Day 1: Karakol to Bulak Say Yurt Camp
15.6 kilometers, 6 hours, Elevation Gain: 970 meters, or 3,182 feet.
It has been more than two years since we’ve done our last overnight trek in Ecuador, and after concluding one of the most epic and rewarding hikes yet in the Tien Shan mountains of Kyrgyzstan, we keep asking ourselves why are we not doing this more often? One thing that has held us back has been location…the last year being in SE Asia, there have not have been a lot of options for this type of trekking, particularly with a suitable hiking climate. Another thing that has held us back has been my (Mandy’s) pain level, whether it be located in my foot/hip or springing up somewhere else in my body.
That said, we just finished ~31K over three days, some quite difficult, which included 1967 meters (6453 feet) of ascent and 1458 meters (4783 feet) of descent, but we finished with flying colors, give or take a few literal and figurative bumps in the road. Needless to say, the mind/body healing work I’m doing continues to be absolutely life-changing.
It didn’t take long to realize that Kyrgyzstan is easily already one of the most naturally ravishing countries we’ve ever set foot in, which isn’t too surprising considering 90% of its land mass is blanketed in mountain ranges.
The range we had been in thus far is called the Tien Shan Mountains, which appropriately means “Heavenly Mountains.” It is laden with stunning meadows…horses grazing……majestic evergreen trees…and glaciated waters.
After making all necessary preparations the day prior, including choosing the three consecutive days when the weather was most enticing, it all started with a Yandex ride ($5) to “Jaisan hotel,” just before the second bridge over the River Karakol. This is the point of no return where most (sane) taxi drivers drop off hikers heading to Ala Kul because the road simply turns into something resembling cottage cheese. Just prior to here, you pay the Karakol State Nature Park fee of about $3.50 each. Our taxi driver, Djanivek, was so smiley and kind we exchanged numbers with him in thoughts we might use him again.
And so we began at the second bridge, where we were first introduced to all the critters we may see while in backcountry Kyrgyzstan, including the brown bear, snow leopard, lynx, wolf, and killer squirrel. Unfortunately(?), we encountered none of them.
Off we go! Oh, one thing I forgot to mention in the animal category…the wild boar. Didn’t see him either, but funnily enough, they had several “boar crossing” warnings on the horrendous, albeit scenic road we’d be traversing down.
Pausing for our first lunch alongside the river, which would inevitably be the best one due to lack of refrigeration moving forward. Showing off our supermarket salads, which included an eggplant/tomato/pepper and cheese dish, and a red bean and carrot mix.
As permanent nomads, since we don’t hike all the time, pulling together our hiking uniform isn’t quite as polished as some of our counterparts. 🤣 The only thing that really mattered (on day two) was the trekking poles which we rented from 4Rent Karakol for $10 for the three days.
Greg pausing at our first breathtaking alpine meadow where the horses seemed to be freely grazing and savoring life…just like us.
A lake pervaded with moss and lichen. And naturally, the longer we journeyed into the mountains, the more impressive it would get.
However, we were still on something they call a “road” in Kyrgyzstan, so we also had to share the road with an occasional tank full of tourists who had decided to take the jouncy, and quite costly, way up.
After about 4 hours of relatively flat walking, we arrived to the first yurt camps, where we would find a plethora of 4×4 tanks and indestructible VW buses, as well as drinks, snacks and even wifi!
At this point, you turn left to cross the river and enter the real TRAIL! No more having to dodge “traffic.”
Crossing the Karakol River, which eventually empties into one of the largest’s alpine lakes in the world…Issyk-Kul.
Here we would fill up our water bottles one more time, which we would sip with our third and increasingly improved filtration system…the quite portable Life Straw Sip, which cost $30. It is designed to filter out 99.9% of bacteria, protozoa/parasites, and microplastics and is an essential piece in our travel kit. We loved it!
Get your glutes ready! Because, for the next two hours, we would begin a long slog up the mountain…which was quite alright, because the views continued to outdo themselves.
As one of our favorite things to do, we are quite happy to be back on the trail again.
And at long last, we finally spied the cluster of yurt camps we’d be staying at on night one. Entering our camp, which we reserved in advance through the “Destination Karakol” office in town. (Highly recommended during high season.) Unfortunately, the yurt camps are NOT the bargain they are say, in Nepal at $1/bed, and cost about $50/person for a community yurt bed, as well as breakfast and dinner.
The yurt camps have a fun and social atmosphere. It didn’t take us long to befriend Italian Giuseppe & his partner Francesca, as well as Czechs, David and Diana. When you arrive, they give you tea and snacks, including dried fruits, nuts, cookies, etc. The Italians managed to score the “honeymoon” private yurt, pictured in the back right.
Our community dining yurt, where three tables lined the perimeter. By chance, we sat with the Czechs, as well as an Israeli couple, Yuval and her partner, who also happened to be our yurt-mates. The two couples both happened to be on their honeymoon. We suspected they were cool people if they’d chosen Kyrgyzstan as their honeymoon destination and they definitely were!
Our meal had a bit to be desired based on the budget-busting price of the stay. It was a vegetable/meat soup, as well as a pile of flavorless pasta and salad. Trust me…our supermarket salads were better. They also offered vegetarian options, from which I’m 100% certain they just picked the pieces of meat out of the soup. Haha.
Greg also came back to the table quite triumphantly with a liter of beer. When I asked him how much that beer was, he looked sheepish as he admitted it was $6. Yes….clearly I’m the budget Nazi in our lives. That said, it was well earned and we both enjoyed it thoroughly 😉
After lots of chit-chat, beer, tea and carbs, it was time to check out the amenities. For the record, you really haven’t lived until you’ve done a number two in a precariously designed stick-a-loo.
The small lake near the camps where a couple brave ones (probably Norwegians) were shockingly swimming. The sun gives a last kiss to the mountain we would be climbing the next morning en route to Ala Kul.
Greg showing off our abode for the evening, where we would sleep shoulder to shoulder wedged between the two honeymooning couples. Fortunately, the blankets were heavy to protect us from the nearly-zero degree temperatures…and to shield us from any nearby nookie.
The next morning, after a quite unappetizing breakfast of a cold fried egg, a pile of buckwheat and a shriveled-dick-of-a-sausage we weren’t about to touch, we said goodbye to the friendly 16-year-old who seemed to be managing the camp. Wow…what responsibility for his age!
Our Day One Route.
Day 2: Bukal Say Yurt Camp—>Ala Kul Lake—>Askot Yurt Camp
6.1 km, ~ 8 hours, 980 meters (3215 feet) up, 320 meters (1049 feet) down
Day two of our Karakol trek was undeniably one of the most challenging days of hiking we’ve experienced since Peru’s Salkantay in 2022. But, the rewards at Ala Kul Lake, seemingly dropped like an icy gemstone amongst the glaciated peaks, and at the pinnacle of the pass, definitely leap high on our list of places that left us speechless.
This is true mountain scenery…raw and resplendent in every way, melded with authentic nomadic traditions and cultures of the Kyrgyz people. It is unquestionably an experience we’ll remember forever.
The day began from Bulak Say. From there, we would traverse across rugged terrain, and begin heading 4k up a mountain for the next three hours.
In this photo, you can see our yurt camp from the night before towards the bottom middle. And as usual, the eye candy kept getting better and better, including this dapper dude who I’d climb any mountain with…literal or figurative.
Much of the morning, we would steadily amble alongside this stream of glacial whisper, as the sun slowly began to glide upon the shadows. Other times, we would grunt and puff a bit less tranquilly. But, at last, we reached the peak of the cliff, where we would find a waterfall toppling as run-off….
When we first arrived to Ala Kul earlier in the morning. Wow. Of course, we took about an hour-long snack-filled respite while here soaking in the views, and refilling our water bottles with liquid that would make most water bottle manufacturers foam at the wallet.
Departing lakeside, our glutes were set for action again, as we continued to steadily climb above the lake edge for the next hour…
And just before the big kahuna, to reach the top of the pass, we paused for lunch which consisted of boiled eggs and mustard, cashews and dried apricots. We were going to need the energy for a final ascent, whose design seemed unaware of the concept of switchbacks.
Also, the air was getting thinner, so our lungs had to work even harder. To help amp up my mindset, I committed to a “game” I normally play that helps me pace arduous climbs…. count to 100 steps, take a breather, count to 100, take a breather, and every 500 steps, I drink water.
It was also quite motivating that every time we turned around, another snow-capped peak popped up to play. The 2.3k long lake rests around 3500 meters (11.5k feet) and means “motley” which is a nod to its ever-changing palette, depending on the light.
At last, we made it to the ridge, where a small cluster of other hikers were soaking in their gratifying reward. From here, we could see peaks that were pushing over 5000 meters (16k feet). Ours would also include this…an indulgence we rarely let ourselves have otherwise. This time it seemed well-earned considering we’d just conquered the equivalent of about three Eiffel Towers climbs. Funnily, a French guy was also savoring a Snickers at the top. 😂 Greg ate his like a chipmunk, making every nut count.
At this point, the clouds were already starting to thicken, but we got in our photo just in time, as we battled the crazy wind.
The official marker proclaimed we’d made it to 3920 meters, or 12,860 feet.
Of course, we still weren’t done for the day. Next, it was time for the taxing and precarious descent following a tedious line of other hikers, most carefully contemplating every step on the loose gravel and scree.
This is where you REALLY need your hiking poles and why there are no photos. It simply wouldn’t be safe to not pay close attention to each movement. Pictured here is the flatter halfway point where a cluster of horses had been valet parked.
From the epic halfway point, checking out our homes for the evening far below.
At 3:30, we arrived to Camp Aksot, also reserved through Destination Karakol. Here we were greeted with a warm welcome…a pot of fruit tea…a collection of cookies and dried fruits…and an extremely hardy nut, which, with enough effort, revealed an absolutely yummy candied pecan inside its tough exterior.
As we sat here enjoying our treats, it began to rain steadily. We had made it just in time! The wind also blew in a robust 70-year-old American guy, Mark, who had also just completed the same trail we did. Totally inspiring.
A bit later, we got showed to our yurt, which featured cots, cozy flannel sheets, giant sleeping bags, and even flip flops, which were much welcome after the day of hiking we’d had. We were also ecstatic to have it to ourselves…all in all, way comfier than the night prior. Additionally, the price was $5 cheaper per person making it $45/person, which included breakfast and dinner. It was still quite expensive, but we felt it was much better value than Bulak Say.
Also, this time, the squatty potty floor was made of real wood, not sticks! Comically, the next morning, we saw Mark emerge from it with only one slipper on. He had managed to drop the other one into the hole of no return. Oops. 🤣
Our yurt camp, with the mountain pass we had just descended in the background.
As other hikers began to arrive, we all congregated around a wooden stove…
…while we waited for our feast, which again was much improved over the plain pasta the night prior. This time, we finally got to have Plov, which is a cornerstone of Central Asian cuisine. It’s made of rice, carrots, onions and meat; in our case, chicken. It was a warm and comforting meal after a challenging hike. There was also a delicious salad, breads, fruits, sweets, and of course…lots of tea.
Somehow Greg and I once again got thrust into the “wedding seats” at the top of the table, consisting of almost all Gen Z’s and Millennials, minus Mark, mostly from the countries of Italy and the Netherlands. Afterwards, we were zonked and happily crawled into our private yurt for the evening.
Day 3: Askot Yurt Camp—>Altyn-Arashan(—>Karakol)
9km, ~4 hours, 1113 meters down (3651 feet)
Day three of our trek began as the weather had predicted…with precipitation. Of course, we hadn’t quite considered the obvious thing…that precipitation at 11,000+ feet would be in the form of the white stuff. So, after a night nestled deep in our flannel sheets and sleeping bags accentuated with booms of thunder, we woke to a facade of Christmas morning…in other words, not exactly idyllic hiking weather. And we had a very long slog…down…
Our yurt camp at 7:15 a.m. when we final emerged from our cozy cocoons. Most of our fellow campers were still sleeping, other than a couple who were shuffling towards the drop box, toilet paper clutched in frigid hand.
Gazing back toward the shrouded pass we’d descended the day before. After a (delayed) three-egg breakfast and some tea, we set off on the trail donning every layer we had, as the snow blew sideways.
And because of this, of course, the trail was also a mucky and slippery mess. Fortunately, it meandered its way steadily downhill and not straight downhill as the day before, making it much more manageable….
…until we arrived to a small river, which we somehow had to find a way to cross without any bridge or obvious stepping stones. Fortunately, Greg charted our course where the trekking poles once again became a godsend.
About an hour later, the rains subsided and we were left with nothing but a long and mucky tumble down and sunny skies! Eventually, we arrived to a yurt camp featuring a quite menacing German Shepherd where our Mapy app steered us wrong for the first time…ever. It told us to continue along the red trail on the same side of the river, (where the dog was), when in fact we needed to cross on this semblance of a bridge to the less obvious trails.
And, another 45 minutes of slogging later, we arrived to the hot springs “village” of Altyn Arashan. We could have chosen to stay another night here, but since we were double paying for accommodation back in Karakol, we decided to opt for this dream machine to take us the final journey back to Karakol.
The set price they were charging for this indestructible tank was 100 whoppers…USD…not even kidding. Fortunately, we found one to split 7 ways with a Motley Crue of twenty something’s from the UK, US, Portugal, Singapore and Japan, so it ended up being $34 for the two of us.
This bone-shaking, cliff-grazing ride was definitely not for the faint of heart, and was lightly narrated by the quirky Brit in the backseat who comically kept reminding us to “mind our heads” and when to shift our weight left and right to avoid…you know…tumbling off the edge.
We also had to all pile out of the Nightmare Machine and walk up a hill at one point. Fortunately, we did actually have a very skilled and knowledgeable driver on this muddy day.
The steady Russian base nicely accentuated my apprehensively glowing countenance…
….but even more entertaining was 50 Cent’s “In da Club” (which I failed to film) but impressed us to no end when these Gen Z’ers knew every word to OUR clubbing song!
Finally, we made it back to Karakol where we returned our trekking poles at “4Rent” which had English-speaking staff and great prices.
Day three route. In the end, we spent $258 for the entire three day/two night trek, which we did entirely independently other than Destination Karakol booking our yurts. It was pricey for us, but money very well spent. It’s one of the best treks we’ve done in a very long time.
