The Magic of Mariana in Minas Gerais, Brasil

A thirty minute ($1.25) local bus ride from Ouro Preto’s main station will take you to Mariana, the oldest city in Minas Gerais founded in 1696 in a picturesque mountain setting. Despite this, it was far less hilly and less busy than Ouro Preto, and didn’t offer the same opulence. However this former state capital, offered a simple charm we were much more drawn to with its baroque architecture, quiet streets and tree lined plazas. As soon as we arrived, we wish we had based ourselves there. 

Usually cities like to display their cathedrals as stand alone showpieces. Marianna bizarrely positioned theirs like elegant armed guards overlooking a stone pillar which looks poised and ready for battle as it balances a teetering scale.

We couldn’t find any information on the pillar’s actual meaning, but he looked like he was ready for a fight.

The cobbled streets of Mariana

The main plaza, Gomes Freire, is a leafy and iconic place in Mariana to sit on a bench, preferably with an ice cream, and watch the world go by. 

The gazebo in the middle reminded us of many Mexican pueblos we’ve visited.

There was a little bit of incline, although nothing like OP.

Also, the center was pretty compact.

Unique balconies created by carved soapstone. 

We went into an artisan shop and had a free cachaça and marmalade tasting.

And by a high school where they were playing an aggressive game of good old dodgeball. Ick. So glad those days are over. 🤣

A bridge that looks like it had some stories to tell, which straddled the Rio do Carmo.

A viewpoint of the town near the train station. 

The guidebook we had didn’t even mention Mariana’s historic station but it was well worth a look. 

The train operates from Friday to Sunday, twice a day both ways. It covers the 11 miles distance in about one hour. 

We noted that the trains interestingly featured the Skoda brand.

Inside the train.

The beautifully restored station was as pretty as a peach. It was finished in 1914.

The park next to the station had a fantastic musical library for kids to play on. We caught this one jamming out on the xylophone.

Time for lunch, we headed to one of the squares where we bypassed the expensive looking kilo bars for something that had set prices, which was about $4/meal. Mandy even managed to find vegetarian spaghetti, while Greg chowed down on a Chicken a la Plancha.

And finally the sun had also started showing her pretty face! We couldn’t recommend Mariana more!

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