Living the High Life

Although we’re determining this city is probably not the best fit for us, it is very easy to see why hundreds of digital nomads and expats have flocked to Chiang Mai in recent years. It’s easy. English is everywhere, locals are friendly, prices affordable, terrific services, the best cuisine in the world, trendy districts, decent weather, and luxury apartments for a fabulous price. 

For the first two weeks here, we settled in an apartment complex, which felt a bit like the Melrose Place of the digital nomad world called “The One” in the northeast part of the city. Everyone, while from all parts of the world, seems to be young, beautiful, and idyllically work/life balanced as they tap on their laptops and then take a splash in the pool. Oh yes, the pool…there are three of them, not to mention all the other necessities of digi nomad life…

Pool number 1…above is the cool pool. Because it gets more shade. Thus, it’s where Mandy swims laps because it’s cool, not because she is. It’s also where the sun-adverse Asian people mostly seem to hang out.

Pool number two seems to be the kids’ pool, complete with waterslide, and a smattering of the digi nomads’ wee ones. There are quite a few families as well. Pool number three is the Olympic-sized mega pool. It’s the Baywatch of “The One” mostly because it’s the most sun-soaked. 

The sauna room…males and females, of course.

The gym. There’s usually people standing (sexily) in line for treadmills when there’s a perfectly good street outside, which Greg has taken to. Nearby, the “Pilates and Yoga room,” which is clearly way more for the pilates people than the yogis. Yes. Considering Mandy used to pay $100/hour to use a room like this, it’s a bit mind-blowing that this is free with your stay. 😲

Greg has also taken to the sound proof “drum room” where he can close the door, to let out his inner “Animal.” Across the hall is the billiards and ping pong table room. 

The Lego and play room for where digi nomads can send their incredibly well behaved children. 

The gathering room for parties, meet ups, or business meetings, including a full kitchen. Also, co-working/study space includes delightfully ergonomic office chairs and desks, as well as individual sound-proof pods for phone calls. 

Our 8th floor studio apartment for $23/night had a quite plushy pillow topped Ameri-bed with a cute little window seat…

…a bathroom with a glass shower door, including a digital temperature and timer display (so you can make sure not to miss your first Zoom call)…

A “full” (ish) kitchen and washing machine…

…and a beautiful view over the lot where they’re building more apartments. Or perhaps Mt. Vesuvius, we’re not sure which. In case you don’t have time to run to the mega mall for a bite, a vending machine in the complex, which is shockingly stocked with some healthy food options. Oh Thailand ❤️

A map of the facility…because it actually needs one.

Mall Rats

Not sure there’s anywhere in the world (besides perhaps the Middle East) that competes with the mega malls of SE Asia. They’re simply swarming and buzzing with energy and people…like US malls were on a weekend in the 1980s/90s and what this heading was named after. They’re full of top brand names, skincare products and services often including the words “whitening” or “filling.” They have guest K-Pop singers which stir quite a teenage swoon frenzy. They boast the latest tech and gadgets, the most indulgent and affordable food courts, the latest movies like “Wicked” for $5/ticket…

…and, the real icing on the cake to complete their western facade?! They are utterly and completely festooned with glittering Christmas ornamentation  and Black Friday midnight sales. Or, at least here in Thailand….a nation that need we remind you…is 94% Buddhist. Five stories of mall madness and holiday cheer….something we definitely weren’t expecting. 

Yes. At least in our location, in San Sai, the westernization feels extreme and we were really not sure we liked it. However, for our current needs of just wanting to relax, get some work done and “be,” this place, and the adjoining mall services, has more than served its purpose. 

While Christmas is not a public holiday, it is still celebrated by a small percentage of the population, particularly in urban areas where there is a significant expatriate community. It’s becoming more common for friends and family members to trade gifts, especially with the younger generations. 

Considering, in theory, the mall should have no idea what they’re doing, I’d say they did a pretty good job, and the grand centerpiece tree, created with white paper parasols, also ties in Asian culture quite beautifully.

A giant stuffed Santa Claus which is clearly signed not to sit upon. The children don’t. Because they’re well behaved here. They also probably don’t understand the concept of sitting on the “real” Santa lap and is not a service the mall currently provides…probably a huge relief to the local parents. 🤣 

But the real reason we came to the mall?! The food courts! There are two, both huge, filled with any sort of Thai treat you can imagine all for about $1.75/dish and of course, all in English. Anything you put in your mouth is divine so just start picking.

We went daily, so this is just a sampling starting with drunken noodles with seafood…glass noodles with bitter beans and crab…

Spiced pineapple salad (Mandy’s new favorite)…shrimp pad Thai. 

Spiced Tofu basil…and Khao Soi, (Greg’s new favorite)

They also have self-service sushi bars. We loaded up for about $6 total. And other Japanese choices too! Like this salmon and seaweed bowl topped with an onsen egg (basically a poke bowl.)

Speaking of eggs, they also have all types of Japanese and Korean concoctions. Like these cute little pastry eggs stuffed with sweet injections. Like matcha, red bean or taro, (because that’s dessert here.) Or…for the less adventurous..and healthy…eaters who still want something unique…loaded toro fries with various “cheese” sauces.

When we weren’t feeling like Asian food, we often simply grabbed giant packaged salads, which were big, fresh and still cost $2.

Greg’s final haircut in Asia cost a whopping $7. (They’re usually $3-5) And though every one he’s had has been bad this year, it was the worst and he had to completely redo it with his clippers the next day. 🤣

Thomas the Train doing regular laps around the fifth floor.Trendy outside-looking inside cafes 

We decided to do something “normal” which we hadn’t done in probably 10 years…go to a movie. Purchasing the tickets was a bit different than before. Is this a modern thing, or an Asian thing? 

We checked out the concessions stand because we were curious, not because we bought anything. It’s possible the popcorn was bigger than any one we’ve ever seen in the States and cost $9. It seems the tiny Thai people should be catching up to the western world shortly if they’re eating all that! Settling in for the show which was subtitled in Thai. Yes…it was SO good!! 

Walking by the pricing at one of the many fancy skin clinics. For reference, 1000 Baht is $29. Also, our grocery receipt. Yes, it’s also in English. Our total for our two week shopping trip was about $54 at a high end supermarket. This did not include produce and several other things we bought at different places. Fortunately we found a market about a 20-minute walk from the complex. 

Chiang Mai Night Markets

Night markets and Thailand go hand in hand and Chiang Mai’s lively Sunday Walking Street Market is definitely an example of the best. However, the word is undoubtedly out so do expect crowds; the earlier you can get there after it opens at 4:00, the better! It will take about about 3-4 hours to cover the whole thing and along the way, you’ll find more street food than you could possibly eat in a year, distinctive handicrafts and other Thai souvenirs…and some very atmospheric temples stirred in as well.

This beautiful display is of elaborately carved…soap! The (real, not Laos) tuk tuks are back in Chiang Mai! We’ve missed their presence all year.

Prepping for a long night ahead and a new form of ice cream…sold in the form of bricks. 

If you bought enough of these, you could make a very delectable tasting igloo.

Mandy preferring a different treat on a stick. Chocolate covered strawberries for a $1. Other things on sticks included qual eggs. Mmmmm….?!

The crowd seemed evenly mixed between locals and foreigners 

A Crayola box of colorful prints, alongside the best in kindergarten teacher fashion.

Wat Sadue Muang is one of many eye catching temples along the night market route, which combines ancient with more modern.

Stunning artwork

Gorgeous handmade leather sandals which look like they’re customized for Julius Caesar 

Chiang Mai as a rock band or music fest, complete with VWs outfitted as a coffee shop

To go with…of course…the token leg covering of Thailand. Oh so many elephant pants and all costing 100 baht ($2.91). What’s surprising, which we don’t remember from last time, is the number of locals which wear them! And naturally, Mandy snatched up a new pair to replace her impersonated camel pants from Egypt.

Wat’s Up!?!

In Europe, it’s easy to get churched out. In Indonesia, or the Middle East, mosqued out. Here in Thailand…it’s watted out. And by the time we got to Chiang Mai, we were definitely feeling this way. Regardless, we still made an attempt to visit a couple of the more notable ones during our time in the north’s most developed city…..Wat Pha Lat, which was accessed by a lovely 1.5 hour forest hike, and Wat Phra Singh dating from the 14th Century. 

Wat Pha Lat is a ravishing and serene forest monastery complex accessed by a lovely 45-minute out and back pilgrimage trail call the Monk’s Trail. It seems you can also drive but that’s sorta cheating?

The history of this moss and lichen draped marvel dates back about 500 years ago. Apparently, King Kuena was transporting Buddhist relics to the top of the Doi Suthep mountain on his white elephant, but it collapsed, and he died there. The king commanded that a temple be built where his precious very large (non) fur baby had passed away and at each point where it stopped to rest. One of those resting places happened to be the site of Wat Pha Lat.

The name Wat Pha Lat comes from the local language. Phaled, which means slippery, is because people and elephants walking through streams or waterfalls in this area often slip and fall. Therefore it was named Wat Phalet, and later it was distorted by word of mouth of the people in the area until it became “Wat Pha Lat”.
While we were roaming, we also met this jolly little bald-headed monk looked a lot like the Saffron Smurf we met at our monastery stay.

On a clear day, this monastery also has phenomenal views over the city. Our last days in Chiang Mai were mostly cloudy so we didn’t get it appreciate it so much.

One of the most significant meanings of the peacock symbol in Buddhism is its association with purity and enlightenment. A deity swathed in golden jewels. In this culture, they could even be real. Nobody would dare swipe them.

Part of the monastery’s historic structures, this aged facade was enveloped by the surrounding forest…by far the most elegant and beautiful of the bunch. This complex was a rest stop on the way to Wat Phra Doi Suthep, so the building could have provided a spiritual or communal function for travelers.

The intricate carvings within it also suggest it may have been a prayer hall, or a space dedicated to housing statues of the Buddha and other spiritual figures

With these striking colors, this one was clearly created at a very different time.

It’s like walking into a Buddhist storybook

This must be those slippery rocks the elephants had trouble with.

The hike to the wat is a lot of uphill and some stairs, but it’s mostly forested making it quite pleasant and fun. 

On another evening, near the north gate of the city, we found our way to Wat Lok Molee, which dates from the 1300s and has a prominent chedi, aka stratified tower. However, this golden stunner, Wat Phra Singh Woramahawihan, in the heart of the Old Town, is the most revered wat in Chiang Mai. 

It was established in 1345 by King Phayu to enshrine the ashes of his father and is a Lanna architecture masterpiece, because of its age, which impressed us far more than the modern day wats in Chiang Rai.

The red carpets inside were positively radiating positive energy. 

The monastery is still an active monastery and center for Buddhist study and meditation. And by active, we mean at that very moment….the serenity is powerful. 

Living Life and Final Thoughts on Chiang Mai

We left with mixed feelings after 19 total days in Chiang Mai. Maybe it’s a city that we needed to visit twenty years ago to appreciate…maybe we just needed to stay longer…or maybe we went to the wrong parts….but despite popular opinion, other than the amazing food selection, we honestly didn’t see what all the fuss is about. Then again, cities generally are not our jam anyhow. 

The thing is, it’s quite westernized…which although it doesn’t speak to us, is probably why some people like it. It’s simply comfortable. The popular Nimman neighborhood feels more like Portland’s (Oregon USA) Nob Hill than Thailand. We stumbled upon little green or pleasant walking areas other than Doi Suthep mountain trails. The authenticity has been wiped in so many places and when we did try and get off the beaten path a bit and find some local flavor, it still just felt like a city to us, without a lot of character, so we still didn’t get it. There also felt like a distinct segregated divide and disinterest between the large amount of expats and the locals, which just kinda made us feel icky. 

Still, there were many things we enjoyed while staying here…

For example, a visit to a local market near our place in the northeast part of the city presented us with some of the best and spiciest Khao Soi while in Thailand. We can’t believe we had never had this dish before this visit! You know it’s a local place when the menu is only in Thai and it costs 50 baht ($1.46).

One of the few veggie sellers who was really sweet and smiley to us. Where were all the Thai smiles?! 😳 We got this load for about $12. Undoubtedly a foreigner price, but we’ll happily take it!! 

A local food cluster of food stands

As is typical, after having our fill of Thai food, we started craving Indian so we found something that would never exist in the States…homemade Indian food…literally served in Kanchan’s house and whipped up in her personal kitchen. We met nomad friends, Justin and Launa there for the indulgence, which came to $12.50. It was absolutely delicious. 

Moving into the trendy and modern Chiang Mai’s Nimman neighborhood, which is known as a hub for digital nomads, expats, and travelers seeking a contemporary, urban vibe. This market is pretty accurately named… 

It’s where elephant pants get denied, is overflowing with overpriced beers…and will cost ya to sit in one of those pretty pink chairs….despite that, the cost is far less than you’d pay elsewhere in the world for this atmosphere. 

The ultimate in pink. Yes, you can get hair extensions starting at $87 branded by Barbie in Nimman too. We’re guessing that’s cheap?! A women’s Barbie branded haircut definitely seems to be a good value for $10-15. 

Meeting up with more nomad friends, Robb and David. We’d been hoping to cross paths with them for a couple of years and so grateful we finally did. They are budget travelers like us so it was nice to meet up, and swap trade secrets, with a couple on the same page.  

Our second apartment in Chiang Mai, after visiting the monastery and Pai, exceeded the size and comfort of our fancy-pants, packed-with-amenities palace near Central Festival, and also cost $5 more at $28/night due to its proximity to to yes…the southern edge of the Nimman neighborhood. We searched for a place further south in the university zone but couldn’t find anything available that worked. And since it was only a few nights, the most important thing for us was walkability, because the other one definitely was NOT.

Clearly the platinum credit card of the Starbucks world…a Starbucks Reserve. What crap. In other crap, we also saw a resourceful, artisan small business model. Reselling elephant dung. 

Christmas decorations dangling in a shopping center. Speaking of Christmas, apparently we’ve entered…Europe?! Except everyone was wearing shorts. There was also no gluhwein or we may have been interested.

An inkling of historic charm. One of the many gates surrounding the perimeter of Old Town, where meandering monks reminded us…oh yeah! We’re in Thailand!!

Striking street art near a Loony Tuned car wash.

Our first Burmese meal we’ve ever had for $4.40 was at Nong Bee’s. It featured BEANS! A rare commodity….they were served up as a tea tree leaf salad with lentils, a bean soup and chicken curry dish. All were excellent. We sure hope things settle down for the Burmese people…we’d love to visit one day and eat more of this yumminess. On another meal, our last bowl of Khao Soi. 😋😢

It could be very easy to blow money on food in Chiang Mai, particularly in Nimman, but why do that when veggie/crab spring rolls from the One Nimman local food court were $2.60?! OMG! This “coconut” ice cream, however, was a total $3 rip off…vanilla ice cream with coconut pieces on top. Ah well, on to the next…there’s a feeling we’ll be getting durian ice cream instead at the airport….