We probably never would have landed in Guadalajara if our housesit hadn’t taken us there. As many know, we often try to steer clear of cities in favor of more tranquil, picturesque and these days, less COVID-y locations. But we were happy to have an excuse to hit the ground to explore Mexico’s second biggest city. From our housesit in Tlaquepaque, it was about a 45-minute jaunt into the city via foot, then bus to the end of the ride line at Periférico Sur, then metro costing 19 pesos each (about $1.) People seemed to be abiding by the mask policies.
City Center
The Instagrammy sign welcoming you to the city in the middle of the main plaza. It required a bit of patience to get a shot without people draped all over it.
The Guadalajara Cathedral is undoubtedly the city’s most captivating landmark with iconic neo-gothic towers. It was built in 1561 so it’s almost as old as the city itself.
Everywhere we went, we kept seeing signs advertising tacos and lonches. We pondered, was lonches just a Spanglified way of saying lunch?! ? So, we had to find out. Turns out, they are indeed a meal or snack typically offered at midday. Once more commonly called “tacos de pan” (bread tacos), they are oblong, quick-fried bolillo rolls that are cut open from the top and stuffed with lightly seasoned ground beef or other taco meat (we had chicken), tomato, onions, lettuce, and a mound of crumbled cheese. So basically, we concluded…it’s a sandwich.
The poinsettias are abundant in Guadalajara, as are the calandria (carriage) rides offers. As you can imagine, there’s not a ton of tourists filling those up lately. They cost $200 pesos for 1/2 hour ($10) which is certainly more reasonable than when we paid double for this in Cartagena.
Fortunately, we’d already checked this off our bucket list, so Cinderella will have to head to the ball without us.
Santa, who is charmingly called Papa Noel in Mexico, was also looking half sedated as he waited for us. We found it hilarious that there were at least 10 different Santa set-ups surrounding the cathedral. I mean, exactly how do you explain this one to Los ninos?
We continued to amble around the streets by the main plaza. We saw the customary street food carts, vivid flowers, ray-ban seller extraordinaries and also what seemed to be hundreds and hundreds of dress shops made exclusively for Disney princesses. Or 15-year-old ones like they produce in Mexico. Ah yes, the Quinceanera, which traditionally showcased a girl’s purity and readiness to enter into marriage. Today, it’s more the ultimate coming of age blowout party of Latin America. The customs highlight God, family, friends, music, food, and dance. The dress, like for weddings, plays a lead role for the guest of honor and is traditionally pastel or white, but now it’s common to have them in bold colors of even red velour and fur for Christmas. Girls’ families can spend anywhere from $250-$1000 for these dresses. Well, at least they’re not getting new cars like in the States! Driving age is 18 in Mexico.
Passing cars like this in this setting took Mandy back to Cuba.
Heading down to the charming streets near Birriería las 9 Esquinas, which was a restaurant emphatically recommended to us by our host, as well as guidebook. We started hearing the Mariachi music before we even got to the restaurant. Mariachi music originates in Jalisco from as early as the late 18th century and the sound of it is widespread on the streets. It’s considered of the country people, it celebrates their struggles, joys and growth of the people. Some groups plop down at restaurants, but most are a bit more nomadic as they work for tips.
The restaurant looks like a typical US version of a Mexican restaurant, but they have a dish that most US restaurants do not…Birria, which Greg had been chomping at the bit to try. Birria is a traditional, slow-cooked goat stew originating from the Mexican state of Jalisco. Colloquially, birria means mess, used in context to refer to anything of inferior quality, indicating the working-class origins of this humble dish. The slow-cooking method ensures that the meat is extremely tender. Other ingredients in the stew include roasted chili peppers, garlic, cumin, bay leaves, and thyme. On street stands, known as birrierias, birria is served only in the mornings, since it has a reputation of being a great hangover cure. (Taste Atlas)
Wow, probably one of the most striking and thought provoking pieces of street art we’ve seen. Hmmm…what is HE thinking?
Feliz Navidad!
The Guadalajara coat of arms…a bronze sculpture depicting two climbing lions, facing each other, posing their front paws on pine tree, as a sign of victory.
We tried to go to the Cultural Institute Cabanas, which is an 1800’s hospital complex now filled with modernist frescoes by Jose Clemente Orozco. Unfortunately it was closed for New Year’s Eve (not COVID!)
Mercado Libertad, Guadalajara’s main central indoor market, is absolutely massive and sprawling. There have to be thousands and thousands of stalls. As always, to get in this market, we got our temperatures checked and sanitized.
COVID, Mexican style.
Here is one of the produce vendors. We hadn’t seen this many options in Mexico yet. Mmmm.
And the food vendor section. Overwhelmed with options, many of which surprisingly included sushi. We were interested to find out that Guadalajara includes a large number of Japanese Mexicans, most who ended up here during World War II.
Mandy settled on chili rellenos stuffed with cheese. ($40 pesos or $2)
Americana Barrio
On a different day, we wandered down to the Americana Barrio of Guadalajara and for the first time while here…we found the gringos. ? True to its name, this neighborhood is pebbled with white expats, as well as hipster cafes, trendy bicycle shops, breweries, and eccentric and radiant street art. It felt like a little Portland within this city of 1.5 million people.
However, Portland it is not because there is abundant sunshine…everyday! Walking here just makes you wanna sing and dance in the streets! And there’s definitely no rain!
Ah, and of course a Chihuahua. Little dogs, including the notorious Mexican pocket sized variety, run the show in Mexico!
It wouldn’t be Mexico without colorful doors!
Even the shuttered cafes looked welcoming and fun!
Love this! Every Sunday they block off one their main neighborhood drags for bicycle traffic only.
We headed straight for the main cathedral, Templo Expiatorio del Santísimo Sacramento, because we had read they host a street market every Sunday in front of it. The stalls and vendors were very scarce however. We thought it was because of the time of day, but even when we returned at 5 pm, it was still empty. Looks like COVID has taken a toll on this market. Really beautiful church, however. We found the blue clock face a bit out of place.
Surprisingly this very European gothic style cathedral was built in the early 20th century, not 1700’s as you may have expected.
The street art, as mentioned, is detailed and vibrant.
Some a little less nice than others!! ?
Many optical illusions embedded in this one.
There are so many adorable cafes in this neighborhood so it was difficult to decide where to eat. We settled on the Tortugas Ninja because a) they had ahogadas, a dish we’d been dying to try b) the reviews were phenomenal c) it was empty and d) they had vegetarian options for Mandy (she’s been struggling a bit!). Plus, who doesn’t love the Ninja Turtles?!
We both wanted ahogadas, which is a regional specialty of Cental Mexico. A sandwich stuffed with pork loin in Greg’s case (top left) and chickpea & quinoa balls in Mandy’s case (bottom right). It is then drowned in a mild fresh salsa. OMG. One of the best things we’ve eaten so far. We also had two horchata drinks. Mandy got the pretty pink one which was “rosita” and tasted bizarrely exactly like bubble gum. Greg’s was turmeric flavored and it tasted like it! Also, in this spread you can see their cheerful retro decor. This delicious restaurant meal cost $10, including tip.
We admired the true out-of-Portland bikes across the street. Unlocked. At least one of them…
There was in fact, a lot to admire, including this castle looking restaurant.
We wandered around this lovely neighborhood the rest of the afternoon.
Reminded us of friends we know from the States!
So many fun places to eat! Many were closed but probably open at night?
What fun art! Everywhere!
We tried to go to Cerveceria Loba, but sadly it was closed. We found out from a neighbor that unfortunately it has been closed for awhile due to the pandemic. (His Spanish was a bit fast so we hope this is correct information?)
Greg blends right in.
Inside the cathedral later that day. We heard with the stained glass ceiling it’s just magnificent at sunset but unfortunately, we were a bit early to witness this.
Time for a stop at the pasteleria. This time Mandy choose strawberries and cream. (And yes, they are stuffed with real strawberries!)
We heard someone living in this little camper when we walked by. Hey, why not? At least you’ve got a colorful view!
Our Housesit in Guadalajara
So, although all the sightseeing in Guadalajara was wonderful, our favorite part was absolutely meeting our new friends, Rick & Eunice and getting to spend Christmas Day and dinner with them. This wonderful couple was our housesitting hosts and although we were supposed to only get one night with them, their plane conveniently (for us!) got delayed by a day. Before that, the first night they took us to their favorite pub, which thankfully was nearly empty, and lavished us with drinks (and sanitizer.)
The dinner we cooked them as a thank you before they left. We had planned an “all American” Christmas dinner, but had a little trouble finding some ingredients. Also, their oven wasn’t working. So…we improvised and made…sautéed garlic potatoes, avocado corn salad, apple pistachio salad and chicken with a cranberry reduction beer glaze. Oh, and flan. Because we’re in Mexico.
And of course, Christmas dinner was served outside, which was definitely a first. And why wouldn’t we?! 75 degrees (28 Celsius) and sunny every unbelievable day. The dinner was accompanied with lots of Spanglish and laughter, especially when Mandy decided to show off her hard work of learning the lyrics to “Despacito.” Eunice, whose English was en par with Mandy’s Spanish (aka not good, haha), challenged Mandy to learn the lyrics to her favorite song, “Caraluna” and in return would learn “Don’t Stop Believing” by the time they saw each other next. Goals!!
The condos where they live and we stayed. We’ve already been exchanging Spanish for English lessons with the kids next door who have been very eager to try out their “Hello, how are yous?”
Our adopted children for two weeks. Seriously. Rick fondly referred to Katie & Kiara as “mis hijas.” My daughters. They couldn’t have been sweeter daughters.
