You can buy an architecturally sound historic property in this region for $20-30k. A night’s stay in a place of your own averages $15-20. The average meal in a restaurant is around $4-8 and includes several courses and a drink. Street food is less than $1. A quality bottle of wine is $2-3. The average train ticket is between $2-4. A bag of fresh, quality produce is less than $5. A jar of quality raw honey is $2-3. 

Add this to the divine cuisine, the rolling mountains, the charming towns and villages, clean water, the friendly locals, the lack of crowds and the ease of transport. Yep, we’re growing more and more smitten for this part of the world. 

Our travels in central Bulgaria took us to Plovdiv, Plachkovtsi for a 12-day housesit, Tryavna, and last fall, to Veliko Tărnovo and Ruse. And to be honest, both times, it was hard to move on because we not only felt like there was so much more to see, but because it just felt…comfortable. 

Our first stop arriving in the narrow gauge train from Bansko was the city of Plovdiv, thought to be one of the oldest cities in Europe. It’s easy to see why pretty little Plovdiv is the 2019 European Capital of Culture. This city, called Philippopolis for most of its existence, has a remarkable history dating back six millennia, a 2000-year old Roman theatre still used for concerts today, and a fantastically preserved and restored medieval core. Most of the architecture is unique and from the National Revival period of Bulgaria’s history (starting late 1700’s) when the country began to form their own identity and regain autonomy from their Ottoman rulers. 

Because we had being growing tired with travel fatigue we opted to splurge on an extra nice one bedroom apartment, and couldn’t believe how lovely it was for $27/night. Well decorated, fully equipped (even a dishwasher and washing machine), English cable TV, balcony and plush furniture. 

Another reason we knew we were getting tired was Mandy started craving a Coke. She hadn’t had one in over 10 years, but it tasted simply divine. 

Damn…this water can dance! The singing fountain of Plovdiv, has a nightly sound and light show which is well worth checking out. It’s tucked within the Tsar Simeon’s Garden which is a landscaping stunner created in 1892 by Swiss landscape architect Lucien Chevalas.

The Ancient Plovdiv Architectural Reserve (aka Old Town) can be wandered for hours. Within it, you’ll see a museum of different historical ages and see ancient buildings adapted to the modern way of life. The intricate detail on each building is like nothing we’ve ever seen. 

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The Hindliyan House Museum was probably the most striking of the Old Town buildings. Built by a team of master craftsmen in 1835, the private residence is a beautiful example of the National Revival Architecture popular among Bulgaria’s merchant class at the time. 

You might notice something else about these pictures. No people. Usually when we get such pictures, it’s at 7 am. This was at 10 am in the morning in August. If that doesn’t summarize Bulgaria’s lack of crowds, we don’t know what would.

More street scenes

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The bell tower of Sveti Konstantin and Elena, one of the oldest churches in Plovdiv, named after Constantine the Great and his mother Elena. It was built in 337 at the sight of an ancient pagan temple in the acropolis on one of the fortified hills. Of course this structure is much newer from the early 1800’s. The frescos are also from the early 1800’s.

Entering another era, we stumbled upon the wonderfully preserved and still used Roman Theatre. In fact, they were even setting up for a concert so we couldn’t enter! It was constructed in the late 1st century AD, probably under the rulership of Emperor Domitian. The theatre can host around 6000 people. This is one of two Roman theatres in town and there is also a Roman stadium under extensive renovation.

Charming little antique stores line the streets

The Ethnographic Museum of Plovdiv is in the former mansion of merchant Argir Kuyumdzhioglu built in 1847.

Mandy tried out the medieval wall and… another historical era… 

Out of Old Town, captivating street art lines the streets of Plovdiv. 

Moving on, we ventured to the village of Pungovitsi (population 18) for a 12-day housesit. Side note: Don’t forget the benefits of traveling for FREE (or getting free pet care on the flip side) with Trusted Housesitters!! It’s only $119 a year, and can be well worth it on the accommodation or pet care savings. Save 25% by using our link.

The home was owned by Sally & Doug, a warm and welcoming British expat couple, who had been working on renovations for their home and nearby future business for about 18 months. Naturally, they were the perfect couple whose brain to pick about starting a new life in Bulgaria. From what we learned, it’s growing more and more tempting. 

On the first day, we experienced a torrential downpour, a power outage and two fuzzy terriers who taught us their preferred method of walking by flopping down in the road for belly rubs. Ah, yes, adapting quickly to the Bulgarian countryside. 

We had more space than we’d had since our mansion in England…not to mention a gym (in their house!) on par with LA Fitness, a pool, views, and decorated rooms which could compete for a spot in Luxury Living magazine.

In short, it was the perfect spot to get caught up and begin recharging our batteries from months and months of continuous travel. 

And here they are. Yes, the cute little teddy bears, Ellie & Peggy Sue. Ellie was subdued, sweet and a bit of a roly-poly and Peggy Sue was the polar opposite…attention-seeking, hyper and vivacious. It was so fun to hang out with these ladies as we usually sit for bigger ones.

The view from our bedroom window. Being this far in the country, the stars were just remarkable at night.

We had so much fun having a stocked kitchen of herbs, appliances and utensils, and a garden. There were also fruit trees everywhere…plums, blackberries and apples galore! Some of the meals Mandy made included Greek salad and chlebicky (Czech open-faced sandwiches).

Greg illustrates the size of the massive table we worked around everyday. We could have used a few friends here (not that the girls weren’t great). With this kind of space, it’s made for entertaining!

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We also got to use these sweet rides to go the 10 minutes into Plachkovtsi, the nearby village. It was here we could pick up essentials that don’t grow in the garden (like beer, bread and chocolate.) The village had a few small markets, one restaurant, and a community pool. Pretty much all we needed!

The walking nearby with the dogs was just lovely, including this panoramic hilltop where we watched the sunset a few times.

If it weren’t for the housesit, the “huge metropolis” of Tryavna (population 9800) would have never been on our radar. But we’re so glad we got the chance to spend the day here for Mandy’s birthday on the peaceful north slopes of the Balkan range. Tryavna is famous for its textile and crafting industry and National Revival architecture and is definitely a gem not to miss in Bulgaria. Check out the reflection in this photo!

Bringing on the last year of Mandy’s thirties with a splurge on traditional cuisine + wine and even Oreo cake. Should be all set in the eating department til she’s 40.

This gorgeous spread fed us for two meals quite easily! The waiter was a bit surprised we ordered so much. At top left, cheese and pepper salad, deep fried Brie, a traditional clay pot baked dish with pork, cheese and veggies, and sizzling veggies in a clay pot. Absolutely delicious. Every bite.

First the coke, now the Oreos. Uh oh. ? Best hunk of dessert we’ve had since Greg’s birthday.

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The beautiful architecture of Tryavna.

Um. Yeah, they don’t make em like they used to. This construction is simply incredible. Look at the way each stick is curved, bent, woven and compacted together with mud and straw. It’s like basket weaving…on a house. This has to be several hundred years old and is still totally functional.

The Ottoman-style bridge in Tryavna. 

Such an idyllic place to spend time. 

Just so you know we’re telling the truth about property prices. This is a restored historic home, two-story, plus basement home, with three bedrooms and FURNISHED for 49,900 Bulgarian Lev or $28,577. Um. Sold?

Waiting for the train back to Plachkovtsi from Tryavna. It was a quick 10 minute ride.

The next night we returned to Tryavna because we were incredibly excited for our schedules to line up to attend a summer festival. (This never happens!) Naturally, when we saw the poster, it was in Bulgarian, but we mistakenly assumed the Saturday evening show would include some nice traditional music and folk dancing. This is what occurred instead ??? 

A Bulgarian pancake filled with honey and walnuts. Mmm.

Before we begin a fall of big travel plans, this month has been a time of relaxing and decompressing. And I guess we decided our village of 18 was too big for us because we sought out a different village…permanent population: 1. Yes, that’s right. After our housesit, we headed to the nearby Yovovski Yetts Mountain Retreat to get off the grid and stop working completely for a few nights. This was the perfect place in the Balkan Mountains to do so. 

A true mountain retreat…cozy cottages, an outdoor kitchen (pictured), nature walks, a mini waterfall, friendly critters, a welcoming host, and even a Finnish sauna. And…just us. No other guests. Highly recommend this experience if you’re searching for some rest and relaxation in nature. 

The outdoor kitchen and community area included a pizza oven, firewood grill, refrigerator, kettle and outdoor sink. 

There was no plumbing in the kitchen. Water for washing was heated in beer bottles in the sunlight and was quite effective. We brought in our groceries but Daniel, the guy who took care of us was very attentive and helpful in sharing kitchen items we didn’t have.

There were lots of friendly critters, including three kittens and three chickens, one which was named Dorothy, which seems like a really funny name for a chicken. No rooster ?

The wonderful yoga platform where they offer yoga workshops. Mandy definitely took advantage of the yoga mats provided for some additional zen.

The cottage we stayed in was very cozy with a double bed room, two twins rooms and a dorm. There is also a fully functional bathroom with plumbing, although we enjoyed the outdoor shower option.

From the community room, looking toward the cottages. 

Just a picturesque little scene in the back yard.

Beautiful nature walks at your doorstep. This village is truly lost in time…abandoned houses being overtaken by nature and forgotten windows to the past are everywhere. Bonus: blackberries and plums galore!!

The small waterfall and plunge pool. A bit cold for us ? but a great place to meditate and unwind.

A Finnish sauna is also nearby! It was a bit warm to use it now but would be amazing in cooler months, as it can get quite cold in the mountains.

The tiny tiny village of Yovovtsi, only has one permanent resident. The nearest village of Plachovitsi is about 10 minutes by car up a very bumpy road for basic supplies.

Abandoned houses begging for life.

And before we move on, a kitty collage, because we can’t resist…