Getting to Chiang Khong from Luang Namtha (Laos)

After three nights in our bamboo bungalow, it was time to board one more mini van for the last adventure of Laos…from Luang Namtha to Huay Xai, Laos to Chiang Khong, Thailand. Would it be more crater covered thoroughfares?  More closed cabin induced motion sickness? Bribes at the border?  In short…it was smooth sailing. Until…Mandy got puked on…

The day began as we got picked up at our hotel in what would be our last Lao tuk tuk. This cost us 50,000 kip each ($2.30) for a private ride which is the exact same price they charged 9 of us for on the way in. Well, that guy made bank. This new guy, arranged by our wonderful host at Phou Lu, was great. He even picked up our bus tickets for us ($13.74 total) and guided us directly to our van.

It was stuffed full of five other backpackers and mostly locals, including this endearing mother/daughter combo, which Mandy befriended immediately. Unfortunately, the little girl must not have liked her too much because she puked on her hair during the journey. In reality, the poor thing just puked and Mandy, her teddy bear and the carpeted rubber shag floor, caught the backsplash. 

Fortunately, the driver pulled over, and we pooled lots of extra tissues to help mom with the clean-up, though the fragrances certainly carried through the rest of the day 😬 At the stop, half the bus, (the humans with the right equipment), also piled out for some roadside relief while the women suffered. 

We then pulled over 30 minutes later for a real toilet, an opportunity to suck in some fresh air, and a chance to buy snacks. While there, we got to save this poor caged bird as well, but splashing some water in his cage and moving him out of the direct sun.

After four hours on a practically silky smooth road (after what we’d endured before🤣), we arrived to the border town of Huay Xai, where we amusingly found buses which where bound for China. Yeah…you don’t see that everyday. From here, we shared yet another overpriced tuk tuk ride with the other Euro-people to the border (about $3 each for a 10-minute ride.) 

Once we got to the border, we easily stamped out of Laos. Then, we all piled into a regular bus which would drive us two kilometers to the Thai immigration office and charge us another $1.82 (40,000 kip/2.) They accepted Laotian Kip or Thai Baht for this exchange but make sure to have something! 

As we crossed the Mekong one last time, we observed as the Laotian flags gave way to the Thai ones, the dusty roads gave way to perfectly paved, and the ragged trash bins evolved to 4-part recycling bins. What a difference a border crossing can make.

Exploring Chiang Khong

Falling back into a land where the roads are in terrific condition, there are 7/11s on every other corner, the buses are organized, and the grocery stores have abundant selection felt a little culturally shocking after our time in Northern Laos. But we must admit, we were ready for some “easy travel” again. Thailand is just a safe space where you can relax. For us, it always has been. 

That said, even the charming border town of Chiang Khong was undoubtedly a worthwhile overnight stop on our way back through. It has a lovely walkway along the Mekong, some trendy bars and restaurants, and on the day we arrived, a significant festival and parade which we serendipitously fell into.

A peaceful temple with intricate and colorful architecture. 

The main drag of Chiang Khong had a bit of charm and coffee shops galore.

The walking/biking path along the Mekong is paved and lengthy, which we walked on for awhile gazing back into Laos. We were unfortunately one day early for the street market.

Fish doing pole dances.

The military men lower the flag by full moon. Thailand ranks #25 in world’s strongest militaries. (Global Firepower.) And of course, you know you’re back in Thailand by the constant reminders of the king.

Our room for the night was quite a shoe box at Sleeping Well Hostel for $14/night. The bed was comfortable, but, contrary to its name, thanks to a radiant street light outside, we did not sleeping well. 

Celebrating the Loy Kratong Festival

Completely serendipitously and unbeknownst to us, we rolled back across the Thai border just in time to take part in the Loy Kratong Festival in the border town of Chiang Khong and following night in Phayao. This colorful and jubilant celebration is one of Thailand’s most beautiful and culturally significant festivals, celebrated annually on the full moon of the 12th lunar month, usually in November…which it just so happened to be. 😃

The name “Loy Krathong” translates to “float a basket,” and the festival is a time for Thais to pay respect to the goddess of water, Phra Mae Khongkha, and to seek forgiveness for using and polluting water resources. It’s a time for profound reflection between humans and nature. 

A traditional krathong is made of banana leaves and flowers. It is believed that floating krathongs on rivers, or waterways, is a way to grant offerings to the river spirits, and the release of the krathong is seen as a symbol to carry away negativity after people have been polluting the rivers.

It’s a lovely gesture, but naturally, not all the consumers or krathong manufacturers seem to get it. There are many, though adorable, that are simply not environmentally friendly. We were told that the colorful styrofoam packing peanuts were biodegradable “fish food” (with a bit of Yellow #5?) But, pretty sure Polly Pocket, soon to graduate to Little Mermaid, is not.

The celebration in Chiang Khong showcased a night parade of dance performances and beauty pageant, aka Noppomas Queen, contest winners. We were lucky to see them setting up for the parade beforehand.

In Chiang Khong, Krathongs bound for Ho Chi Minh down the Mekong, were for sale everywhere for about $1. Radiant lantern displays are also a big part of the celebration. 

A queen and her fan boy, one in a lotus flower throne and a yellow sensation, all captured our eyes.

The parade began at 7:00, which we were able to watch from the balcony of our hostel. It’s quite remarkable how porcelain every single one of these queens look. They desire to be white as much as westerns desire to be bronzed. So warped. For one, crocs definitely complete the look. We admired this down-to-earth choice. 

Each queen also had her own entourage.

In northern Thailand Loy Krathong also coincides with Yi Peng, a festival known for releasing floating lanterns (khom loi) into the sky. Ah, yes…for a well-rounded nature love fest, we must pollute the air and the sea! But they sure are pretty!?

The next evening in Phayao, a chill community sitting on the largest lake in Thailand, we saw similar activities, though they were accompanied by a stunning sunset. And because they were released on a lake the remnants drifted back to the shore, which may be preferred?? 

Where dolls become mermaids. 

Other striking offerings which seem to be all natural. 

More fish food?

The walkway along the lake. All the locals seemed to be out and in a festive mood! It was a wonderful time to be here!

Exploring Phayao: a New Favorite Place in Thailand

Enveloped by mountains and valleys, and including the largest lake in Thailand, Phayao (population 25,000) easily just jumped to one of our favorite places in Thailand. It’s an authentic, enchanting and friendly community that sees few foreign tourists, possesses a chill and tranquil vibe, an idyllic lakeside walking path, an extensive and Christmas bedecked supermarket, and plenty of decent food options, all at affordable prices. We’d go back in a heartbeat. 

When we arrived to the bus station from Chiang Khong at 1:30 in the afternoon, we were pleased to feel the air temperature was still pleasant even with long sleeves. 

After walking 15 minutes, we checked into our hotel at Ratchawong Place where we’d be spending the next four nights($18/night). After many nights doing without a fridge/kettle in Laos, we were also excited to see its return. We also had a bed of appropriate Goldilocks firmness. 

These beds at the weekend night market looked a little more rock-like, which Thailand is well known for.

The Saturday market coincided with the Loy Krathong festival. It included many candy shops. Also worth noticing, the fanned looking lights. These were everywhere in the night markets. There were also quite the fish ball displays!! 

Coke bottles being sold from a wiggle machine which shakes and showcases them endearingly. Not really sure what the shaking does when you decide to open it though. But avocado shakes is what we had in mind! 

Squid on a stick! But, more attractive to us were these artisan yogurt…flasks?

Fish spa! Doing this once in a lifetime ticklefest was more than enough. 

Although the night market was amazing, the best part of Phayao was undoubtedly the sunsets along the lakeside walking path.

Giant lotus flowers definitely made in China. Other things made in China? All of the crashed and burned lanterns we found all over the city the days after the festival. 

Other favorite parts of Phayao was the cat we adopted named “Gud” which we renamed Petunia. 

And finally setting foot in a real supermarket again. And guess what?! It’s Christmas in Thailand!?!

All the meals we had in Phayao were cheap and terrific. We especially liked the vegan restaurant around the corner called Nong Ping’s Not Boring Vegetarian Restaurant where we had green tofu curries, pumpkin curries and noodle dishes for a bit over $1. They were true to their name!

Or…Country Kitchen where we had a coconut shrimp curry and a shrimp herbal salad for $3/each. Or…the best…a “splurge” at the Lake Cafe, where we had kale/shrimp over rice and another, even more delicious, shrimp and kale stalk salad for $8.63 total. And yes, we also snuck in a coconut cream custard dessert and a beer.

And another dessert we shared…a gargantuan chocolate ice cream with sweet bread sundae while encompassed by bovine chic decor. ($2.80)

Traditional Thai clothing popular in this part of the country.

These butterflies were copious in Phayao! And in addition to their yellow and orange shells, on the inside they revealed an additional color burst of royal blue.

Again, you will not forget what the king looks like by the time you leave Thailand. Here, on this arch to nowhere, you also get to grandly see his life’s yearbook.

Massages in the park, which we of course got cat-called for profusely…while they were working on other people. Why yes! I would love to have a massage while you yell “you want massage?” to other people at the same time, babies are crying and kids are screaming as they play football. 🤣

We personally just don’t understand the appeal of public massage, but it’s undeniably one thing that makes Thailand incredibly unique. They even have lay-down options. Again, in the park. I suppose this is a better way to avoid hanging out with the family?! 

Parts of it had a vibe more of SoCal than Thailand.

This Buddha wearing a UFO chandelier, not so much, amongst the quiet streets of Phayao.

On the night before we left, went to the bus station to try and pre-purchase our tickets to Chiang Mai the following day. When we arrived, we were astounded to see, absolutely zero information, including city names, in Latin script. At a bus station! This hardly ever happens…guess we were really off the beaten path. 

Fortunately after asking a few people without success, and standing around looking lost, a nice attendant directed us to the “Green Bus” office on the other side of the station!

Here the woman spoke completely confident English and we were able to buy our tickets for $10/total. Kapoonka!