
Yay! It was time to board the bus. First order of business after stashing your big bag underneath…off with your shoes! For people that enjoy not wearing shoes for an 8-hour ride, this is a godsend. (We’ll never forget the time we got scolded in Türkiye for removing them.) After popping them in a plastic bag, you can only then sashay down the padded runway. So…hopefully you wore socks like us, unlike 90% of the flip-flopped riders! This is when you realize you’re in bus…PARADISE!
Every single person has a lay down private recliner which allows you to completely stretch out to your fullest potential (though we feel bad for the bigger and taller foreigners who might not fit so comfortably, because we know these seats are perfectly molded for the petite Vietnamese men and ladies.) The seat smartly also has a butt holder so you don’t go slipping and sliding with the bus’s every movement, and a sunken pocket for your (socked) feet and bag at the front. They also provide a blanket, but we’d thought ahead to bring our travel towels, which double as blankies, as well as our Nemo Fillo pillows and layers. Like in Latin America, the buses love to blast their A/C and can quickly turn into a frosty nightmare if ill-prepared.
Although we brought some snacks, we soon learned we didn’t have enough, and that kimchi was as big of a no-no as durian on public transportation. Within moments of opening it, the conductor shot down the aisle with a wrinkled nose and finger wag. (Oops. Duh.) <insert sheepish, apologetic smile.>
So we had to rely on the bus stops and whatever was available. For our first attempt, we bought 4 (fortunately cooked 🤣) sweet potatoes, a texturally pleasing oily sponge cake, and a plastic cup filled with pre-cut rose apples, covered in more plastic. (All for $.40/10,000 dong.)
On the fruit scale, these are comparable to most regular apples…something you only eat because they’re in season…not because the juicy, watery blandness is particularly great. Needless to say, it’s easy to understand why they also provide some tasty spicy salt morsels in…more bonus plastic.
At the next stop, Greg also grabbed his first Banh Mi Sandwich in Vietnam. ($1) Oooo…they do do bread well here. (Merci beaucoup invading French people!)
Mandy was a bit hangry by the time we got to our Airbnb, so we stopped for a fish cake noodle bowl ($1.90). Although it tasted delicious, her stomach was rockin’ and rollin’ all night. Based on this, and a couple other experiences, we think she might be a bit intolerant of MSG. Considering the Vietnamese use a LOT of it, we’re gonna have to move forward a bit more cautiously. Throughout our travels in the country, she learned to began asking for “Khong Ajinomoto” which basically means “No MSG.”
Our route for the day. Total travel time was about 12 hours, door to door.
Exploring Ho Chi Minh City aka, Saigon
Saigón, called Ho Chi Minh City, since 1975, is not really a place many travelers fantasize of going, but often end up there by circumstance because it’s a necessary hub and the largest city in Vietnam at 8.4 million. And with the endless thrum of motorbike traffic, the flashing lights, sleek modern buildings mixed with a hodgepodge of French influence, it feels like one.
It’s sweltering…it’s exhausting…it’s positively pulsing. That said, it’s not a place we fell in love with during our brief three days but certainly a place worth visiting, particularly as an American due to its vast amount of Vietnam (American) War history.
While there, we also checked out some eclectic things to see, sampled some new foods including coffee with egg in it, visited our first Michelin Guide restaurant, and caught up with an old friend.
In 1975, the North of Vietnam won the war and changed the name of Saigon to Ho Chi Minh City, in honour of the prime minister, a revolutionary leader of the communist party whose statue stands before HCMC City Hall. The name change was not voluntary on the part of those living in the South; it was a statement of the North’s success. (Culture Trip.) This is why many people, particularly older ones in the south, still call it Saigon and their national beer among so many other things is named “Saigon.”
A group of local guys grabbing cold drinks on preschool stools to escape the heat of the day.
HCMC and motorbikes go 100% hand in hand. And although there are 7.3 million of them, they are not quite as chaotic and terrifying as we had envisioned before arriving. Perhaps this is because we’ve been to India where they have the same situation, but also toss in relentless honking, as well as wandering cows, chickens and dogs. But in HCMC, the bikes are much calmer and more calculated, and we were surprised how little they use their horns. Don’t get us wrong, it’s still hella intimidating because more often than not, there are no cross walks, or if there are, the cross walks are seemingly recommended guidelines and not laws. So, when you step off the curb, you have to commit to walking at a slow and steady pace across the intersection. Like Moses, you have to believe you will naturally part the sea of bikes coming at you. And fortunately, it works. 😬😅
On the Nguyen Hue Walking Street, you can find The Cafe Apartments, which was once a 1960s dilapidated 9-story apartment block which has gone full-on hipster with converted piles upon piles of trendy cafes, boutique shops, bars and restaurants.
It is unique blend of modern and old world charm and a fantastic concept. We chose the Good Day Cafe, although we’re pretty sure any would be adequate, although of course the higher you go, the better your view…
…and most likely the prices too. We paid an obscene-for-Vietnam $5.50 for an iced milk coffee and egg coffee, but with a helluva view of the silver studded Saigon Sky Deck, and also a quite aged and patina-ed McDonald’s.
Oh yeah, back to that egg coffee. In short, we both thought it was disgusting. Not because of the egg, but because of the gag-worthy amount of sugar. The drink, which we’d read tastes like a meringue or “liquid tiramisu”, is made by beating egg yolks with sugar and condensed milk, then extracting the coffee into the cup, followed by a similar amount of egg cream, or egg yolks which are heated and beaten, or whisked. It was created in 1946 in Hanoi when there was a French Wartime milk shortage and is a considered a “legendary drink” in Vietnam today, according to Taste Atlas.
Yes, Mandy looks like a cross between a tourist and Target employee in front of the grand dragon arches where it’s safe to walk on the pedestrian boulevard.
The city hall and Ho Chi Minh statue by day
Only us white people were crazy enough to be out in the afternoon sun with exposed arms and legs. The few locals are covered from head to toe to avoid getting darker than they already are. The heat index was about 5-7 degrees higher. We would soon realize, however, that this temperature was nothing compared to what we would soon face.
This guy, sleeping at a non-functional metro station entrance, has the right idea. And no, traffic clogged HCMC still does not actually have a metro…yet. Although with the help of Japan, they are working to finish the first line by the end of 2024. It sounds like it’s been a more than 20-year project with many delays so will be interesting to see if that actually happens.
An intersection in District 1, which is usually the district that most travelers stick to, is a giant Carl’s Junior Star. Ha…obviously joking. Saigon became divided into districts under French rule because the arrondissement creators clearly couldn’t handle the lack of organization.
The Ben Thanh Market is a popular market for handicrafts and souvenirs. We walked in a few stalls and felt so harassed that we walked right back out. This place is clearly a tourist trap. If you do stick around, prepare to negotiate or you will get ripped off.
The charming pedestrian alley of Pham Ngu Lao, as well as more street scenes as we walked back towards our apartment. For the record, walking was definitely not a pleasant affair here.
As you stand on the crosswalk getting ignored for 10 minutes, you might also notice that a large majority of the buildings in HCMC are very skinny. This is because owners are taxed based on width, not length or height like in many cities. It creates some interesting architecture.
We did find a favorite healthy and trendy restaurant called Vo Roof that we went to twice. We got two salads, an egg baguette sandwich and two drinks for $11. We later realized we’d overpaid when we came back the second time and got two set lunches with an entree, dessert and drink for $7.
On another occasion, we visited Ben Nghe Street Food, which is clearly white-people approved “safe” street food based on its clientele, hipster nature and double or triple the prices.
While here, in addition to a fair amount of really overpriced beers ($1.66), Greg had a Vietnamese concoction called a Banh Xeo which is like a crispy omelet and pancake rolled into one and stuffed with veggies, pork and shrimp. Mandy had a peanut coconut noodle dish with tofu and veggies. Both were great and cost about $4/each.
It was here we met up with our friend Andy who was traveling in SE Asia for work and we serendipitously crossed paths with. Mandy has known Andy since third grade so it was great to see him again.
A star studded park in district one, as well as a very modern part of HCMC’s skyline included a massive TV billboard that illuminated for at least three blocks. It was pretty impressive.
Andy and Greg share a bro hug. Having been to HCMC multiple times, we were happy to have him give us some pointers on the city….like how to cross the street. 🤣 The Saigon River looks a lot prettier at night when you can’t see all the trash in it.
Mandy darts with relief down Book Street, a quiet alley loaded with bookstores where NO MOTORBIKES ARE ALLOWED. 😅 Maybe we’ll just stay here.
Fortunately, Greg did make sure we had a nice refuge to go home to on the edge of District 4. Our fifth floor lofted Airbnb apartment for $26/night was super quiet and cozy. It even had a couch!! And it even had a great view from the loft where we could SEE lots and hear NOTHING!! Plus, it was fun playing college dorm again….
It’s the little things that make us so happy! 😁
Our first “Michelin Star Restaurant”
Both of us have “visit a Michelin star restaurant” on our 60 by 60 List. So, we were elated to find out that Ho Chi Minh City has options well within our daily budget to not only meet this goal, but to enjoy one of Vietnam’s national dishes…Phở.
But…surprise surprise. We frugal-tons are a bit new to the “Michelin Guide”and didn’t realize that being honored in the guide is not quite the same as being awarded a star when we went to the simple street food establishment, Phở Phượng. In fact, we only realized it upon writing this post. In the meantime, Mandy ate red meat, (which she does very rarely for cultural exceptions) AND we didn’t achieve our goal. 🤪
It cost $2.80 a bowl (an “obscene price for pho, according to one review). 🤣 This pho spot serves up northern styled pho with richer pho spices rather than being sweet like typical southern pho, and undoubtedly sources truly top-notch locally ingredients. Definitely no MSG here!! The food was great, but going to a Michelin-anything restaurant with plastic tables and chairs, with no line, and for less than $8 with two beers was all about the experience for us and we’re glad we did it!!
Cu Chi Tunnels
While in Saigon, we also went on a day trip to Cu Chi Tunnels through the agency Inner Vietnam Travel which was about $16/each and a great way to see it. Below are some photos from the experience. Mandy chose not to write about it for personal reasons, but maybe you’ll find this excerpt in her book one day….
