Exploring Kyrgyzstan's Capital of Bishkek

Exploring Bishkek

From Son-Kul, we journeyed 4 hours back to Kyrgyzstan’s capital in a marshrutka ($7/total) for two additional nights. Bishkek, which has a population of 1 million and is rapidly growing, has some architectural and pleasant leafy green similarities to Almaty, though overall not quite as desirable, in our opinion.

One popular explanation for the name “Bishkek” refers to a churn used to make kumis, which is fermented mare’s milk, a traditional Kyrgyz drink. Another factoid is, during Russian control, it was called Pishpek.

Below are a few snapshots of our short visit to the city…

As alluded to above, fermented drinks are an essential part of the culture in this part of the world. On nearly every street corner in many Kyrgyzstan cities, you will find someone selling multiple options starting about $.25 each for a small cup.

Pictured here:

Maksym: a traditional grain-based drink, slightly fermented, made from barley, millet, wheat, or corn. It’s lightly sour, tangy, and sometimes a bit fizzy. Popular in Kazakhstan & Kyrgyzstan. My favorite!
Chalap: atangy, salty drink made from diluted sour yogurt (ayran), water, and salt. We found it much more intense than ayran.
Kvas: very common in Russia, Ukraine, the Baltics, and other parts of Eastern Europe. Base ingredients are usually made from rye bread (sometimes barley or wheat too). The bread is toasted or baked dark, then soaked in water to create a wort-like base. Greg’s favorite!

This retro UFO-looking building dated from 1976 is a remnant from the Soviet-era circus. To this day, it still houses the city’s more updated circus.

The ravishing square in front of the philharmonic orchestra building is bedazzled with fountains, flowers, another Manas statue and the International University of Bishkek where young students flock to learn in English.

The stunning interior of Bishkek Central Mosque, which was a gift from the Turkish government. This is not a surprise given the look of it.

Always a merry part of travel…a different kind of squirrel!

We were starting a period of super fast travel, so we had better to get used to plain Jane rooms, like the one at Sakura Guesthouse for $20/night with shared bath and kitchen facilities.

Upon arriving to Bishkek, we scoured the streets near the guesthouse for a place to eat and ended up in the very local Dungan (Chinese Muslim) restaurant named Dunganskaya.

When we entered, every table was packed with chatty women, mostly in hijabs, and the only availability was in the men’s area where all the dudes were plopped on the floor surrounded by unassuming mafia-looking curtains mostly sipping tea.

Therefore, thanks to my body parts, the three of us comically got whisked into a back room full of boxes and piles of little kid’s blankets and pillows. 🤣

The menu, translated, of course because don’t expect to find much English! I was so excited to see “Mala Tofu” on the menu because tofu has been difficult to find in this part of the world.

Unfortunately, even the tofu was unexpectedly sprinkled with… meat. It’s been quite difficult to escape here! Still the spiciness and flavor was very appealing!

Not to be confused with the vivacious 1980s clown, another fermented drink we tested was called Bozo. This thicker, mildly alcoholic drink is fermented from millet or corn. Often enjoyed in winter, it’s slightly sweet with a creamy texture. I wasn’t a fan 😝

The lush central walking area of Bishkek called Oak Park where you had to be a bit cautious due to the acorns releasing like unanticipated bird bombs. Of course, you’re a little safer if taking the train. 🤣

The daily souvenir market which grazes the edge of the park near Erkindik Ave. If you’re looking for traditional clothing, funny hats or beautiful ceramics and jewelry, this is the place to go.

Also nearby we found the Kilomete Zero compass embedded into the concrete near the market. According to a review, most capital cities have one of these which signifies the country’s 0 GPS coordinates starting point to measure it to other cities. We’ve never seen another one so not sure about the validity of this claim, but seemed like fun to us! Plus, we’re always up for a cool compass!

An eye-catching government building off the same pleasant walking street.

Also, a “playground” dedicated to nothing but chess from mini to jumbo versions. This is where the city’s chess club meets.

One of the many more statues of Manas throughout the city.

Yes Bishkek has a train station, which goes to a few select places, and yes, it’s absolutely beautiful inside!!

In countries where Islam dominates, it’s common to find the “Red Crescent” instead of the “Red Cross.” Same organization!

For lunch on our day in Bishkek, we sought something besides Kyrgyz food, so we ended up at a quite scrumptious Korean joint called “Chicken Star.” I finally got a pile of un-meated tofu mounded atop a delightful Bibimbap, while Greg got one of the lunch menus which had a terrific mix of Korean street foods. It was so nice to have something different! Naturally it cost more at $14 for the meal.

Striking street art

The Parliament of the Kyrgyz Republic, amusingly called “White House” on Google.

Bishkek’s rendition of a historic and permanent Soviet-style amusement park. These are different than amusement parks we’re used to because anyone can walk in, and opt to ride any ride, anytime they’re open.

This includes mini cars that amusingly drive through…what else? Yurts. And of course, there’s always the option for ice cream.There is no better place to capture a snapshot on the history of Kyrgyzstan than at the well-curated National History Museum in its capital city.

National History Museum

There is no better place to capture a snapshot on the history of Kyrgyzstan than at the well-curated National History Museum in its capital city. Since ancient times, the territory of Kyrgyzstan has been crossed by several main branches of the Great Silk Road. Beginning in the VIlth century, cities sprang up along routes in the Talas and Chui, Fergana valleys, Issyk-Kul and Tien-Shan, and caravanserais and fortresses were built. Cities became centers of trade, crafts, and culture. Roman glass, Chinese silk, bronze mirrors, and porcelain all came into the territory of Kyrgyzstan via the Great Silk Road.

These interconnected thoroughfares not only stimulated trade development, but also promoted the dissemination of new ideas, knowledge, technological discoveries, and religious beliefs, including the spread Zoroastrianism, Buddhism, Christianity, and Islam. The cost to enter was about $2.25/each.

This may be the first Lenin statue we have ever seen, relocated behind the museum. Many of been quietly taken down since Soviet times, like a giant one in Osh.

One of our favorite sections of the museums featured traditional clothes of Kyrgyz people, which embodied the long-term traditions of the material culture of the people. It adapted to the sharply continental climate and was sewn from hides, suede, wool. Later, they used imported fabrics like chintz, silk, velvet, and plush.

Kyrgyz garments also corresponded with the social status, marital status of a person.

Pictured here: Traditional Kyrgyz women’s clothing: turban, dress, camisole, swing-out skirt, high boots from the 19th Century.