India is an absolutely insane country…unlike anything we’ve ever experienced anywhere, and without a doubt, any traveler to cross its borders will probably say something similar. Had we only experienced the northern bits of Lucknow and the Golden Triangle of New Delhi, we may very well have written off the country entirely. However, Mandy was set on doing Yoga Teacher Training, which would take us to Arambol, Goa, typically touted as a free-loving hippie haven on the central western coast. And it redeemed the country for us 100% giving us a real feeling of home in the longest place we had stayed anywhere at that point in our travels. In fact, we loved it so much that one day we hope to go back and experience this unprecedented world again.

But getting there from Sri Lanka was another story…

It’s absolutely certain that a 24-hour commute from Sri Lanka to Goa will keep you on your toes. It included: two planes (both with delays), three taxis, one blackout, two overnight trains (the first of which was canceled,) and a complete cluster of events at the train station that nearly led us to turn around and head back to Sri Lanka. ? The route went from Colombo to Chennai and Chennai to Hubballi by air, a train ride to Goa and a taxi from Goa to Arambol.

A lady in front of Mandy in the security line to board the Chennai flight nearly went ballistic on the security official because he wanted to take her plastic bottle of water, along with the massive pile of other people’s half-filled bottles. (I guess this is what happens when you’re from a city which literally didn’t have enough water last summer.) 

The funny thing is, after a comical head wobble, she opened up her bag, and dumped the water right into a reusable water bottle directly in front of the official, proceeding through the line. Mandy also proceeded through the line with her filled reusable bottle. No problems. Isn’t this whole water ban on planes getting a little ridiculous?

Waiting for the plane…Indian style.

Flying into Chennai. Our third entrance into India was the most uneventful experience yet! Other than the two-hour delayed plane, no issues. Yay!

And flying into the modest city (by Indian standards) of Hubballi (Hubli), India looked as tame as an Indiana farmland.

Their airport was sparkling clean, orderly, and blissfully devoid of crowds and chaos with one baggage carousel. A little different than our previous landings of lines and luggage battles in Lucknow and Mumbai?

15 hours in we arrived to the Hubballi train station where the real fun would begin when we found out our 11:30 pm train was cancelled. Thankfully we spotted this “inquiry” window with seemingly organized “in” and “out” signage to help with line flow. 

Although it looks relatively empty in the picture that can change in a heartbeat, when Greg had to use it, he received several knocks to the ribs as people shoved and shouted over him, blatantly side cutting in line, as he tried to yell into stupid tiny inquiry hole. (Side note: how on earth did the Brits ever handle this queue disrespecting mentality?! ?) 

Anyhow, it took five trips through different ticketing queues before we finally figured out what the game plan for handling a train cancellation when we’d prebooked our tickets online. After talking with several train station officials, battling free-for-all “queues”, braving rude/confused looks, fighting through the Indian railways website to cancel our previous train, we then filled out a “reservation cancellation” form at the ticket window (because…Indian bureaucracy ?‍♂️) But Greg finally got us rescheduled on a 11:50 pm train for $11 more than our first one thanks in large part to the blessing of one Good Samaritan local who overheard Greg’s plight while in a queue and took pity on him enough to help out. In the end, we emerged victorious (even getting an enthusiastic smile and thumbs up from the ticket window attendant when he issued the tickets)

We then went through the same (45 minute) process trying to order food, which was only intensified by a blackout that happened midway through. Despite this, everyone continued to yell, work and eat by light of their smartphones. God bless technology. Fortunately, it came back on, and in order to get the food, Mandy put up her dukes and pretended she was back in college trying to order a beer at a crowded bar to get attention. Elbows out, boobs in, (because its a conservative country), and take no crap. But the good news is…the food was damn delicious.

Pretty sure this little girl was being pushed against her will to sit next to Mandy, so her parents could take her picture with the foreign white lady.

We do have to admit, we were quite impressed by the signage organization in the Hubballi train station. All the platforms were clearly labeled and there were even lit signs on the platform to indicate where the sections of the train were before it arrived. You don’t realize how helpful this is unless you’ve wandered the length of an enormous ~30 carriage train looking for your assigned car, and seats.

Climbing aboard our “A/C” (not A/C) third class sleeper at around midnight was fun as we fumbled our way through the darkness to try and find our bunks, which was in a pod of 6 bunks. 

Your ticket includes two clean and folded(!) sheets in sanitary bags, and an equally clean pillow which is actually firm enough to support your weight on the bunk which is comparable to the thickness of an exercise mat. There are also individual charging stations for your devices. All in all, it’s not a bad way to spend 7 hours ($26) being rocked to sleep by the gentle lull of the tracks and the snores of strangers nearby.

Arambol

Arriving to our apartment in Arambol was a welcome relief. It was tucked away from the beach on a quiet street.

Our new hosts, Lindsay (who was Canadian!) and Bunny, were the best. They stocked the fridge with beer, water, and fruit, supplied us with multiple toiletries and all in all offer a very cozy place in which we called home for a month ($21/night.) We were very excited for a change of pace, getting in a routine and unpacking for a month. Because Mandy was in yoga teacher training at Diya Yoga, we fell in a comfortable daily routine where she would go to classes 12 hours a day, and Greg would work on other projects. It was wonderful. We loved the people, energy and vibe of this lovely beach town and were very sorry when we had to move on.

The Main Street of Arambol is lined with enticing shopping, restaurants, bars and cafes. And the cutest clothes ever at ridiculously cheap prices!!

One of the many produce stands Greg would frequent to prepare the meals.

Arambol Beach was packed with tourists, mostly Europeans and Russians, but never felt obnoxiously crowded.

Catching a rare sunset. Rare because Mandy was usually in class when this happened.

Arambol Beach. The sun never stopped shining the whole month and high temperatures blissfully ranged from 83-90 degrees Fahrenheit (28-32 C)

More street scenes. We loved having a scooter for the month. Greg sweetly got up at 6 am everyday with Mandy to take her to school and pick her back up at 7 pm. There was no way she was learning to drive a scooter while dodging the crazy crowds or ambling doe-eyed cows (sometimes humping) in the middle of intersections.

Near our apartment. Just loved the color of these homes

Little churches dot the roadside everywhere in Goa.

The selection of natural products was insane and unbelievably cheap. An example was the Biotique face moisturizer and sunscreen we bought for about $3. This sells for about $9 on Amazon. If we had been heading back to the States, we would have been participating in some major drop shipping with this stuff.

Third dentist appointment of our journey. Checkup/Cleaning was $20.

We got so accustomed to seeing the same animals everyday near our place. From dogs, to cats, to monkeys, to cows to pigs. We will miss these little guys most of all. We still don’t really have any clue what they do with all these pigs. Pork is missing from all menus so they seem to just roam free. Love it.

The Love Temple. One of many places in Arambol that offers healing practices. If you wanna heal or find personal enrichment, Goa is THE place to go…you’ll find sound meditations, tantric yoga, ecstatic dance, clown workshops, any type of massage, reiki, laughter workshops, spiritual enlightenment workshops…the list is endless.

We love Arambol too!

Mama and baby near our apartment.

Every night at sunset there was a lively night market on the beach where mostly expats, and a sprinkling of locals, would sell artisan crafts, twirl fire and hula hoops, play musical instruments, hold drum circles and generally live a happy, carefree life. We loved going down there when we got the chance. Reminded us a bit of Portland’s Last Thursday, but with a big beach bonus!

Mmm. Kingfisher. The beer of choice in Goa is made from a combination of rice, corn and sugars. ? Still we had our share because at $2 a pop, they still tasted palatable in the hot sun.

Another cute church!

More street scenes.

 Some of the delicious food. All veg!

A colorful Hindu temple near our apartment

Mandy’s Experience at Diya Yoga

First day of school! She was so excited to be immersed in yoga full time, but she had no idea the meaning this experience would bring to her life, nor the lifelong friendships she would make.

From the yoga shala at Diya, the students looked over this luscious jungle everyday, and would regularly see bald eagles swooping above, as well as a rare parrot that flew through class and monkeys that visited the palm trees at eye level.

Another view from the studio.

Full moon rising, also as seen from the studio.

Mandy’s reflections after week one: “Doing your best is always enough. Yoga teacher training is…intense. I never dreamed how physically and mentally depleting 12 hours a day of thinking, breathing and learning yoga could be. This was amplified because I got sick with yet another stomach bug gift from India on day 2. It made the week very challenging to get through including one day of which I had to frustratingly miss. Acceptance of my situation was key.That said…everything went uphill rapidly yesterday when I did my first introduction and taught in practicum, giving me a much-needed boost of confidence. This was followed by waking up in the middle of the night full of energy and excitement, like a kid waiting for Christmas morning, and a powerful 4 am meditation. Today, I was feeling all better in every way and absolutely positive of my decision to be here. Tomorrow I get a day off but I’m already psyched for Monday.”

At the end of week two she wrote, “Wrapping up week two of yoga teacher training with a feeling of pure joy. I’m 100% present with where I am, and who I am, which is a rare feeling for me. I’m loving Goa, my teachers and my classmates. We’re all connecting in a way I never imagined possible. It’s not just physical training and learning about yoga, which is what I originally thought…it’s therapy, it’s laughter, it’s singing, it’s dancing, it’s… releasing. It’s a journey of self discovery which includes frustration, fatigue and aches and pains in the best way possible. I’m beyond grateful my heart led me to do this, and to do it at Diya Yoga.”

In addition to the Hatha and Vinyasa forms she mostly focused on for her certification, she also got to try some other forms of yoga like Acro on the beach!

Nothing like welcoming the sun with sun salutations. It was such a beautiful place.

Leading a class was part of the final exam to get certified. During the training she realized how much she closes her eyes while practicing yoga. Gotta open those peepers to teach! Haha.

Some of the wonderful friends she made. Top Right: During a tai chi class. Mamma Meera, the owner of the school, demonstrates with a roar. She was a perfect nurturing balance to Azuka’s fire (Bottom) and helped Mandy see things on many occasions. Not to mention, she actually made yoga philosophy super interesting and turned it into thought provoking therapy sessions.

Officially certified! Mandy was lucky to do it with a phenomenal group of classmates (everyone but her from Western Europe) and teachers and couldn’t have asked for better people to have this experience with. She would definitely recommend Diya Yoga in a heartbeat to anyone wanting to do this certification!

She wrote afterwards, “Well, it’s official. I’m a yoga teacher. And what a experience it has been. I’ve probably learned more about myself, my mind, and my body in the last month than in the last two years of growth combined. Here’s a few of them…

1. The crucial importance of tucking your tailbone. When sitting, when standing, when doing poses. Standing or sitting up straight doesn’t mean sticking your bum out and is a common mistake. This is not good for your low back. It was quite a shock to learn I’d been doing it, along with many other poses, mostly wrong for many many years.

2. One of the most beneficial things you can do for yourself is daily inversions. Even if it just means sitting in the simple position with your legs up the wall for five minutes a day. Seriously. Try it. This “yoga medicine” is one of the most powerful positions which can help with anxiety/depression, back pain, blood pressure, headaches, fibromyalgia, arthritis, digestive problems and varicose veins. In fact, I haven’t been wearing shorts or short skirts in nearly 5 years because I’ve been so embarrassed of my developing varicose and was even considering the surgery. Happy to say they’re greatly reduced. And it cost me nothing.

3. I have realized the potential I have to be flexible, strong and balanced. I’m doing poses I never thought possible and holding them for longer than ever. I feel like a freakin warrior.

4. I had gotten away from meditation in the last few months. I’ve been reminded of the value of sitting still every day and just feeling the beauty of the moment and your breath.

5. Worrying is a waste of life. All we have is this moment. Value it, treasure and be grateful.

6. Everyone you come in contact with can probably teach you something. Always open your ears. Be ready to learn.

7. I am strong and I have a lot of wisdom to share.

8. Hugs are free. Give them often and genuinely. A 20-second hug reduces the harmful physical effects of stress, which makes sense as hugging is known to lower levels of stress hormones like Coritsol.

9. I am so very grateful to certain people in my life. For my parents. My friends back in the States and around the world. My new friends from this class. My teachers who shaped me past and present. And, to all those who believed in me. Even when I didn’t believe in myself and was so consumed by negativity and anxiety. I am also grateful for me. For not giving up.

10. I already knew this one, but this month reinforced it all the more. I am beyond grateful for the man I fell in love with 12 years ago. For being supportive of me in every way…calming me, holding me, laughing with me, and loving me, always, unconditionally. You are the yin to my yang and I truly am the luckiest to have you, Mr. Chase.”

Hard to say goodbye. Off to the next adventure. SE Asia here we come! Little did we know at the time that a big life changing pandemic was on its way as well.