When we mentioned we were going to Guadalajara, everyone who had ever traveled here emphatically mentioned “you have to check out Tlaquepaque!” We were delighted when we realized our housesit was conveniently located in this adjoining independent city (not just a neighborhood) of Guadalajara.
San Pedro Tlaquepaque (pronounced Tla-Kay-Pok-Eh) is not only fun to say, but incredibly interesting to visit because it is saturated with a distinctly artsy vibe and is packed with galleries, ceramics, pottery and mariachi. Its historic center, which was founded based on its pottery craft, is conveniently located less than 10 kms southeast of Guadalajara. You can access by Uber or public transport.
Our tummies were ready for lunch so as we often do, we headed toward the local market, Mercado Benito Juarez to indulge in what is usually the most authentic and cheapest food anywhere. This includes the price of the produce…and check out the size of these strawberries! It’s like a whole family of strawberries decided to shack up within one!
Produce is priced per kilo (more than double a pound). These carrots, for example, are 12 pesos per kilo which is the equivalent of $.60 for 2.2 lbs.
Lunch was more difficult to decide upon because when you get to the dining section, the number of options always feel overwhelmingly delicious. We decided on La Pozoleria, because Greg was eager to try Pozole. By the way, anytime you add “eria” to the end of a word, it translates to “place where they make,” which they use for everything! You will also find abundant tortillerias, pastelerias, carnicerias, or cervezarias in Spanish-speaking countries.
Pozole is a traditional soup or stew from Central Mexico made from hominy with meat and can be garnished with shredded lettuce, chile peppers, onions radishes, avocado, salsa and limes. It originates from the Nahuatl time period and, like a lot of Mexican cuisine, is pre-Hispanic in origin. In fact, even the Spanish conquistadors wrote about it! It was considered a sacred dish only eaten during special meals, which some people still do today. A slightly gruesome claim from pozole’s history is that it was supposedly once made with the human flesh of sacrificed prisoners. Pork was later used as a replacement because of its striking similarity in taste to human meat. (Culture Trip.) Uhhh…we can’t verify, but Greg definitely thought it was pretty tasty for $30 pesos ($1.50).
While Greg devoured the human, Mandy indulged in her first sopes, which like a lot of Mexican food, is weirdly served with a cuchara (spoon.) The base of a sope is made from a circle of fried masa (ground maize soaked in lime with pinched sides.) It’s then topped with refried beans, cheese, lettuce, onions and salsa. This plate of deliciousness was $40 pesos or $2. I don’t think we’ve ever been in such an unhealthy travel destination, but OMG, it is divine!!
After stuffing ourselves, we headed up to the third floor of the Mercado to check out the artisanal crafts, which is well worth doing.
It’s a good thing we keep our houses on our backs or we would have been in trouble. The pottery is simply irresistible.
As we headed into the main historic pedestrian drag of Tlaquepaque called Calle Independencia, as with most places here, we got our temperatures checked and were given mandatory sanitizer. Funnily, we also got to walk through a human car wash of sanitizer. ? God knows how many chemicals we ingested, but at least they’re covering their bases!
The beautiful Christmas tree at the entrance.
This little elf hung out underneath and we couldn’t resist snapping her photo.
The central plaza’s gazebo
Our Lady of Solitude Sanctuary is undeniably elegant.
And now the art begins….
What a friendly welcoming committee ? She’s like Big Boy’s Mexican mistress.
And the vibrant welcoming sign.
A jolly and striking brand new statue which demonstrates the long history of artisanal crafts-people from this area.
Tlaquepaque bursts with shopping opportunities to decorate your home or body.
And check out the sales girls!!
So many wonderful spots to grab a coffee, or pull up a chair and write a book…
The Museo Regional de la Cerámica, free, in an old colonial house is definitely worth a stop. Even the trees are decorated. Now….what they need here is a really good yarn bomber…
Inside the museum, you can find some beautiful ceramic and tile work.
Calle Indepencia is absolute eye Candy. Like a mini eclectic Disney World.
We weren’t thrilled to see these, however. Stuffed inside these teeny tiny cages were allegedly psychic birds who pulled fortunes out of a box for $10 pesos ($.50).
Day of the Dead inspired decor.
And we couldn’t leave out the gourmet candy shops. And for an insanely inexpensive price tag. Even in a “touristy” area, most bags/pieces were sold for about $8-$40 pesos. ($.40-$2)
So colorful!
Greg gets a ride on a piece by Sergio Bustamante. Not sure if the weight is equally distributed…
What a happy tree! We’re happy as well, to have spent the day in Tlaquepaque.