For many travelers, the utterly mesmerizing and picturesque treasure of Antigua needs no introduction. It’s been a tourist hotspot for decades, and was very much a gem that captivated my young husband at the age of 22 when he first rolled through on a chicken bus, backpacking his way through Central America. And he’s been eager to return ever since….this time with su esposa, less (physical) baggage, and some wrinkles and grey sparkle in tow. 

And despite the 25 years of changes, both for himself and the destination, he still found it absorbing. And, my sentiments are equally fulfilled…despite the number of grande Starbucks coffee cups we saw bopping around. 

Yes, there are tourists. But what makes it different is that Antigua still feels mostly authentic. Its bougie and artisanal establishments, and there are many, blend effortlessly into the scene and overall, the town is far from a perfectly polished showpiece. Instead it’s draped in crooked cobbles, pops of palms and patina, and a characteristic cacophony of bustle and ruins to relish your eyes upon.

That said, below is our personal list of stats, money saving tips, and personal upsides and downsides. 

In Summary…

Time Spent: 28 nights 

Money Spent: $1633 or $58.31/day* in USD/two people, which breaks down to:

• $807 (Accommodation) 
• $511 (Groceries) 
• $162 (Transport) 
• $90 (Restaurants)
• $62 (General) 

*Please note, $152 of this budget was the shuttle from Antigua to our next destination so removing that, $52.89 more accurately reflects the daily budget. Also, we put our volcano adventure on the splurge account ($220)

Our itinerary: (28) Nights Antigua, (1) Overnight on Pacaya Volcano, and (1) night on Lake Atitlan

Would we return? Undoubtedly, but next time we’d stay for two months

Best Budget Saving Tips

• Don’t eat out regularly; and if you do, avoid tourist restaurants, international cuisine or chains.  
• Secure a good rooftop with your property so you’re not as tempted to drink at rooftop places for views!
• Walk…everywhere if able. There’s no reason not to. 
• Take chicken buses if you want to go outside of Antigua if possible
• Shop at the Centro Mercado for all fruits and vegetables
• Learn some Spanish. You’re much less likely to get gringo prices if don’t have a basic knowledge….and smile! 😀 

Our Upsides

• Idyllic and predictably sunny and springlike (24C/75F) weather almost every single day (January/February) 
• Volcano views from our rooftop terrace
• The walkability of Antigua is fantastic. There are very few holes or obstacles that usually coincide with Latin American countries. That said, the sidewalks are not really conducive for a romantic stroll, as they’re are usually single file only. 
• Very few street dogs, at least in the core
• The city has done a remarkable job preventing modern development in the city, or even allow it to encroach the city’s boundaries. It’s very well-preserved.
• Antigua is full of charm; from its colorful pops of color, its ruined churches, and its regular volcano views
• We felt completely safe everywhere we went, including when I was on my own  (Mandy)
• Transportation is very easy to organize to further afield destinations via shuttles. We went through Adonis Tours for Lago de Atitlan, the airport (our friend), and to Mexico, and were quite satisfied. 
• This said, your shuttle buses will typically run on Latin time. 
• The Spanish accent was fairly neutral, and thus relatively easy to understand 
• Locals regularly made eye contact and said buenos dias….completely friendly and welcoming despite the large number of gringos that infiltrate their town.
• No mosquitoes or bugs
• Fast/stable internet, (except one town-wide outage that lasted about 12 hours.)
• The avocados were about $.30/each and the perfect consistency, so our need for healthy fats was very content, eating one every day
• The local and supermarkets are terrific; and you can buy almost any gringo-friendly item at El Torre. 
• The coffee is delicious…but expensive. Don’t expect it to be much cheaper than in the US/Europe for a quality brand, despite the fact it’s a coffee producing country
• There are a lot of activities and offerings that appeal to expats/slow travelers including breweries, all types of yoga, cafes, salsa, farm/table establishments, language exchanges, Spanish schools, art exhibitions and inviting places to chill or work.
• It’s simply an easy and welcoming place to live and be. 

Our Downsides

• Having high exceptions of nothing but sweetness and juiciness, we were repeatedly disappointed in the fruit we bought….even the fingerling bananas, which are always a guaranteed sugar hit. We did enjoy the seasonal strawberries and the occasional ataulfo mango, which were still expensive at a little over $1/each. We had no issues with the veg…it was delightful and inexpensive!
• There aren’t a lot of immediate hiking options available in the vicinity, unless you want to pay for tours
• No city parks, only plazas. Nature is definitely lacking.
• For us, there are simply too many tourists/expats here, which made it lack a certain authenticity. It didn’t have the local/lived-in vibe which we truly appreciate. We doubt that many locals actually live in Antigua anymore? It feels like it’s San Miguel de Allende-ing?
• Alongside this, there’s an overwhelming amount of English. Where’s the challenge in that!?
• The firecrackers…oh my goodness…is there ever a day that we don’t need to have a holy explosion?
• The center is also quite bustling and busy the majority of the time, even having multiple weddings most weekends. This was a little too much for us, especially because there was usually someone shoving a flier for a tour or massage in your face. 
• Our apartment was away from the historic center, which helped us keep our sanity and gave us a soft landing pad every night. 
• Eating out for us was cost prohibitive (around $8-15 for entrees) other than Menu del Dias at local joints, where you could eat for around $4-5. 
• As we got closer to the end of our stay (mid-February) there was more nearby crop burning so the air quality and visibility (of the volcanos) worsened.