Brews, Bruges & A New Family
Greg and beer go together like wine and cheese, peanut butter and jam or strawberries and cream. But not just any ‘ol beer. As a former home brewer with a full-scale* operation in our basement, and full-time beer aficionado from the Beervana Capital of the US (Portland), beer for him is an absolute experience…a craft…a need.* A need that has been severely lacking in our travels in recent years. (*maybe a tad hyperbolic😂)
Therefore, we leaped at the chance to take a holiday housesit in one of the top three beer (and coincidentally Christmas!) destinations in Europe. But before that, we headed to Bruges, a brewtiful city where we would be graciously welcomed into the home of our friend Abby Denuyl’s extended Belgian family.
And welcome us they did…!
Greg would indeed be one be one of those lords a ‘leapin this year! We arrived to Bruges after a three-hour flight (78€ total) and a two-hour Flibco bus journey (36 € total) from the south Charleroi “cheapie” airport in Brussels. We were picked up by a tall and gregarious man, Thierry, and his ear-to-ear grinning granddaughter, Mogen. When we arrived to the house we were also welcomed by his wife, grandson, son and the most beautiful words to Greg’s ear…., “So, Greg, I heard you like beer a bit?” before proceeding to pull a selection of at least 20 of Belgium’s locally crafted beers from his magic Santa refrigerator.
Oh yes, it was Christmas indeed 🙂 And, Thierry’s wife, Carine, didn’t stop short of offerings during our time in Bruges either. She kicked off the first course with tiny shrimp in avocado cream sauce, a baked quail egg in an equally small shot glass, and followed it with absolutely delicious salmon and veggies.
We were so impressed when 10-year-old Mogen cleaned her plate which was heaped with things like spinach and asparagus and she admitted she loves eating and trying new foods. Although her mother tongue is Flemish (like Dutch), she has taught herself English by watching TV and is learning French in school. Jack, age 7, also had great English. We’re so jealous of that early exposure to language! And what sweet kids as well!
We arrived in the dark to the little village of Oostkamp, so it was joyous to awaken to this view out our window and a tiny dusting of snow.
Thiery took us into Bruges the next day where we landed in the beer and Belgian goods shop called 2Be Shop. It was like walking into a library of beer and beer related things with rooms and rooms of treats.
Kriek Lambic is a style of Belgian Beer that Mandy particularly loves made of sour Morello cherries. This is one popular example.
Trappist, or Monk Beer, is probably the most popular beer in Belgian which is made BY, not OF, Trappist monks. It must be brewed under the supervision of the monastic community and within the walls of the abbey. The bulk of the profits must be spent on social work. There are currently only 11 Trappist breweries world-wide, and six are in Belgium.
If monks don’t wet your whistle, here’s the “adults only” section (of the beer shop.) Guess this applies when you can legally drink at 16? 🤣
For lunch, Thierry kindly took us to the historic brewery called De Halve Maan (the Half Moon). Greg had Flemish beef stew made with Brugse Zot Dubbel, with fries and salad. And Mandy indulged on cheese croquettes, salad and fries, served with mayonnaise of course, because that’s what they do here.
One of the original bottles of their beer. (Contents previously swallowed in the 19th Century.) 😆
Although the brewery dates from 1856, today’s operation is very modern. There is also the option to tour of course, but we decided to wait until we had more time in Brussels.
Some people simply wanna get drunk in Bruges, and that’s ok too. In fact, there’s a special option just for them… one meter of beer!
We kinda wanted to get drunk too to celebrate a fantastic World Cup game and the victory of Argentina.
Exploring Bruges
It’s no secret. Bruges, the Flemish-speaking capital of the Flanders province of Belgium, is one of the most enchanting and also, most popular medieval fairytale cities in Europe. Every turn in its Old Town is another utterly captivating scene, making you reach for your camera, even when your fingers are growing frigid from the wintry North Sea air. It was one of those bitterly cold days when a slick layer of black ice laid just waited at every street corner to take you out.
We got one full day of exploration while there and had planned to stay the last night in the center to soak in the festive holiday market and lights, complete with a view from the soaring 366-step belfry tower. Unfortunately, the night after the World Cup finals, Mandy fell quite ill with a stomach virus for two days, so there went that idea.😝 At least we got this one day!
The canals of Bruges, built in the 12th Century, have been the winding and pulsing arteries of the city for centuries to connect the heart of the city to the North Sea. We got the winter special, intermingled with chunks of ice and frost.
Bruges’s architecture is predominantly Gothic, with brickwork dating from the Middle Ages. Ever since the 17th century, wooden houses were forbidden as city fires were unforgiving. Most of houses in Bruges’ you can see today date back to the 16th and 17th century and to the 19th and 20th century when many were restored in a Neogothic style that gives Bruges its authentic medieval vibes.
A street leading into the main square, iced by the Provincial Court in the background. The Provincial Court was the most stunning building in the main square, at least according to us.
Absolutely picturesque.
The Bruges City Hall. The city has been governed here for more than 600 years.
Lovely day for an ice ride
It doesn’t even have to be Christmas to look Christmas-y!
One of the few wooden houses still in existence.
Where’s the snow? Unfortunately, it never came for us in Belgium. So much for turning this into a proper jingle jangle sleigh ride!
Young backpacker Greg had a beer here 23 years ago.
There are so many places you go that are not exactly as you envision them, and we must admit, and the Market Square of Bruges was one of them. Although the buildings encompassing the square were gorgeous, even amidst the steely grey sky, it was disappointing for us, as well as Thierry, to see that the traditional wooden Christmas market booths had been replaced by complete eyesores…also known as newfangled and far less jolly shipping containers. While we appreciate the efforts to repurpose, they took away the magic of this storybook setting and any chance for a nice photo.
The heart of Bruges is dominated by the 13th Century Belfry Tower, which has 366 steps to the top. Greg climbed it 2001 and Mandy had plans to do so the night we returned to the square, but unfortunately she chose to get the stomach flu instead 🤣
Thierry, our local guide for the day, explained some history about the Belfry Tower to Greg.
The Bruges coat of arms.
Fortunately, both world wars left the historic city centre virtually unscathed.
The entire inner city is considered an UNESCO world heritage site.
Shivering our tuchuses off! And yes, we have on every layer we have. It’s very rare on our travels when we’re this cold! 🤣
The city’s canals, first constructed in the early 12th century to connect Flemish Bruges to the North Sea, played a critically important role in the region’s economic development during the Middle Ages.
Despite the cold and Sunday morning status, the city was quite hopping with tourists. Not sure we’d want to be here in summer! Thierry says it’s an absolute madhouse, which he typically avoids.
The Basilica of the Holy Blood, built in 1134, is best known as the repository of a vile containing a cloth with the blood of Jesus, brought to the city by Thierry of Alsace after the 12th century Second Crusade. There is no definitive evidence for or against the authenticity of the relic, but it’s brought out every September for a ceremony and viewing. (Wikipedia)
While inside the 2Be Mood Shop, we discovered more information about this drop of blood. During recent renovation works, this secret niche was uncovered where the relic of the holy blood was hidden in the year 1578.
From the Bonifacius bridge, you can spot a teeny tiny stained-glass window. Depending on who you ask, it’s known as the smallest gothic window in Bruges, Europe or…the world for those extra hyperbolic people. Thierry told us the story of a wife catching her husband cheating through this window and his son told a very different legend. Clearly, there’s a bit of debate about it for many reasons. 😁 Whatever it may be, the building is now the Gruuthusemuseum and an excellent “window” on the life of upper class Bruges during the city’s time of European prominence in the late Middle Ages. 🤷🏼♀️
Did you know that the Smurfs are Belgium’s second most famous export (after waffles)!? They were created by Belgian comic artist Peyo (a.k.a. Pierre Culliford) in 1958. Called “Les Schtroumpfs” in his native French, they first appeared as side characters in the fantasy comic “The Flute with Six Holes” where they are shown living in a barren, rock-covered place known as the Cursed Land. The word “schtroumpf” came from a dinner conversation where Culliford momentarily forgot the word for salt, so he made one up and asked his friend to pass the “schtroumpf.”
“Smurf” is the Dutch translation of “schtroumpf.” Deseret(.)com. Gargamel laughs at Mandy’s “Grouchy Smurf” impersonation, and in the second photo we both just look like we have to poo.
Another famous comic from Belgium is Tin Tin, created in 1929. We don’t know a lot about Tin Tin so I guess that still puts us in the “young” camp?! 
The Bonifacius bridge is a perfect symbol of Bruges’ romantic appeal. Oh that water looks so frigid!
This 11th Century building was astoundingly used as St John’s hospital up until the 1970’s!
A typical house in central Bruges.
Belgians clearly refuse to have normal fountains. In Brussels, we have young lads pissing and in Bruges, horses drooling. The fountain was historically used for horses to have access to water, naturally. Although Greg thought about having a swig.
The local swans of Bruges are not just any ‘ol swans, explained Thiery. There was once an emperor named Maximilian from Austria who was not popular and waged heavy taxes. The people of Bruges revolted. They began rioting across the city, burning houses, and killing his supporters. It went on for six year until the emperor and his advisor were captured. Maximilian was forced to watch as they beheaded his friend and trusted advisor Lanchals – also known as Long Neck. The emperor, according to legend, eventually escaped and took his revenge on the local people. As a tribute to his friend, he forced them to keep 101 white swans (long necks) on the water of Bruges for all eternity. If they failed to do so, Bruges would fall to ruin. Whether a work of fact or fiction, the townspeople and the city have honoured this curse since it was laid down.
Wondering on, we stumbled into the Beguinage “Ten Wijngaerde” Begijnhof complex. A Beguinage is a mystery word for nunnery complex. In the 17th Century, Women typically ended up here whose husbands died early, or were just single, and they needed a place to go.
In this community, women accepted to submit to monastic rules without taking formal religious vows. Bruges’s Beguinage is separated from the rest of the city by a large wall and moats, making it feel like small village inside history. It’s incredibly peaceful and tranquil.
Thierry and Greg pause for a breather.
A typical Bruges neighborhood.
After lunch in Bruges, Thiery drove us north to show us one of the biggest ports in Europe. It is from this port, that nearly all European cars are exported around the world and vice versa. Belgium is in fact ranked as the 11th largest export economy in the world!
Bruges was once one of Europe’s richest cities in the world thanks to this waterway, aka the North Sea and historically known as the German Ocean. Today, it is still the busiest shipping area in the world. It looked pretty peaceful when we checked it out, however.
