Cozy fires, warming drinks and tasty sweet treats, traditional centuries-old markets crowded with locals and travelers alike, candles and lights galore, and all with dash of Saint Nicholas. Can you really go anywhere in the world more quintessential for Christmas than Germany? Thanks to our three-week housesit in Northern Bavaria’s Nuremberg, we were able to make our Christmas fantasies come true and we even picked up a highly lovable new furry family member to make our visit all the more cozy.
Germany turned out to be a blissful escape from typical highly commercialized chaos and stress that usually surrounds us this time of year…we found a truer reminder of what Christmas is all about in Nuremburg. As we stepped into the central square in Fürth, a suburb of Nuremberg, we soon came upon our first Christmas Pyramid. (Yes, these do actually exist beyond Cousin Eddie destroying Clark’s in “Christmas Vacation.”) These wooden pyramids, often a towering centerpiece of holiday displays, are a traditional German decoration dating back to the 16th century. It is an art form that many believe evolved into our current custom of a Christmas tree.
We couldn’t have asked for a better housesit on the outskirts of Nuremberg. We were in a lovely home with more than enough space to be comfortable and got to watch a cuddly feline named “Mister Kitty” who we quickly fell in love with thanks to his friendly, vocal and mischievous spirit. On the night before Christmas he even brought in a guest to our party of three…a live field mouse…as a present(?) for us all to share. Creatures were stirring all through our house!
We were also graced with snow on a couple occasions creating the ideal place to cozy up for Christmas. (And yes, sorry, a couple more cat pictures ?.)
Of course, when we weren’t at the house, there was tons to explore! Nuremberg City Center itself hosts one of Germany’s most famous markets—Christkindlesmarkt—with more than 180 vendors in red and white wooden huts on the festively decorated main square tucked under the medieval Frauenkirche, or Church of Our Lady built in 1352. The market itself first dates from 1628. The food stalls focus on regional specialities – mulled wine (Glühwein), Nuremberg Rostbratwurst and gingerbread sweets are a given. Memories of Christmas in Prague came flooding back easily with glühwein…we have not found anything in this world more wonderfully warming.
More Christkindlesmarkt scenes!
Rothenberg ob de Tauber
So many day trip options from Nuremberg! And so quickly and easily accessible by train…bless the efficient, brilliant German train network. Of course, one of these day trips had to include Rothenburg ob de Tauber, one of the most justifiably touristy places in this region, attracting visitors from all over the world. Walking into Rothenberg is like stepping into a medieval theme park, with its dauntingly long and hulking intact fortification wall and pristinely preserved Middle Age architecture, tossing quaintness at you with every head swivel. Throw in a little Christmas topping, and you’ve got your ultimate storybook set.
Climbing to the top of 48 meter Rathaus (Town Hall) is the best place to begin your day and get a lay of this city, as you embrace your inner Rapunzel. The stairs are quite narrow and a small ladder takes you to the final 18” wide viewing platform which is not for the vertigo-challenged as we witnessed by a lady having a panic attack at the top!
The view from the tower looking down, the exterior and the lady who works at the top to take your 2.50€ fee. Jealous of this office view!
Christmas in Rothenburg!
The Tower Trail which is essentially walking along the perimeter of Rothenburg within the town’s 14th Century old wall is unlike anything we had ever seen. You climb into the wall throughout various entrance points and can continue for and astounding 4K and through its 46 towers. It’s an incredible vantage point into the city, and so much (totally free!) fun. Sadly, the wall is not all original. About 50% of it was destroyed during WWII, but has obviously been rebuilt and very well preserved.
Another view of the tower trail.
One of the more remarkable icons…the circular Spital Bastion from the late 16th Century, which is an impressive figure eight structure with dark, circular corridors. It protected Rothenburg from attack in the south.
One of the beautiful bridges connecting the Spital Bastion.
One of the most famous postcard images from Rothenburg ob der Tauber is definitely the Plönlein…Little Square and its Kobolzeller Tower.
Embracing the mobs of tourists!
The Rothenburg Christmas market.
The very commonly photographed Marienapotheke (St. Mary’s Pharmacy) is a genuine apothecary’s shop. It has been catering to the health needs of Rothenburg’s local population and its visitors since 1812.
A Schneeballen, which means snowball in English, is especially popular in Rothenburg. It’s a mouthwatering pastry made from strips of shortcrust pastry dough, deep fried and topped with delicious toppings like cinnamon, powdered sugar, cocoa and more. Very similar taste to an elephant ear. Mmmm.
Our cuteness meter can’t take much more!
Nuremberg
Back in Nuremberg, we visit the 11th Century castle with its imposing walls and sweeping city views.
Nuremberg as seen from the castle.
Check out the self operating metro cars! No driver!! Amazing! So efficient.
Despite the bitter cold, we walked around Nuremberg as much as possible. Pictured is the Weinstadel area which is a great place to start any tour of Old Town with its river, crisscrossing stone and wooden bridges and undeniable Middle Age charm.
St Lorenz Church was built between 1250-1477 and is one of the showpiece churches in central Nuremberg. It was badly damaged during WWII but has been beautifully restored.
One of the many squares, which included a metro entrance underneath the pictured tower, which we had never seen done before. What a fabulous way to start your evening commute!
St Elizabeth’s Church, Nuremberg.
Mandy finds challenges with her vegetarian preferences in this land of meat. When in Germany…
Where we stayed, we were lucky to have access to lots of trails for running and walking. Love this trail network! They even had cute little Scandinavian trail markers. Not sure why…
To continue getting our nature on, we took advantage of another sunny day just south of Nuremberg about 20 min. By train to a natural preserve called Wandergebiet Schwarzachklamm. Quiet a mouthful. It was filled with interesting sandstone rock formations, caves and quaint hiking alongside a rushing stream paths.
After a nice walk, of course, it’s mandatory in Franconia to settle in for a beer. Fortunately there was a lovely beer garden right next to the entrance/exit of the preserve. We chuckled when we saw this sign saying “watch your children” and then saw a boy who looked to be about 12 sharing a pint with his father. As it should be! ?
Bamberg
On another day trip we ventured to the UNESCO world heritage city of Bamberg to take in more medieval vibes and also a bit of beer tourism downing some unique Rauchbier, a smoked malt beer first crafted in Bamberg 600 years ago. Pictured here is the Town Hall which is located on an island accessible only by pedestrian bridges. According to legend the bishop of Bamberg did not grant the citizens any land for the construction of a town hall. This prompted the townsfolk to ram stakes into the river Regnitz to create an artificial island, on which they built the town hall they so badly wanted. (Bamberg.info)
The main river which runs through the city. Bamberg was founded in 973.
Perfectly strollable and nearly desolate streets.
The old palace where the bishops lived in the 16th and 17th centuries.
The Bamberg Christmas market.
A unique cherub has a rest on the town hall wall. What beautiful frescoes!
Laud an der Pegnitz
On a search for less tourism and some real German authenticity, we visited another nearby town of Lauf an der Pegnitz. Although the other days were wonderful, this was probably one of our favorite days. The people here were genuinely kind and seemed excited to see tourists. Plus, you can see the town was simply adorable.
A unique archway in Lauf
Riverside of Lauf, including a wooden water wheel.
More Lauf scenes. It was a very Frohe Weinachten from Germany!
