Arriving to San Cristobal from Antigua, Guatemala
Although we were a bit bummed to bid Antigua farewell for our next month-long destination of 2026, we were definitely excited to arrive to Mexico for the first time in five years. This time, via a 13-hour trip by shuttle van journey to San Cristobal de las Casas, in Mexico’s most southern state of Chiapas…(which, for the record, was considerably far away from the temporary cartel mayhem that was happening in Puerto Vallarta).
The $74/each shuttle, which we booked through Adonis Tours, picked us up directly from our apartment at the pre-bird-chirping hour of 3:30. From here, we immediately (attempted) to fall back asleep before being transferred to another van to naturally complete interrupt any hope of that. And rolling into Mexico would be quite a surprise…
It took about 7 hours to arrive to the border where we were stamped out of Guatemala with precision and speed, and stamped into Mexico, after changing vans again, which was a significantly longer process.
This was the first time we remembered having to pay the tourist tax called the Derecho de No Residente (DNR), which was a surprising $57/person. (983 pesos). This is in addition to the departure tax you have to pay when exiting the country, which was around $90/person (included in airfare.)
This fee has apparently been around since 1999, but has recently been skyrocketing, going up at least 15% just since last year. It was also the first time we were asked for an onward ticket. Eek!
This alone will now be a consideration we have to think about when visiting one of our favorite countries! Certainly more than any visa we’ve ever had to pay, and we were very disappointed to learn about it.
Money changers with their wads of cash tucked into their motorbike seats, waiting for opportunities to start a ‘knockin. Having already set free all our Guatemalan Quetzales, we chose to wait until we arrived to an ATM. Hasta la próxima Guatemala 👋
Our new van which would take us to San Cris alongside a nice Mexican-American guy and a couple from France…all who were also surprised about the DNR tax.
The Mexicans do know how to work however. That’s some serious skill! Interestingly in front of a Jewish grocery store?
The terrain of Southern Mexico
Considering the only stops we made were at gas stations, I was grateful to have packed ample healthy sustenance for our 13-hour ride, including a tub of yogurt with all the fixings, fruit, boiled eggs and refried beans smeared in a plastic bag. Greg really did not like this picture but you need to see the reality of the bean situation.
“Pro” tip: always eat the beans LAST in such a confined situation.
“Pro” tip 2: it does help to have some pesos in Mexico, because we forgot they charge even for the gas station’s baños. Fortunately the new friends we made were able to exchange for a USD.
P.S. Our van door may have gotten a little lost in translation or perhaps it’s just feeling a little frisky. Prize to the first person who says…”that’s what she said.”
Exploring the City of San Cristobal de las Casas
Founded in 1528, the colonial starlet of San Cristobal de las Casas, has been a superbly pleasant place to base ourselves for the last month, located in the Chiapas Highlands at 7200 feet (2200 meters). It’s the kind of paradise where you don’t need air conditioning, or heat, and the cooler climate, at least in February and March, is idyllic with highs in the low 70sF (22C) with typically sun-drenched skies, though we experienced lows down to 40F (4C), which wasn’t an issue due to the layers our apartment host provided us with.
With the countless vividly painted colonial facades, retro VW bugs putting around, and narrow, cobbled and utterly walkable streets, San Cristobal embodies the term “Pueblo Mágico”. And, with a significant indigenous cultural center consisting of Tzotzil and Tzeltal Mayan where women wear traditional woven clothing and sell textiles in buzzing markets, it gains another layer of tradition and diversity than in many other parts of the country.
Also, for us, San Cristobal was the perfect antidote and counter balance to tourist inundated Antigua, Guatemala. There are international tourists here, but still only a handful, and the majority seem to come domestically.
The dazzling bright yellow San Cristobal Cathedral is an icon you won’t miss on the main square. It dates mostly from the 16th–17th centuries and is one of the most photographed buildings in Chiapas. We also found more yellow bursts in the sun near a food cart bike.
For some reason, it’s easy to forget about the Bug’s prevalence in Mexico until you begin seeing them everywhere on the streets again! Also on the street, we witnessed a traditionally dressed mama and her daughter. (Con Smart Phone!)
The street where our apartment was located. It was near God’s pharmacy? Hmmm. That could be a gamble.
The gazebo in the center square adorned with a gagworthy number of hearts for Valentine’s Day. This was adjacent to one of the many Spanish style arcades
Another yellow church, ignites with a glow in the afternoon light. Near the bus station one can find a sculpture called La Artesana, which honors the Indigenous women artisans of the Chiapas highlands. Chiapas has one of the largest Indigenous populations in Mexico, and much of its cultural heritage comes from those communities.
On one of the western hills, we found our favorite walk which included a steady climb up to this church, the Iglesia de San Cristobal, which long ago was conveniently placed atop spiritually symbolic ground to establish Catholic presence over the landscape. From the hill, you could get a good look at the neighborhood below, which featured a facade with some curious double entendre art.
A view from the top of the hill to the city of ~200K. So where did San Cristobal de las Casas, usually called San Cris by the locals, get its name?
“San Cristobal” comes from the patron saint of travelers, while “de las casas” has nothing to do with houses, but with Bartolome de las Casas, a 16th century bishop in Chiapas who became famous for defending indigenous people against Spanish colonial abuse. He argued strongly against forced labor and mistreatment of native populations. Unfortunately, his “A” for effort didn’t mean much because historically this city was actually a Spanish colonial stronghold that marginalized indigenous communities for centuries. At least he tried?
In the city, about 73,000 people speak an Indigenous language, which is one reason the cultural atmosphere here feels so different from many other Mexican cities. We’ve also noticed we don’t feel quite as warmly welcomed here as in other parts of Mexico, which makes sense considering their turbulent history.
Although we did proclaim that San Cris is walkable, there are definitely a few wonky obstacles along the way. Another church, which houses the amber museum.
Winding staircases weaving their way up into the hills.
One of the main pedestrian thoroughfares which seems to be where the few gringos congregate, as well as tourist information services, 2 for 1 happy hours, money exchange office and multiple cafes and international cuisine options. At the far end, you’ll notice the east side church on the hill…aka Templo de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe.
It is eccentrically ornamented with a black (not brown) Jesus, and a uniquely mish-mashed altar where the gaudy neon of Vegas meets Virgin Mary.
You might be noticing a theme here, as this sandstone stunner, Iglesia de Santo Domingo, glimmers in the golden hour. She sits directly next to a fabulous artisanal market stocked with handicrafts for souvenirs, which kind of detracts from her beauty.
More strolls along pedestrian streets, and near the Central Mercado which is where we usually picked up our fruits and vegetables.
Yep…another fetching church, this one bedecked in red and white.
And another institution. Although we did appreciate that the fast food joints, like in Antigua, blended in nicely with their surroundings. Unlike this guy!
The Bell Tower, or “Arch of Carmen” was erected in 1677 in the purest Mudéjar style of the Colonial era. It belonged to the Convent of the Incarnation of Mary and is now part of the Church of Our Lady of Carmen. She’s a cute little addition, which definitely shouts European roots.
Sitting in the Quiosco Central Park in San Cris, felt much less chaotic than a night in Antigua as well. Unlike the ironically named “Plaza de la Paz,” (Paz=Peace, gringo), which was bustling with vendors every evening at the night market, selling to both locals and tourists.
More inviting street scenes. This is usually where the tourist trolley would sit which never seemed to have anyone in it, nor did we ever see it moving. That really speaks to the lack of tourist demand in this city. Or maybe, this city just attracts a different kind of tourist?
The rugged area around San Cris is ripe for trails and adventure. Unfortunately, the Mexicans aren’t really known for such things and although we went two miles south one day in search of an “established” trail, we were never able to find it. However, we definitely got much closer to the rocky landscape that the city is folded in, and saw parts of the city we wouldn’t have otherwise.
It was also nice to see the prices dropping significantly as we edged our way to the outskirts, which hosted a really beautiful setting. It really is a beautiful setting. So, sadly we never found the trail. But we did get some exercise and nice views.
Oh…and we saw another church! Surprise! 😉
In Search of Nature in San Cris
In search of some nature and solitude, which always feels harder to access in Central America, one day we walked 45 minutes north from the historic center of San Cristobal de las Casas to an ecological reserve. Parts of it were a bit of an aggravating bust, but we still enjoyed the idyllic sunny day and got some good exercise, while doing some forest bathing, seeing some unique things and learning to count in Mayan.
This well-known ecological reserve is located in a pine-oak forest. After paying our $100 pesos ($5.80/each) to enter, we learned that there are two activities here…a 2 km long trail, and an inviting orchid and plant garden.
It’s also doubtful you’ll miss this slightly unsettling statue, which seems to blend together some strong Pacha Mama (Mother Earth) vibes….woman, meets animal, meets tree and earth.
The start of the 2k sendero or trail loop begins with a list of rules including things like don’t litter or brings dogs, before it winds its way up into the forest on a moderately steep path. It felt great to be out in nature again and see some birds, lizard and even a small snake which are unique to the Chiapas Highlands.
We also learned how to count in Mayan thanks to the vibrantly colored trail markers throughout…(this is four, which is quite obvious for anyone who has ever worked a dice!)
It works like this…the lines represent fives, and the dots represent everything in between. So one line is five, two lines is ten, and two lines with one dot would be 11. Kind of a fascinating way to count. (That is, until you get to like 100 or so when it would start looking a lot more like a pile of pick-up sticks!)
We later learned that they invented the number “0” which was also incorporated for higher numbers and made things a lot more sophisticated.
As you can see by the wooden map, the trail was separated in 12 segments. Unfortunately, we only made it to number 6 before we had to boomerang back the way we came due to three bounding and aggressive dogs…yes those animals appropriately NOT allowed on a nature reserve. But clearly THESE dogs believed this was their territory. WTF!?!? We’ve seen this sort of behavior time and time again in Latin America and it infuriates us.
Fortunately, after explaining this to the entrance attendant he gave us a partial refund, but it still doesn’t make it right in a place which “prides itself in education, conservation and biodiversity.” I still really don’t think most Mexicans get it. 🫤
Because this had nearly scared the you -know-what out of me, I was happy to use the baño, which, with its sticks, stones and mud construction, looked like it belonged to the three little pigs. (Who ironically also got threatened by wolves.) Visiting the gardens was a much more pleasant experience.
The garden features an “Orchiderium” which houses hundreds of species of orchids native to Chiapas, plus a rich variety of bromeliads and other epiphytes. Unfortunately they are not blooming during this season as much as my determined husband tried to find one. Can you see him?!
Daily Life in San Cristobal de las Casas
Last year, when we decided to slow the pace in 2026, we came up with two lists of places we might like to live for at least a month. The first list was “KNOWN KNOWNS”…aka places we’ve been that we believe are worth returning to for a month. (For example, Antigua, Guatemala and San Cristobal de las Casas). The second was “UNKNOWN KNOWNS”…aka places we haven’t been yet, but we believe could serve as adequate one-month destinations.
What does it take to get on this list for us?!
- Affordable cost of living: between $500-900/month for apartments
- Access to supermarkets, as well as local produce markets
- The ability to exercise in a pleasant environment; hiking or swimming a huge bonus
- A local culture/environment in which we’re interested in immersing
- Peaceful, or the ability to find peace and quiet
- Walkable, and/or well-connected by public transportation
- Comfortable climate (which is usually determined by time of year)
San Cristobal has undoubtedly checked our boxes and then some. Other than the obvious aspects of a safe and charming life in a colonial and under-touristed town, our daily life has been exactly what we needed the last month…
- A terrific, (mostly) peaceful one-bedroom apartment with a view
- Affordable groceries
- Reasonably priced restaurants
- An expansive fitness park within a 10-minute walk
- Perfect climate
- And access to healthcare when needed.
It’s a place we can see visiting again and again…
Although visiting a Posheria certainly wasn’t a daily life scenario, it was definitely a treat we imbibed in while in San Cris. Sometimes described as the Mayan ancestor of mezcal, though it’s made very differently, Pox (pronounced posh) is a traditional Mayan distilled spirit made from corn and sugarcane, which is fermented and then distilled. It has been produced for centuries by the Tzotzil and Tzeltal communities and used for ceremonies, healing rituals and as an offering to ancestors and spirits.
At the posheria, we had the chance to try small shots, or tarrajitos, which you sip not pound, thankfully because we’re no longer in our twenties. These included several different infusions for about $2.80/each. Our poshero (?) poured us samples of almond, cinnamon, cacao, blackberry and cardamom versions, though there was more than 20 to choose from.
This trip to a local produce market cost $10.30. We were lucky to be here during Ataúlfo mango, papaya AND berry season. You know it’s a good destination when you get tropical fruits and temperate fruits at the same stand and season.
Our third floor tastefully decorated and furnished apartment with lofted ceilings was our favorite Airbnb we’ve booked in quite some time, and went for $668 for our four-week stay. It was wonderful to have a separate kitchen, which was actually pleasurable to cook in, a living room, office space, a bedroom and a weekly housekeeper.
Our balcony overlooking the courtyard below provided us with a daily dose of greenery and a view to the mountains. Other than standard Saturday night ruckus in Mexico, including two boisterous Quinceañeras, at the restaurant below, and the obligatory occasional firecrackers, it was usually peaceful and quiet.
Our giant bedroom complete with giant, comfortable bed. This is not a luxury we get very often and we’ve loved every moment of spreading out like starfish. We also had two identical bathrooms, which was convenient or more than one occasion. (Mexican food…need I say more?!)
Our office workspace overlooking the courtyard and mountains. An absolute dream for writing!
A welcome gift from our amazing hostess, Ana Luisa. She was incredibly helpful throughout our stay. It’s also nice to be back in the land where food labels are crystal clear!
The entranceway into our courtyard, set back from a busy street. There were about eight apartments in total…a mix of locals, travelers and a guy who regularly, and quite vocally, pleasured himself at regular intervals. Oh. My. God. Oh. My. God.
Before we had any groceries, our first meal out was at La Ramita Verde, a vegetarian/vegan friendly health food joint. Greg had Suiza Enchiladas and I had a salad loaded with all kinds of yummy goodness. Naturally, yummy goodness costs a bit more at $13 for the two meals.
This is also the kind of place you can stare at the wall for the better portion of a Mister Rogers show (how I learned to tell time) gazing at all the fun hippie-friendly options in San Cris like cacao medicine treatments, chakra centering, and of course, Spanish classes.
The next day, we hit the biggest store we could find in hopes of scoring things like peanut butter sin azucar, which was the Chedraui, a 25-minute walk from our apartment. (For the record, we didn’t find un-sugared peanut butter until discovering a natural food store a week later for $6 a jar.)
Despite its lack of healthy peanut butter, this supermarket was an overwhelming paradox of choice, a la Estados Unidos, which was further enhanced by the “low cost” shopping carts they had at the entrance comparing themselves to Walmart.
Yes, Sam’s Club and Wal-Mart also exist in Mexico. In the end, this was not our supermarket of choice. For this reason, we much preferred the smaller Bodega Aurrera, (also owned by Wally World.)
What I do like about Mexico, however, is their colossal wall of frijoles. Naturally, every single bagged package is labeled “Exceso Sodio.” Oh those labels…what a love/hate relationship we’ve developed. The obesity/heart disease rates are really horrendous in Mexico, so it’s nice to see they actually try and address it….how badly we need this system in the US.
Also, in case you’re curious, our first big stock-up trip at the Chedraui ended up costing $126.
Of course, we much preferred visiting the Central Market where every scene has photo potential! Enjoying our 10 avocados for $1!
Blackberries cost $1.10 and strawberries were $2.75, and wow, were they delicious. We definitely didn’t have the fruit quality issue we had in Antigua here in San Cris.
Visiting a local baker for a weekly loaf of Masa Madre (sourdough bread), or mother dough, as they called it in Spanish. This cost $3.30. In comparison, we were paying $4.71 in overpriced Antigua.
While all these things were wonderful, one of our favorite slices of luxury this month has been the Sedem fitness park, which was a ten-minute walk from our apartment. This vast park is gated off, but public and FREE, offering anyone the opportunity to use its plethora of sports courts and walking paths…
…without the fear of being chased by a dog, (they aren’t allowed), or side-lined by rushing traffic or a feisty tortilla vendor. It was a fantastic place to run and walk, and became a regular part of our daily routines. In our experience, this kind of thing is challenging to find in Mexico, so it was a true gift.
It even had a pool! Again…FREE!!
Moving on, as with every place, it always takes us awhile to get settled in. We were delighted to have a blender to make smoothies, as it’s been months. However, this explosion is what happened when I first tried to use it. At least I didn’t lose a finger?!
Also, finding our culinary footing took awhile. In fact, after dreaming about and glorifying Mexican food for months leading up to our arrival, we tragically didn’t have good tacos until our last week in the country. Why? This meal at Restaurant Olote, which we emphatically would NOT recommend thanks to the food poisoning we believe we got from these tacos, which didn’t even look like proper tacos.
Yes, this is when the double bathrooms came in handy. This set off at least two weeks of troubled tummies for both of us before finally resolving; Greg’s with the help of medication, which wow, is has also gotten very expensive in Mexico!
For the record, in the 8+ months of travels in this country, this is the first time I’ve EVER been sick in Mexico, and Greg hasn’t since he was a young backpacker here. It wasn’t an ideal way to start our time for sure!
Fortunately, we always had plenty of fresh water to drink from this swinging contraption to flush out the toxins. It was delivered to us by our host for $20 pesos ($1.10). Nope, still can’t drink the water in Mexico either.
After our stomachs returned to normal, of course, we gorged, which included what became our favorite local taco joint called El Meson de Taco, featuring a flaming spit of glistening meat for Al Pastor tacos, and a reassuring steady stream of bleach fragrance that emerged during its off-hours.
Now, I don’t typically eat red meat, but there are three things I make exceptions for…Al pastor tacos, Thai beef salad, and Svichkova in the Czech Republic. Greg stashed away seven of them, while four was enough for me at $.90/each.
If you’re Mexicaned food out, there are plenty of other options in San Cris, including Thai, Italian, and Chinese. This was obviously not a problem we had.
In case you’re curious how much grabbing a coffee out goes for here, a medium Americano is about $2.13, or a latte is $2.80.
The one thing we were shocked to see price-wise, was the increase in rotisserie chickens, which sold for about $10/each. In 2021, we picked up this Mexican staple for about half that!
Laundry, we learned, is a real crapshoot in terms of pricing in San Cris. We made a stupid mistake of paying a whopping $9 for about 4.5 kilos on our first visit, due to proximity to our apartment. And this was the REGULAR price, not just for gringos. We know because the prices were clearly posted. After admonishing ourselves, we quickly learned you can pay as little as $10 pesos per kilo, or $2.25 for 4 kilos by walking a few steps further. In either case, it was washed, dried, folded and bagged up for us.
In addition to the stomach illness, I’ve been continuing to deal with shoulder/neck pain which I thought was a pinched nerve (it wasn’t). After three months of back and forth with this, I finally decided to send a What’s App message to Dr. Gomez, a 4.8-star rated orthopedic surgeon who agreed to see me the same day for $45 with follow-up PT appointments for $20/each. I’m doing a lot better!
Our last weekend here, there was a fun car show on the perimeter of the Central Park. I’m not sure if I, or this little girl wants to drive this Barbie car more! I think I can take her? There were also VW Bugs galore!! In some of them, the had tricked out the area under the hoods with massive sound systems.
