We had a lot of possibilities for our last few weeks in north Vietnam, but to be honest, things had been a bit challenging since Mandy’s stomach issues for both of us. Greg also had a head cold, and overall, we were just feeling a bit burnt out. This was further compounded by a four day mistake because we made a fruitless trip further north near the Chinese border in an effort to do the famous Ha Giang motorbike loop, something we had been dreaming about for awhile. Unfortunately to be on a motorbike for four days, you need to have the ability to sit. And at least one us does not that capability. Plus, the forecast was not exactly ideal. It was a lot of splurge money when factors were not aligning so we’re gonna have to come back for this one. The beautiful thing about this life is, we know we will!
The above photo was taken on our six-hour sleeper bus from Hanoi to Ha Giang. For the record, this “VIP” experience ($14/ticket) can feel a bit cattle-like, especially with the inability to choose your seat in advance. After being assured by our hotel we would have a middle or upfront seat, they again tried to shove us in the suffocating back section even though the entire bus was nearly empty. We blatantly refused and nothing happened other than some eye rolling.
In fact, the longer we traveled in Vietnam, the more we started to realize the whole VIP bus thing is not as glossy as they originally appear. The buses are often very late, completely disorganized, have crazy drivers, who often stop frequently for their personal market trips, don’t have bathrooms, and you can forget about sitting fully upright. But compared to bus travel in some countries, it’s still pretty comfortable and amazing to be able to fully extend. Plus, you get a cozy blanket which is necessary in the blasting AC. That said, we really feel bad for the westerners who are bigger and taller than we are.
But just in case you‘re going crazy in your box, the aisles and floors are fully padded.
Also, things have been different since we got to the north. Most buses seem to go the main station and then you transfer to a smaller shuttle bus which takes you direct to your hotel. This is incredibly confusing at first because there’s no explanation of anything but once you understand, it’s super helpful and saves money!
Arriving to our hotel room in Ha Giang, called Strawberry House ($20/night) which we primarily chose because we planned to use their agency to book our motorbike tour. It was a basic room without a kettle or fridge, but they did bring us a daily breakfast in the form of a murdered egg and bread roll to our room each day while we enjoyed this peaceful rainy mountain view.
The setting of Ha Giang, a town of about 70k, approximately 25 kilometers from the Chinese border, is actually quite fetching, ringed by mountains and a river flowing through it.
It would be an adequate place to stay longer if there were more comfortable long term stay options, and if besides their multitude of coffee shops, with child size chairs…they had somewhere decent to eat…
…and we don’t mean this. WHAT. THE. ACTUAL F%<*CK?!? We knew these places existed but couldn’t decide if it was better or worse that it was actually written IN ENGLISH!?!?
The worst part?! Despite it being a controversial act, increasingly also for the Vietnamese, it was slam packed every night and the reviews proclaimed it was the “best” in Ha Giang, which implies multiples. 🤢😳
According to the Hanoi Times, “dog meat was traditionally served on death anniversaries, weddings, and occasions when a Vietnamese family received honored guests. Some even believe eating dogs can help them get rid of bad luck. People eat dog meat because they want to chase away misfortune during the lunar month and hope for something better. Thus, no matter how much affection they receive from their owners, dogs are often nothing more than food and property to the Vietnamese, not a friend or relative, as in Western countries.”
For us, it is really difficult to wrap your head around this.
Knowing this was floating around town, we fortunately found the hole-in-the-wall “Huong Sen Vegetarian Restaurant” and had some nice vegetable soup instead for $1.50, while this adorable little fluff monster nearly made us cry as he nipped at our feet. ☺️
Moving on, the only square in Ha Giang featured a beefy communist-looking statue
And the whole town had indoctrination sprinkled throughout. This one says, “LIVE TO FIGHT, WORK AND LEARN ACCORDING TO THE EXAMPLE OF THE GREAT HO.”
The view from “Top of the Loop,” the best restaurant we found which was completely westernized and run by a Aussie expat.
Vietnamese baby car seat.
One of the days, we also tried to climb this beast, the Ha Giang city viewpoint, along with at least five other travelers, who all asked for a coffee at the perfectly placed “Cafe Nui Cam” on the trek up.
Although there were two people working there, they had no coffee in any form, and instead tried to sell everyone warm soda and beer, getting mad when people didn’t order. Where is the abundant Vietnamese entrepreneurial spirit we’ve seen elsewhere in the country?! There are literally 800 tourists doing the Ha Giang Loop everyday and this town seems to be missing the boat in a lot of ways, although it’s certainly got potential!
One thing they didn’t lack however, was locals who exercise. Everywhere we looked people, were running on the riverfront pathway, doing unusual chicken-like fitness moves, or using the provided equipment.
Also, the town is very clean. Mostly due in part to these hard working street sweeper and garbage collecting ladies. Unbelievable.
The famous Ha Giang Loop can be done in 2-5 days. It would have taken us through some of the most stunning landscapes in Vietnam…but alas, life had other plans. Well, that was an interesting detour!
