Ilha de Paquetá: Off the Beaten Path Rio de Janiero

Ilha de Paqueta: Off the Beaten Path Rio de Janiero

Rio de Janiero is loaded with things to see and do. And in a month, we hardly cracked the shell on its offerings. But we saved the best for last…yes, our most fun day trips and favorite activities in Rio unintentionally occurred on our last few days in the city. Unsurprisingly, they were both adventures we hadn’t read much about in any blogs, didn’t cost much money, and definitely seemed to be more off the tourist path, at least for foreigners.

The first was escaping to the compact island of Paqueta, a blissfully car-free paradise plopped in the middle of Guanabara Bay. The bicycles, the birds, and the breath coming in and out of our lungs were very welcome after nearly a month in the city. The island is only 15 kilometers from Rio, but feels like another planet.

The figure-eight shaped island, which is only about 5 km around, is ringed by the tranquil welcoming sea, resembling a placid lake, and includes phenomenal views of the Serra dos Orgãos (Organ Mountain Range). We especially had our eyes set on the jagged ridge line near the middle of this photo. Hmmm…we might have to find a way to get a bit closer…

There are only about 3,000 residents who get around by bike. Many of them work as fishermen.

Pulling into the magic island of tranquility.

Views of Rio de Janiero from the island. The hunchback peak in the middle is of Christ the Redeemer.

One of the many inviting beaches. Unfortunately, the water in the bay is probably still a bit too polluted for swimming. However, it is turning a corner. The river that surrounds the island of Paquetá is clean and has good water quality, Brazilian media promised, most recently in a report by the Brazilian news agency EBC.

So it must be pricey to get to this little nirvana, yes? Not at all. It costs 8 ríales per person ($1.69) each way for the ferry ride from Praça XV, which is in the center of Rio. The ferry schedule is listed with the weekday schedules at top and the weekend & holiday schedules at the bottom.

But oops. We accidentally went on a Saturday which ended up being more crowded with locals also looking for a peaceful getaway. If we did it again, we’d definitely choose a weekday.

Even still, the massive ferry with a capacity for 2000 passengers was probably only a quarter full. And it was reasonably comfortable with bathrooms, cushioned seats and vendors selling doughy snacks.

When you depart on the ferry, you’ll soon see Fiscal Island, a gaudy castled anomaly that looks like it fell out of Disney. Or, according to “The New York Times’ Marlise Simons the former-Customs House is a ‘preposterous neo-Gothic edifice of green turrets.'” It was undoubtedly a bizarre thing to see on this journey.

Those jagged mountains calling us in the distance.

Where were we anyways?!

Arriving on the island, we could hardly contain our excitement. For us, it reminded us of the day trip we took out to an island near Istanbul. Just a totally different world from where we’d just been.

At last, on the inviting cobbled streets, while many people rushed to rent bicycles, we were more than ready to embrace the sweet bird melodies that instantly filled our ears as we strolled the island’s perimeter.

Speaking of birds (passaros), one very interesting attraction on the island is a Bird Cemetery, which is possibly the only one of its kind in the world. The bird cemetery, also a people cemetery, has services and burials for birds just like people. It was originally a project of Pedro Bruno and Augusto Silva, to express the community’s love for birds and nature, and the freedom of spirit characteristic of the Island.

Another wonderful thing you’ll find on the island? And an abundance of architectural styles and colors in its houses.

We were completely smitten by the dirt streets and the colorful facades. Here is what seemed to be dry-docked boat storage.

A couple of the beaches weren’t quite as inviting as others and featured basically pits of mud instead of powdery sand.

Locals bop around by bikes or other non-motorized wheeled contraptions though we did see a (high-roller) in a golf cart as well.

The island offers quite a few beach-side dining options. Food is simple and inexpensive.

Since you can’t swim, a popular activity instead is to hire a swan for a wild ride.

One of the many restaurants. Also a hotel. We like this hotel idea. The island seems like a wonderful detour from city life.

A parade of cycle carts chugs by. We loved how everyone on this island seemed to be smiling.

Another wide and very enticing beach.

Ready to party. Apparently, the island does do so, but we were a day early. The streets fill with Samba music on Sundays.

A tiny chapel was inaugurated in 1698 called São Roque Chapel.

Forget Rio. We’re moving in.

Baobob trees are not just for Africa! Brazil, at least this hardly discovered island has them as well. Of the 20 on the island, this is a rare and extremely old rendition, which has a circumference of about 23 feet. However, we have to admit, we looked at it quite perplexedly for at least 10 minutes. It looked very little like the baobobs we’d seen in Tanzania.

Anyhow, it is protected by a local preservation order known as “Fat Mary” or “Maria Gorda.” 🤣 I think her eyeball might be hiding beneath some very girthy thighs within the tree.

At least it’s not protected by Snow White, nor her little man friends.

It wouldn’t be an adorable island without some picturesque door photos.

The colors were radiant. Even little pink houses with Ameri-lawns would make John Mellencamp drool.

So many styles and colors! We loved it.

After we did a lap of the island we arrived back to the “bustling” town where you can grab a cycle cart.

We had other things in mind. Like an icy cold Antarctica beer. Really? Antarctica is a national brand in Brazil? Doesn’t sweaty Amazonas have the same quaffable appeal?! Not your best choice, although we did appreciate the $2.30 price tag for such a giant gulp.

And of course, no meal in Brazil is complete without a condiment of farofa. This is the powdery cassava root topping we first had in Manaus. Although fortunately, the quality has improved, but we still haven’t figured out what the big deal is. Our meals, even on a tourist island, were very reasonable compared to Copacabana prices. We received fried fish, rice, beans, and a salad for 26 ríales or $5.50/each.