Ape Caves, on Mt Saint Helens, has been on our NW to do list for awhile. We had both done the easy lower cave trail before, but this time we had our sights set on the more challenging (and much less populated) upper cave trail. More spelunking than hiking and at a steady 42F it’s essential to have very good headlamps/flashlights, layer up, wear sturdy shoes and good gloves and a warm hat. Oh, and a raincoat because it “rains” in this cave… a lot…

This is the main entrance which nearly everyone uses. You access both the lower and upper trails here. This entrance was inundated with people coming in and out, we seized this fleeting moment when the staircase was depeopled for this photo. Fortunately for us, everybody branched off toward the lower trail. On the upper trail, (1.5 miles), we were amazed not see a single soul during entire two hours we were hiking it. A little unnerving to be so alone in such a place, but also an eerily spectacular sensory experience. Especially if you turn off your lights in the pitch black, and just stand and listen. Wow!

You enter the upper cave by turning right and going under the second large set of metal stairs. (Not pictured above). Prepare for 27(!) at least house sized rock piles to scramble and monkey crawl over on your way through the lava tube. Take your time… definitely don’t want to break an ankle down here! No easy feat!

A mystery guest!? The shadows play creepy tricks on you throughout. This was one of the easy-to-maneuver sections. If you ever wanted to know what it might feel like to walk inside an artery this is your chance.

Be prepared to squeeze through some tiny or cramped spaces. Another you want to have a partner here, to help push you through. Not quite as small as it looks here though.

It’s a cave rat!

This picture is terrible but there is one part where you have no choice but to climb up an 8′ rock “waterfall.” (No actual water!) There are hand and footholds if you know where to look/grab, but it’s still a bit tricky.

The first skylight at about a mile. What a joy to see light again!! And all the moss growing nearby. Unfortunately, you’re not done yet. An exit this is not. You’ve got a little way further. Seeing the daylight reminded us of how easy it is to lose all track of time while caving. A very eerie sensation.

The stairway to heaven?!

Up and out of the darkness

It was easy to follow the lava tube trail but now… Where the hell am I?!

Fortunately, the lovely blue diamonds tacked to the trees will guide you the 1.3 miles back to civilization. P.S. In case you’re still wondering, there are no apes to be found. The cave was named after a Boy Scout Troop called “The Apes” in 1951 led by Scoutmaster Harry Reese. It was named because of their interest in the legend of Mt. St. Helens and its Native American tales of ole sasquatch.

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