From Ljubljana to Stockholm
After a week of rapid and costly travel through Slovenia, we headed to cooler climates and to discover new and old friends up north in Scandinavia for the next month! We were also eager for full stomach satiation in the airport lounges after a week of grab-and-go groceries and strict budgeteering. This time our free flight was booked using Avios miles transfer from British Airways to FinnAir (part of the Avios family) in part using the Avios points we’ve been socking away through our Airbnb rentals (2 pts. Per $1) and a 20% Chase UR point transfer bonus. Any traveler can take advantage of the first part of this, and US travelers holding a Chase Sapphire card, the second.
We woke up bright and early this morning and hopped into a pre-reserved 25€ cab having no other option to reach the Ljubljana airport from Kranj. And, we were first in the lounge…a lounge with the most leisurely (aka stupid slow) coffee machine we’ve ever encountered. After getting my sputtering and belching latte pour, I headed for second priority….to fill my water bottle, filling it halfway with champagne before realizing my error. Damn, what a drunk I must be! 😂
Hours later, we arrived in my 87th country. Of course it doesn’t actually count as such because we’re not leaving the airport….
First time on Finn Air, and maybe hearing the Finnish language. I confirmed…like its “sister” language, Hungarian, it sounds like…Martian. Or maybe it’s…Venetian?
Welcome to the world’s happiest country…and where it takes 45 seconds to dispose of anything.
And a terrific lounge, complete with piles of salads and vegetarian options. And more importantly, chewy and lip-smacking gummy candies, which, much to my delight, seem to be a staple in Scandinavian diets, alongside stinky fish. Anyhow, gummies are my true sweet treat weakness (minus the licorice ones which I have to shove off with the provided tongs.) Seriously, who here actually likes this flavor?!?
After a handful of chewiness and two glasses of free wine (a REAL hot commodity in these pricey alcohol parts) to wash them down, it was time to use the amenities.
As is customary in Europe, you get to enjoy your wee with nearly floor to ceiling partitions. But what makes it even better, there was also an accompanying, soothing soundtrack of a babbling brook and birdsong. Wow! I like Finland already….😂
Although I really could have used a sauna in the lounge for the complete package….
The Story of Our Hotel
When we landed in Stockholm’s Arlanda Airport, which is conveniently located absolutely nowhere near the center, (like in many European cities), we naturally had to find the cheapest way possible way to get to our hotel in Sundbyberg. So, we hopped the 583 bus to Märsta and transferred to the commuter train, which ended up being about $4.50/each as opposed to the whopping $20 fare for the Express Bus. This was all blissfully integrated with Google, right on time, and payable to the driver by tapping our phones. Welcome to Sweden…an enchanting land where things just work…indeed! No wonder the people are happy!
We made our way to the Hyatt Story Hotel…NORTH…a cafe/hotel artsy establishment which definitely wins the award for most uber chic Hyatt we’ve stayed in. And we got it for a terrific trade-in at 5k points a night which we transferred from our Chase Sapphire card. Of course…we booked before the devaluation though you can still get for 6k.
Snagging transport in Stockholm feels like an absolute breeze after a summer in the Balkans.
Then, the man who welcomed us to our hotel looked creepy and meditative at the same time.
The lobby of the hotel felt more like a coffee shop. Not surprising, considering that’s exactly what it was. And a bar! From which we scored two free local craft beers to welcome us to Sweden. Yes, we were digging this three-night stay already! For the cost of one night at the crappy Ramada (15k points) with rips in the curtains in Slovenia. 🤣 Thank you Chase Sapphire!
Everything at the Story Hotel was tastefully designed and decorated, right down to the wooden key cards and our cozy ~$150 room, which we got for the equivalent of $50/night. And unlike the Wyndam by Ramada, it also had a stunning hand painted sink, a wide assortment of shower and sink goodies for luxuriating in, as well as a giant palm sized button for flushing the toilet so you can’t miss. The rumors are true. Life is good is Sweden.
And….FREE breakfast! Wahoo!! Greg enjoying his coffee beforehand in the cafe where it was served. You know it’s bougie when they have a whopping bowl of avocado for all the millennials (and Gen X/Millenial grey-zoners like me) to smear on their toast, as well as plenty of other options to stuff ourselves at brunch so we only have to eat one other meal of the day (linner, of course).
Other things much appreciated after three months in the Balkans…
Outside the hotel, the design and experience-driven world flourished. I’ve seen giant and perma Jenga, Chess and Connect Four, but this was the first Twister. Leave it to a Swede to contort their bodies and stick their (presumably sexy) bums up in the air in public. 🤣
We did nothing but rest on day one so our other meal would come from Willy’s, a cheaper grocer that definitely did not feel like one with their fantastic salad bar selections, all with nutritional info and ratings. We may have been traveling fast but we didn’t have to eat like it here. Two healthy and delicious salads came to about $11. Can’t imagine the housekeeper’s face when she saw all our containers in the ridiculously small rubbish bin. 😅
Of course, we couldn’t resist a pastry from the market either. This Vaniljbulle literally means vanilla bun and is a popular snack for fika (a traditional Swedish snack and coffee break, of which they have regularly.) Yum 😋
Exploring the City of Stockholm
Although we’d been to Sweden before, this was our first jaunt into the country’s dazzling east coast capital, built on 14 islands. We had few expectations, but were rewarded immediately by its endless and walkable exploration opportunities, enviable progressiveness, calm demeanor, bursts of charm and color, as well as the icing on the cake…a sparkling and sunny day, which makes the seduction all the more inevitable.
Stockholm sits where the Baltic Sea and Lake Mälaren meet, completely encompassed by water and connected by numerous foot and traffic bridges. It’s also peppered with parks and a landscape that quickly evolves into forests, lakes and natural areas as you fan out from its core. Though we’re not huge city lovers, and we’ve clearly only scratched the surface, we quickly realized this is easily one we would choose to spend more time in.
Stockholm dates back to 1252 and its Gamla Stan (Old Town), which occupies a small island between the modern center and Södermalm, is a web of inviting alleyways and cobbled enchantment. Near the heart of Gamla Stan, I stood in one of the most bustling and iconic thoroughfares.
One thing you will see everywhere as you walk around the city is Dala horses…basically Sweden’s mascot. This brightly painted traditional folk art symbol was original made in the Dalarna region of Central Sweden, made popular in the 19th Century by rural woodworkers, particularly during the long winter months when they required extra income. Horses were significantly important to Swedish farming and transportation, so the wooden horse wasn’t just an arbitrary toy, but a representation of something genuinely central to rural life.
We started our (self-guided) walking tour of the city at Skinnarviksberget, which was a rocky hilltop offering sweeping views of the cityscape and water. Apparently it gets packed for sunsets, but was completely deserted in the morning. We then followed it east to Mariaberget, a more formal pedestrian promenade with also far more tourists, where the views get even more enticing. This is also when we snuck in some playtime at Ivor Lo’s Park (see above).
A charming street scene in this neighborhood, and what looks like a daunting Gothic black church, which is actually a no longer operating historic elevator structure built in 1886 called Mariahissen. It once connected the lower streets near the water with the higher neighborhood above. More progressive thinking by the Swedes…
From near here, we crossed the pedestrian bridge into postcard perfect Gamla Stan, where multiple people were scattered on the comfy reclining benches desperately soaking in the last days of summer sun.
Wandering into Gamla Stan, we stumbled upon a store called “Tasty America,” so naturally we were magnetized to enter to see if they knew their stuff. They mostly did.
The entire store was filled with processed garbage..our loving gift to the world. However, some of the junk was definitely Japan’s, not America’s doing, while a couple items, decidedly British. Other items were a complete throwback to our childhoods and we marveled at the fact that the store’s merchandiser had discovered them. Also, the prices were insane, which made us wonder if tariffs were in motion, or they were just upcharging like a con man. (Or probably a bit of both).
Items to note:
- Never seen a jar of Cadbury spread. And, a jar of Skippy cost $13
- The seemed to offer “Salad Cream” in lieu of ranch dressing (or maybe it was just looted after World Cup). Salad cream cost $13 as well.
- As usual the selection of Pringles was adapted for other parts of the world, not the US. They offered “Savuer de Sauce Chili Douce” and “Chili et Lime,” which they clearly brought across the sea from France (presumably to avoid tariffs,) Honey Mustard, Ketchup, Hot Honey, and my favorite… Burger King Chicken Royale. A can of Pringles set you back $9.
- Big Tom=definitely a Brit
- 80’s candy throwbacks we appreciated included Gushers, Bottle Caps, Big League Chew, Bubble Tape, Pop Rocks, and Laffy Taffy. Seriously, it’s remarkable we have any teeth at all…
- We’d never heard of “Nuclear Sludge,” though it sounds like it would have marketed nicely alongside Garbage Pail Kids.
Moving along, we took a cruise down Stockholm’s narrowest street at 90 cm. This tiny alley dates back to the 1500s and was named after a German merchant who apparently looked at this tiny gap between buildings and thought, ‘yes this seems practical’, the place has become one of the city’s most photographed little corners. (The Compass Guy/Google)
But, it’s important to note, even in Old Town on a gorgeous August day, it’s possible to escape the crowds, even for a moment. The cobbled alleyways were absolutely addictive.
Unlike this tourist gauntlet, Västerlånggatan. With aromas of overpriced coffee, chocolate, cinnamon and sugar wafting out of the shops, we feel we deserved a discernible prize for restraining ourselves from all the temptations.
…which is supremely difficult when promoted by your favorite childhood adventure hero.
To deter yourself, I recommend looking up. There are fabulous images to be soaked in on every block. For example, this woman who looks like she’s having a really sexy dream (on a pumpkin pillow) after falling asleep gently reclined on a Flix-Chariot.
The Parliament House of Stockholm inaugurated in 1905 and connected by underground tunnels.
Moving on, we paused at the Kungliga Slottet, or Royal Palace, which is the official workplace of the King of Sweden, although the royal family lives at other residences. It has more than 600 rooms, making it one of Europe’s largest royal palaces still used for official purposes. Since Sweden is a constitutional monarchy, the king doesn’t govern the country. His role is primarily ceremonial and representative. As a tourist, you can check it for about $25, which includes a free toilet visit, which is mainly what we were after.
We didn’t really want to see the king’s filing cabinets, nor use his toilet, so we instead went to the nearby FREE Källargränd Urinoar, which is the oldest public urinal in the city built in 1890 and still in operation. Shockingly, Google proclaimed the surrounding area offered “a strong urine order.” Obvi. It was also obvi that I wouldn’t be having my girl wee in this location, though it was entertaining to lurk behind my man in action.
Because I didn’t have the right plumbing, instead I had to seek out a paid public toilet, which normally go for about $.50-$1. (Naturally payable by tapping your phone). Fortunately, a nice lady in front of me held the door and allowed me to wee fee-free!
Having taken care of business, we were startled to see soldiers marching towards us…directly toward us…in unison. We suspect they were heading to the Royal Palace for the daily changing of the guard. We’ve sat through one too many of these ceremonies to watch it again, but nearly getting tramped on by a slew of sexy and equally gendered Swedish soldiers was enough to get my heart pounding. (Yes, there is forthcoming video footage of me being THAT tourist). 😆
Let’s fill up the water bottle so we can wee some more!
Back in Stortoget…which means BIG Square, aka the main historic square in Gamla Stan. The colorful buildings that surround are some of the city’s most photographed sites with the rainbow-colored facades dating back to the 1600-1700s. The square itself dates back even further to the 13th Century when Stockholm was founded and today the Nobel Prize museum, founded by yes, a Swede, is located right alongside it.
Saint Jacob’s Church, with a striking red interior
Our free brunch had worn off from the hotel, so it was time to seek out our second big meal of the day…LINNER. And, thanks to the recommendation from a local friend, we knew exactly where we were heading.
Yes. To the Swedish giant of…..IKEA. Because apparently the locals go here regularly, not just for puzzle-by-numbers furniture like the rest of the world, but for lunch! And, like any good Swedish business, IKEA offers both meatballs AND vegetarian plant balls, complete with a side of mashed, peas and lingonberry sauce.
We got two meals, and two robotic ice creams for about $19, which we felt was very good value for Sweden. Quite tasty!
Considering it was about 3:00 on a Monday afternoon, most other Swedes were having their mandatory fika breaks while soaking in the sun.
Speaking of soaking up the sun, this lady, Margareta Krook, is known for her perpetually bronzed and warm tummy, which she surprisingly encourages passersby to touch.
The story goes: this renowned performer, celebrated throughout Sweden, was offered a statue in her likeness. However, she didn’t want a cold and lifeless statue like most. Instead, she requested a heated statue that maintains a constant temperature of 37 degrees year-round using a heating loop. I’m sure this unique feature makes her extra cuddly during the dead of winter.
Everywhere you turn, Stockholm seems to be a marvelous city which we couldn’t do justice for during our one day visit. That said….who needs a petsitter? We would definitely return one day. 😉
Where the Little Ones Go
There’s one thing we definitely observed during our time in Sweden…little ones. Oodles of baby bumps, wobbly mini humans, hip dads balancing coffee cups with other handfuls, and lots of good ‘ol family-friendly living. I guess this is what it’s like when you live in a land of 480 paid maternity and paternity days per pregnancy. 🤔 Alongside this were fancy prams with hard-core suspension systems, high-end children’s boutiques and some of the best playgrounds we’ve ever seen. Best not because they were made of modern day materials with high safety standards, but because they were imaginative and fun, involving multiple playhouses and structures. One was even the “home” of Pippi Longstocking!
It’s not super elaborate, but showcases the important parts…like starting a proper strength training program at age 8. (Thanks for sending me here, Jill!) Other fun ship-like structures in the playground that Pippi would have appreciated. And there’s a particularly fun connection to the park that it’s in: Astrid Lindgren actually wrote a story called Pippi in Humlegården, in which Pippi goes to the park and builds Villa Villekulla there with Tommy and Annika.
Another playground we loved checking out was Ivar Lo’s Park, which has a gorgeous view of the city, as well as lots of room for creativity, which seemed to be centered around farm life.
Got mjölk?!? Order up!! One glass is 10 Swedish Krona, or about $1, according to this sign. Not sure this has been adjusted for inflation. 😅
What an inventive place to play!!
And here’s another creeper hanging out without children in a playground…I swear! We’re just checking out the view, officer!!
Friends & Daily Life in Stockholm
Stockholm was a stunning and unexpected surprise for us, but the main reason we came and stayed for bit longer was for the people. Turns out, I’ve been accruing a number of friends in this city for quite awhile and it was finally time for a visit. Here’s a few peeks at our “daily life” during our four days here.
Rebecca was one of my good friends at yoga teacher training in India in 2020. Of course, any person from that training I’d be happy to see again, but she was surprisingly the first I’d crossed paths with again. She picked me up from our hotel in her car, glowing and positively pregnant with a flawless basketballed belly, alongside her cute little westie.
From there, we drove out to the Drottningholm Palace, which is the residence of the Swedish royal family. Evidently, it’s not just a palace, but an UNESCO World Heritage Site dating from the 17th and 18th Centuries. Its architecture was heavily influenced by Versailles, which isn’t too surprising from the look of it. Anyhow, it was a lovely place for a stroll with the mother-to-be and her pup.
Another friend who I was shocked to see, because I didn’t know she even lived in Stockholm was Brooke. Brooke is an American I also met at Yoga Teacher Training and she has since found the love of her life, who happens to be a Swedish guy. Nice choice! Haha. Fortunately, she saw one of our posts and invited us over for lunch, which happened to be a 10-minute walk from our hotel in Sundbyberg. Definitely a small and serendipitous world.
Back in front of our hotel, cargo crates bedecked the sidewalk, which were all gently campaigning for the upcoming elections. We learned Swedes have basically eight parties to choose from. What’s that like?!
The T-Centralen Metro was one of the few we checked out, though we know this city is loaded with artsy and thought-provoking stations…90 of its 100, in fact!
This one is the famous blue section, which opened in 1975 and embraced its natural cave-like appearance rather than covering up the exposed rock. The ceilings and walls were painted blue and white, with stylized vines and leaves running through the rocks because the artist (Ultvedt) wanted the busy interchange to feel calm and restful, which is pretty clever for such a hurried place. The white arches also evoke old church vaults, which contribute to that surreal feeling of being inside an underground cathedral. The last detail to note is the silhouettes of workers—electricians, painters and carpenters—who actually built the station.
We wanted to check out a lot more metro stations, but with the weather being so gorgeous, we made being outside a priority instead. That can definitely wait for a rainy or dark day when we return….
The design continues from its stations into its carriages, and if you look closely, you might find a deliberately hidden piece of metro art embedded within its train seats. We found this little girl holding a balloon in one of the newer trains. And apparently there are other tiny figures hidden all over, including Pac-Man, hearts, the Three Crowns of Sweden, and so many other symbols. Apparently the city has intentionally made the subway full of things you only notice when you slow down and look. What a wonderful way to bring presence to a rushed commute.
Besides being the world’s longest art gallery, often caked with poignant political or social commentary, Stockholm has a stellar rail network, which is completed integrated with its buses, trams and ferries as well. It’s also one of the more expensive networks in the world coming in at $4.60/ride (up to 90 minutes).
Other costs: $25 for a men’s haircut, or $36 for a women’s. Considering we’d see $79 for a men’s AND women’s haircut in Norway the following month, we thought it was a pretty good deal…
Even their 7-11’s are well designed and classy-looking…complete with lower mood lighting instead of harsh fluorescents and stocked with healthy salad bars and ready-made options (all with food grades).
But of course they’ve still got their obligatory wall of gummied candies which you can scarf with a lot less guilt than back in the States thanks to EU regulations banning many more unsafe additives and dyes. Fortunately…some of this is finally changing in the US.
In other instances of same, same but different…loads of Swedes stand in line for an American Express promo bag from the “Members Truck.” Everyone likes a good swag bag…in the developed world, anyways.
Sidewalks as wide as the roads in Sundbyberg.
For our final nights in Stockholm, we headed out to Älta for a taste of quintessential and stinkin’ cute suburban life. Here we stayed with a special family I go WAY back with…the Eks, or Stockman-Eks, as they are now called in this household. I met Julia and her sister Olivia in 2003 when they were 9 and 11 years old and I was 23, managing and doing events for a swim and tennis club in Greensboro, NC. Although I’d seen Olivia eight years ago on our first trip to Sweden, it was the first time seeing Julia since she was 13.
What a treasure to see them together again after 23 years and spend an evening with them all. And it was serendipitous as well that Olivia happened to be in the city for a medical conference.
The salmon-cake creation of Jesper, Julia’s husband, who just returned to work after his second 6-month paternity leave so Julia could head back to work after her second. Now that’s what I call an equal partnership! Another of Julia and Jesper’s creations….four-year-old Elmer.
During the day, while they were at work and preschool, Greg and I borrowed their car to head out to one of the nearby natural areas for a long walk. It was great to get out and soak in our last sun of Sweden, because the clouds would be shifting very soon….
