After spending weeks in the Bulgarian countryside, arriving to Istanbul was an assault on all our senses…in the best way possible. The smells, the tastes, the sounds, the sights, even the lingering heat of the air and the sea breeze, the unbelievably inexpensive prices…all simply divine. We hadn’t been to a city of this size (14.5 million, biggest in Europe) that has left us with a better first impression.

And after five nights, that lusty first impression didn’t fade into the summer glow either. In fact, Istanbul enamored us so wooingly that she easily rocketed to our second favorite European city. (Naturally our bias still keeps Prague in the top spot.)

We suddenly understood why our Turkish friend, Sila, said incredulously to us, “only five days?!” when we told her our timeline. And she was right, Istanbul is packed to the brim with things to gaze at, streets to walk down, and things to stuff in your mouth. At least a week would be well warranted in this endlessly sprawling city where east meets west.

We arrived by bus to the central station and purchased an IstanbulKart to get around the city. It’s similar to London’s Oyster Card with the wee exception that it won’t massacre your wallet. In fact, the price of the card (which is refundable) plus two rides cost (10 Lira) $3.40…one ride on its own cost us $.45. This card, which you simply add credit to, can conveniently be used to ride any form of public transportation (metro, tram, bus or ferry.) In short, this city of millions has it totally figured out when it comes to public transportation.         

The metro was extremely user friendly to get to Taksim Square, and then we waded through a sea of people on Istiklal Street, which would usually drive us mad to bob and weave through with our packs on. But, instead we were just captivated. We later learned this is the busiest pedestrian promenade in Europe and maintains this stream of people 24/7. The initial teasing stimulation of the city was unreal.

It took us no time to find our AirBnb in our chosen Beyoglu neighborhood and be greeted with this swoon-worthy view of the Hagia Sophia and Topkapi Palace from our bedroom window ($22/night.) The fact that it didn’t have A/C didn’t even phase us for a view like this plopped only blocks away from all the action.  

Basilica Cistern

Our first day, first stop was to the Basilica Cistern where we were greeted with a ghostly and serene atmosphere early in the morning. We were some of the first through the door upon it opening at 9 am. (Most people visit this natural air conditioned wonder during the heat of the day!) This cistern was commissioned to be built by Emperor Justinian in 532 underneath the no longer existing basilica, hence the name. Its perfectly symmetric 336 underground columns stand stoically over the remaining water where chubby carps glide by eerily. 

At the back of the cistern is the famous Medusa columns, one balanced in yogi headstand position and one lazily on her side in their watery grave. We took a chance and gazed in her eyes, but fortunately didn’t turn to stone. So why is this Greek malicious figure mysteriously placed here, in a place once covered by 100,000 tons of Constantinople’s drinking water? According to the Smithsonian Magazine, “Several competing theories explain why one of the Medusa heads are sideways at the base of a column and the other is completely upside-down. The heads may have been removed from an ancient building called the Forum of Constantine, where similar ones have been found. While The Guardian writes that the upside-down head is “proof that Byzantine builders saw Roman relics as little more than reusable rubble,” other historians point to the early Christian practice of putting pagan statues upside-down to make a bold statement about their faith.” Whatever the reason, it’s a little bizarre. 

The crying, or tear, column is unique because it looks as though it is wet. It was built for the people who lost their lives during the construction of the cistern. 

Blue Mosque & Hagia Sophia

Sultan Ahmed Mosque, aka the Blue Mosque from 1609, is one of the most visually arresting mosques in the city. 

It’s called blue because of the blue tiles surrounding the walls of interior design. The ceiling of the mosque is striking. Disappointingly, the main dome inside has been completely blanketed for restoration. As the Blue Mosque is still a place of worship, there is a tightly controlled system…one entrance for visitors and one for worshippers. All shoes must be removed and bagged, and women must cover their heads. Anyone who is scantily clad will be asked to cover using the scarves or covering provided by staff.

One of four massive pillars that hold up the central dome inside.

Inside the tomb of Sultan Ahmet I next to the Blue Mosque, a.k.a. the guy who is responsible for the building of this masterpiece.

With its striking vibrant colors, intricate tile work, and marble craftsmanship…the tombs of Sultans are very impressive. Wow!!

The Hippodrome of Constantinople, located next to the Blue Mosque, was once a public arena mainly for chariot races, and other social events. The hippodrome was bedazzled with decorations from across the Roman Empire including this Obelisk of Theodosius, which was somehow hauled from Egypt.

Built by Emperor Justinian of the Roman Empire in a period of 5 years and 10 months, Hagia Sophia was built and rebuilt three times in the same place. It served as a church for 916 years, then a mosque after 1453 following the conquest of Constantinople by Sultan Mehmet the Conquerer. It’s been a museum since 1935.

The mosaics on the ceiling above the Islamic mimbar (pulpit), uncovered in the mid 20th century by restoration work that peeled away the layers of plaster, show the different periods of the structure’s religious history. The most notable one is of Virgin Mary and Baby Jesus, but many have been covered and recovered throughout history. Today, it’s remarkable to see the blending of Christian and Islamic symbols and icons like this.

It seems impossible not to be struck by the humbling immensity of the Hagia Sophia’s truly massive dome…55 meters at its highest (180 feet) and 30 meters (98 feet) in diameter. It’s hard to fathom the construction and sophisticated engineering it took to create something like this 1700 years ago. The brass chandeliers are Ottoman editions. Standing under this dome is just breathtaking!

The 19th-Century medallions display different names of God (Allah) in a swooping and graceful calligraphy. Although beautiful works on their own, to us their placement seemed to detract and contrast stylistically with the surrounding architecture.

Handmade stairs from the 19th century used to clean and restore Hagia Sophia. Keeping up with this facility must be a bit of a challenge! 

The Fountain of Sultan Ahmed III…we think?

The Bazaar District

Need shoes? Go to Shoe Street! Need a toilet? Head to Plumb Place. Want a chandelier? Amble to Lighting Lane. Shop, shop, shop. Trade. Trade. Trade. Buy, buy, buy. Ah, yes the makings of early capitalism go back centuries in Istanbul. Historic bazaars, vibrant street markets and modern day shopping malls, if you want something in this city, you will unquestionably find it. And probably a whole lot more… thankful to be living out of backpack or we might get in trouble!      

You might have thought we’d immediately post pictures of the Grand Bazaar, but for us, the thing we loved most was the simplicity of the commercial neighborhood streets. This one was taken outside of a fabric store.

Ah, the concept of repairing your shoes rather than pitching them for new. For most, it’s sadly a thing of the past.

The Grand Bazaar is the oldest and largest covered market and one of the first shopping malls of the world. Built in 1456, it holds more than 4,000 stores distributed along 64 covered streets, and among them two mosques, four fountains, restaurants, cafes and 22 old gates!

Did we mention that in the Grand Bazaar, someone is always watching you? Indeed, walls of evil eyes. The evil eye amulet is said to ward off evil spirits, or just people with bad intentions, and is used profusely in Turkey as well as other Mediterranean countries.

Authentic Turkish pashminas go for about 25 Lira (less than $5). Less if you’re a skillful bargainista.

Clearly, we (Mandy) follows the rules.

It would be easy to spend hours getting lost on these streets. 

One of the many Turkish rug stores. We were accosted multiple times to buy a rug. Almost every time without fail, we just shrugged and said we don’t have a home and then looking at us curiously, stop harassing us. Mic drop. 

We actually managed to find some quiet little corners of the crazy Grand Bazaar. It’s odd to be reminded you’re ambling down real streets until you encounter hills, dips and sewer vents.

Eek! Wouldn’t want to be that electrician! Greg’s theory is that they just kept adding new wires because they couldn’t find the original wires buried beneath the mound. 

The Spice Bazaar Ottoman-era marketplace sells dried herbs, caviar, nuts, honey, dried fruits, and of course, lokum (Turkish delight.) 

We indeed got lured into a shop with free samples and dropped $9 we wouldn’t have otherwise spent on 6 pieces. These edible souvenirs are a cash cow here so be cautious of how much you’re ordering! They sure are delightful though and makes a fantastic souvenir to take back.

Vividly colored spices dot the aisles at every turn in the Spice Bazaar.

Dervish Performance

We knew we wanted to see a Dervish show while in Istanbul, but obviously wanted to do it on a budget. A good option for us was at the Sirdici Train Station where they hold performances nightly at 7:30 for 70 Lira (about $12.) It includes Turkish tea! 

How DO they do this?! The Istanbul whirling dervishes are one of the most important heritage traditions in Turkish culture. Going back 800 years, the ceremony, which is in seven parts, represents the mystical journey of a man’s spiritual ascent through mind and love to perfection. Highly recommend if you’re in Istanbul. 

The “band” consisted of ancient instruments including the saz, the ney, and the tanbur. 

All aboard the Orient Express! This station was also the termination point for this magical train ride that ran from Paris from 1883 to 1977.

Istanbul has some simply gorgeous parks. This one in the historic center is called Gulhane is also the oldest in Istanbul. It’s incredible landscaping and trees make it perfect for a nap, a picnic and a canoodle. There were lots of happy couples doing just this proving once again that Istanbul is quite progressive for a Islamic majority.

Topkapi Palace, now a museum, served as the main residence and administrative headquarters of the Ottoman sultans in the 15th century.

Prince Islands: Heybeliada

The view of Suleymaniye Mosque from the ferry on the Golden Horn. This 16th Century mosque has one of the most ornate exteriors we saw in Istanbul. 

The public ferry ride swept us to Heybeliada in about 1.25 hours for the price of 10 Lira/$1.70/ticket. What an extremely wonderful value to cross continental waters! It was wonderful to see the diversity of the commuters…clearly this city is very international. Appropriate considering its placement which has served both as a bridge and a barrier from Asia to Europe.

Turkey likes their flags. I mean, they REALLY like their flags…you could entertain a five year old for 20 minutes with a flag counting competition. Mandy teeters under the biggest one we’ve seen. The national flag of Turkey consists of a red field with a white crescent moon and a white five-pointed in the center. The history of the flag dates back to the Ottoman era and includes several flags that incorporate the crescent and star.

As mentioned, the islands are terrifically car-free. Getting around means walking, riding a horse and carriage, or one of the many other whimsical little motorized contraptions. 

Take your pick!

Heybeliada was a perfect choice for us. It had many of its larger neighbor’s pleasures, including narrow beaches, pine forests for strolling, beautiful architecture and villas and a waterfront promenade. There’s also a monastery you can climb to on the hill for even more secluded and lovely views.

Examples of the architecture. Some of it is so surprising to be found in Turkey.

The view of Istanbul from the islands is astounding. It seemingly goes on forever. 

And an interlude….the squat toilet. First time posting. Not first time squatting. The more you use them, the more you wish you would never have to use one again. Yes, yes, there is empirical evidence that elevating your feet during defecation is healthier. It also protects the nerves that control the prostate, bladder, and uterus from becoming stretched and damaged. Okay, this is all fine and dandy for a quaint number two in the privacy of your home. But odds are, we’re usually visiting the public variety, which involves teetering precariously over the hole, trying not to slip on the piss from the person before you, attempting not to get any of your clothing or shoes doused in your own excrement, and then using a bum gun to saturate your bits and pieces when there’s no toilet paper available, all while your thighs are starting to quiver…and not in a good way. Indeed adaptation will take some time on this one. ?

Back to the pretty pictures…

Istanbul is one of the cleanest big cities we’ve ever been in. Every morning the streets in our Beyoglu neighborhood were hosed and we also saw multiple guys hand-rolling these ridiculously giant garbage and recycling bins down the street to tidy up. Talk about tough labor!

Kadiköy Neighborhood

Kadiköy is one of Anatolian (Asian) Istanbul’s most vibrant and bustling residential neighborhoods. It is booming with welcoming restaurants, striking street art, a phenomenal produce market, endless shopping opportunities, friendly felines and canines, and ample places to roam and appreciate.

(August 2022) The historic street car runs from Kadiköy to Moda in a small circular loop. You can ride it using your Istanbulkart, as with all public transportation in the city, and costs about 15 Lira ($.80.) We loved the colorful no parking ball M&M’s that parked themselves next to the tram tracks.

What appears to be a historic building. There weren’t a ton of these so when we saw them they caught our eyes. 

Entering into the Kadiköy Produce Market lies a tray of olives so shiny and colorful they could easily pass as marbles. And, an unbelievable selection and cost. You can easily get an entire kilo (2.2 lbs) of olives for about $3.50.

And all this hand made soap made from herbs, oils, milks and flowers easily under $1 a bar.

And oh the fish!! We had never seen gills flipped out like this. Apparently they do this when selling fresh horse mackerel. 

Istanbul is simply a shopper’s dream. One reason we enjoy being here is stocking up on things we need for a fraction of the cost. We also dream of one day outfitting our Bulgarian home with gorgeous furnishings from Turkey. 

One of the many restaurants in Kadiköy.

And, wow, do they love their rotating meats here.

Moving into the Yeldeğirmeni district, we found lots of impressive street art. Very interested in the meaning behind this one….

Ottoman style buildings abound. 

Caution!! Cats and dogs!!! They are literally every ten footsteps! Told you! ?

An enticing little cafe

The Turkish Food

Our food of choice in Istanbul was the lokantas, cafeteria-style restaurants with heaps of divine Turkish foods to choose for rock bottom prices. We loved going to them because we were able to see and sample such a wide variety of the extremely diverse Turkish cuisine. At about a $1 a plate, we generally ate our meals for about $5 or less for the both of us. Also, tons of vegetarian options!

Our favorite Lokanta, which we went to multiple times.

A Turk’s version of pizza…a pide, pronounced pita. Ours had egg and cheese. Very yummy and filling.

Greg turns into a little boy when he gets fresh squeezed pomegranate juice. Nothing makes him happier.

Vegetarians beware. This dude challenges passerbys to meat sweats.

One of the best things about travel is reuniting with friends. Sila and Mandy were friends, and nearly roommates, in Prague and it was so good to share an amazing meze and raki meal on her home turf and meet her husband.

Don’t think we’ve discovered anywhere else in the world that has better desserts. Mmm…honey….mmm….nuts…mmm….flaky stuff.

We really liked the way they put businesses underneath the Galata Bridge. Why don’t more  cities do this!? Just brilliant!

The energizing neighborhood of Beyoglu (where we stayed) is overflowing with restaurants, shopping, and bars, not to mention street music galore, corn/chestnut vendors and friendly felines. Also, in the middle is Galata Tower, which was built by the Genoese in 1348. This nine-story medieval stone tower remains one of Istanbul’s most striking icons. We opted to bypass the hoards of people collecting at the base of it hearing from others that it was ridiculously overrated to climb.

West Neighborhoods/Balat

The Fatih Mosque, meaning “mosque of the conquerer” was so named in 1463 after the Ottoman Conquest of Istanbul. It was built atop one of the most important Christian churches at the time. For us, it was also the most exquisitely beautiful mosque we saw and it was virtually empty unlike the chaos at Blue Mosque. Don’t go on a Wednesday if you’re looking for quiet though. We’ve heard it’s much more chaotic with the biggest street market in Istanbul just outside! The inside is just stunning.

Strolling the Balat neighborhood, a pragmatic  neighborhood of narrow winding cobbled streets and skittle-like houses, where trendy barber shops and cafes are plopped next to old-school neighborhood grocers and mosques.

Admiring the Greek High School built in 1881.

Kids playing on the street in Balat. In general, kids seem very independent here as with most nearby countries.

It wouldn’t be Turkey without some good old fashioned pummeling, sweating, sloshing, and grunting in a Turkish bath house. We chose to go to Mihrimah Sultan Hamam which is near the Balat neighborhood for an authentic local and cheaper experience. (40 Lira/$6.70) In the center they charge about triple. Decorum demands men and women be separated so Mandy went to her side, and Greg to his. Thus, it was a very different experience for each of us.

A few things we noted:

1. The men’s spa was serene and peaceful, and Greg was adorned with his own napping and changing cabin while Mandy’s was chaotic and bone rattling thanks to squealing children and gabbing women. 
2. It was evident we were no longer in Euroland because almost everyone had some clothes on, although it was fun to see these (mostly) Islamic women letting loose with each other. 
3. There is nothing really appealing about entering a steam pot on a 90-degree August day. 
4. If you choose to, you can have a Turkish massage. When you enter there are various slabs of marble out in the open for this activity where the baking, pounding, twisting and scrubbing happen. (We opted no mostly due to funds and maybe a little pure terror.) 
5. You mostly just sit on a marble bench (because everything is marble), watching the activity and pouring hot, then cold buckets of water on yourself. For Mandy, it wasn’t very exciting. For Greg, he seemed to find some relaxation on the men’s side. 
6. Regardless, we’ll stick with Hungary for our favorite bath house experiences. It’s much better to enjoy it with one another anyhow. 
7. Still, like most things, it’s worth the experience just once.

We love Istanbul! It’s clear to see that one bite of this Turkish Delight is not enough…we’ll be back.

Golden Horn Ferry

(August 2022) Another way to explore the western neighborhoods is to take the Golden Horn Ferry from Üsküdar on the Anatolian side, across the Bosphorus Strait and up the Golden Horn on the European side. It is called the Golden Horn because it’s the most magnificent place in the city to experience the sunset. The hour long tour is available for the ridiculously bargain price of 2.5 Turkish Liras ($.14) with an Istanbulkart and offers some fantastic views of the city’s imperial hilltop mosques city’s, views of historic neighborhoods, and a very relaxing  and comfortable ride. 

Approaching the European side. We couldn’t help but notice the medieval Galeta Tower was packed with people. It’s been nice to explore Istanbul from a lesser touristed perspective this time around. From here, the ferry goes into the Golden Horn and zig zags at stops along the way. You have the option to get off at any stop, but fair warning you’ll have to pay another $.14 to get back on ??

St. Stephen’s Bulgarian Orthodox Church 

Everyone has to disembark at the final stop! We landed in a world full of tourists, but what appeared to be mostly the local variety, flocking to Eyüp Sultan Mosque. This mosque is important because it marks the burial place of Ebu Eyüp el-Ensari, a friend of Muhammad’s, who fell in battle outside the walls of Constantinople in AD 678. His tomb marks Istanbul’s most important Islamic shrine. 

This green space is remarkably all a cemetery!! It holds remains of Muslims who want to be buried near Muhammad’s buddy. We’ve never seen a bigger cemetery. Wow! 

These cute little boats can chug you from one side of the horn to the other. 

The Eyüp neighborhood. We immediately loved it because it was relaxed. No one was hawking products at us, and as usual, everyone was incredibly friendly. 

What appears to be an older mosque, accompanied by a teetering cat, but we didn’t get the name of it. (The cat or the mosque.) Like in most cultures, poor black cats have bad connotations. If people in Turkey see a black cat, they immediately need to hold something black. Otherwise it can bring bad luck.

The entire square of the square near the mosque was white marble. 

Settling in for lunch we noticed the historic photo contrasting the modern day. 

Surprise. More kittens with piles of food everywhere. Affectionate felines in all ranges of cuteness and varieties were practically littering the cemetery next to the mosque. It reminded us of some of the Monkey Temples in Asia but with cats. Unlike the dogs of Istanbul, there doesn’t seem to be a spay/neuter system in place. 

According to a 2017 article in the Economist, Turkey is not unique among predominantly Muslim countries for honouring its cats, which are considered ritually clean animals in Islam. In the hadith, the collected sayings and actions of Muhammad, there are numerous examples of the Prophet’s fondness for cats. By one account, Muhammad cut off his sleeve when he had to rise for prayers so as to not disturb a feline that had curled up on his robe for a nap. In another tale, the pet cat of Abu Hurayrah (literally “father of the kitten”) saved Muhammad from an attack by a deadly serpent. Muhammad purportedly blessed the cat in gratitude, giving cats the ability to always land on their feet. Cats were considered guardians in other respects for the Islamic world: they defended libraries from destruction by mice and may have helped protect city populations from rat-borne plagues. 

The ancient cobblestone streets leading to the Eyüp Sultan Mosque, which was first built in 1458. Some of the personal belongings of Muhammad are preserved in the building that houses the tomb.

Inside the courtyard of the mosque, a giant sycamore tree hangs over the center of the mosque, which features gorgeous tile work. 

Yes, ladies, scarves are considered respectful, and often required, while visiting mosques!

One of the many tombstones. 

People that were a little more important got a much more swanky resting spot. This tomb belongs to Sultan Mehmet Resat, was the 35th Ottoman Sultan.

Istanbul Summary

“Why do we love THIS city?” we’ve been asked of Istanbul. After all, we’re not really “city people” so what is it about this one that makes it different? For us…

Turkey Wrap-Up (not the sandwich)

Time Spent: 22 days

Money Spent: $1067.79 or ~$48.53

Budget Travel Meter*: $$

The upsides of Turkey

• This country has SO much to offer. We only put a small dent in all the options of exploration. 
• The weather. In March, as well as August, it was sunny and bright.
• Access to good, cheap (and often free) produce
• Friendly and welcoming people
• The walking & hiking opportunities
• Ease, comfort, and price of public transportation
• Local cuisine + vegetarian friendly
• Highly walkable cities & towns
• The street cats…the locals take such good care of them!
• Good water
• Fast internet
• The color of the water on the Turquoise Coast
• The fascinating history
• Feels completely safe, even in large cities like Istanbul, late at night
• Nearly everyone speaks a little English
• Clean cities, easy transit, environmentally conscious

The downsides of Turkey

• It’s a big country so everything is very spread out. We were bummed not to be able to make it to Cappadocia and some other notable sites 
• The bureaucracy
• The dogs…clearly not as well treated as the felines
• There are certain places like Pamukkale that are getting overtouristed
• The tourist touts…sometimes they’re a little aggressive in the market

Would we go back? Yes, absolutely. There is still so much to explore.

Budget Travel Meter* The Budget Meter gauges how hard it was for us to stick to our $50/day budget. We’re factoring our Budget Meter by our daily food consumption options.

• $ – Eating-out up to twice a day and ordering whatever the hell we want, with dessert!
• $$—Eating-out once a day in a restaurant of our choice
• $$$—Eating-out once a day, on cheap pizza or local street food meals, usually involving copious amounts of filling bread
• $$$$—Eating-in every meal, healthy/fresh & in-season produce options
• $$$$$—Eating powdered soup & potatoes for every meal.