Arriving to New Zealand

We arrived to New Zealand in utter zombie state. Considering the distance most people travel to get this island nation, I’m sure we weren’t the first. But, we were only coming three hours from Australia so it should have been easy, right? Nah, Jetstar wanted to assure we were up at the cheery hour of 2:00 for our 6:00 am flight. Then, the crew didn’t show up until an hour AFTER they told us to arrive for our mandatory 3-hour early arrival time followed by a delayed plane…

BUT…alas…we when we saw the endless jagged, snow-draped Southern Alps blanketed below, our irritations…and fatigue…started to gently fade. We truly are beyond grateful. In fact, during this month of travel in New Zealand, we’ve relished in the opportunity of physically being so far away from seemingly everything. We’ve mostly disconnected from the shitshow of the rest of the world, featuring our country as the world’s biggest reality show, and spent a lot of time reconnecting with nature. So, though we moved relatively quickly, we at the same time, drastically slowed the pace. 

As we flew into New Zealand we bore witness to a sea of craggy peaks punching their heads through the clouds over the South Island’s Fjordland National Park. Now this was worth reviving ourselves from our 92 degree budget airplane seat tilt! It also didn’t take long to spot a splotch of aqua-hued paint…one of hundreds of glacier-fed lakes sprinkled throughout the Southern Alps.  

Touching down in Queenstown, which is one of the most popular tourist stops on the South Island, we disembarked to feel a blast of lusciously cool breeze after the last month in the heat of Australia.  

But before we were free to meander into Kiwi Land, first we had to have our shoes inspected for invasive Aussie dirt by the friendly customs people, and declare any questionable items which for us included Greg’s Brazil nuts he takes for his thyroid, our spice bag, and our medications. 

Like in Australia, the New Zealanders are super stringent about what comes in and out of the country so make sure to declare everything. In the end, they didn’t even inspect these items, other than our shoes. 

This led us to question…what if we did have dirt on our shoes? It’s our only pair! They can’t just take your shoes! Why not have those Covid friendly shoe sanitizers we used to traipse through everywhere in Mexico? 🤔 

After we were released from the declare…or die…line, we stepped into the buzz of this small town airport ringed by mountains, where it was quite easy to find the #1 public bus. This bus didn’t seem particularly #1 worthy, would take us to the center for NZD $10 (cash) each (about $5.60 USD). We also had the option to buy a BEE card, but that’s really only worth it if you plan to stick around Queenstown…which we didn’t. 

Finally settled on board the local bus still with our obnoxious fifth wheel (roller bag loaded with camping goodies), we were able to check out the local reading material. Here it seems you tag, rather than tap off the bus…

By 2:00 pm, it dumped us and our fifth wheel in the center and within another five minute walk, we’d arrived at the place where we’d get to rest our weary heads…the Haka House Hostel, where we’d pay a whopping $31/EACH for a 4-bed dorm….the cheapest accommodation we could find for the night.

That said, they were super big and cozy with privacy curtains so we were immediately able to climb in one, shove in ear plugs and try and recoup a few zzz’s. 

And after, we hit up the hostel’s freebie box…which was excellent considering the hostel candy we got, including contact solution, and a $14 value backcountry meal. Of course, that same meal would wreak havoc on Greg’s intestines a couple weeks later, but that’s another story. 🫣

Then it was time to feed ourselves because we were famished. So, we did what any health-irresponsible backpacker would do…went straight for the $2.80 savory pies labeled “butter chicken” which were seriously bamboo spork-licking good. Really. They had those. 

Settling in with our pies of sin (and salad for good measure) on a small creek to enjoy our first official Kiwi meal, which totaled $12.84. It was here we realized we could sit on the grass. In peace. Nothing could kill us in New Zealand. What a refreshing change of pace….

Exploring Queenstown

Thanks to the least expensive flight options in the south, and being closely connected to the South Island’s main attractions, the mountain-crested, shimmering town of Queenstown is what first tugs many travellers into the natural rock star that is New Zealand. Upon arrival, its where you may first encounter one of the fifty shades of blue in her waters, the refreshing, yet sun-splashed skies, and what will become a regular companion as you traverse the island…the jagged and alluring Southern Alps. 

As its hub, this resort and adventure town of 27k is also the most touristed at 3 million people annually, and the most expensive, especially for lodging. With that said, we knew hanging around was not an option for us with no cheaper accommodation options than our $60 dorm-bed hostel, so we only had half a day to explore it. However, thanks to the 8:40 p.m. sunset, we felt like we got a good taste.

Once we arrived to the center, we quickly realised the town is compact and blissfully walkable. From Haka House Hostel, we arrived to the shores of Lake Wakatipu within 10 minutes where you could bask on a beach while gazing at the mountains. This placid lake was dotted by kayaks and stand up paddle boards though only a few valiant children seemed to wander into its brisk waters, even on a reasonably warm day. 

The birds were another story. In fact, there seemed to be a regular rivalry between the quietly chatty ducks and the boisterous, loud-mouth seagulls, whether competing for prime lake-top real estate or food, which we humans were carelessly tossing their way or leaving behind, despite the signage that said to not feed the birds. 

It’s easy to see why they compete…that water is addictively gorgeous…

…but come on guys…there is enough room for everybody! Another type of duck, the Papago (previous photo) mostly kept away from the riff riff of the aforementioned. He was a new one for us with his glossy black plumage and distinctive yellow eyes. 

In addition to the beaches, Queenstown, of course has a happening shopping and restaurant scene, which was mostly out of our price range, though we were thrilled to see some quite affordable draft beer and wine options at NZD $7, which is $4 USD. 

We instead popped in the most reasonably priced grocery store we could find, Four Square, to purchase some healthier pre-packaged options of Honey Tumeric Couscous and a Broccoli Crunch Chop Kit…

….which we enjoyed on the Queenstown Bay Beach, while constantly being monitored for accidental spillages.

After dinner, we admired the regal cafe, bizarrely named “The Bathhouse,” which was built at the end of the Belle Epoque in 1911 to celebrate the coronation of King George. It offered a menu that “harks to Great Britain nostalgia while marvelling at nature’s spectacular theatre.” We were quite content to have missed out on mushy peas. 

Moving toward the end of the beach, we were first introduced to New Zealand’s playgrounds of our childhood fantasies, which often seem to be integrated remarkably with the natural surroundings. From here, we found ourselves on the Queenstown Trail, of adult fantasies, which almost immediately whisked us away from the bustle of the town to a more rugged side on the Peninsula Vista…a side that reminded us immediately of places we’ve frequented in the Pacific Northwest (USA). 

The trail encompassed the Queenstown Gardens, where we found ponds of carpeted lily pads, and a fabulous disc golf course that weaved its way through the nearby forest.

The diverse presentation of flora within the Queenstown Gardens included flame hued Tiger Lillies, and even had a redwood tree, which soared like a giant above all its friends.

Back in the town, where people were starting to infill the hot spots like floating bars….

…which was parked conveniently near the edge of the inviting wharf. 

And as soon as the sun began to fade from the sky, we too were fading, after our 2 a.m. wake up call that morning. Time to head back to the hostel for a much-needed snooze.