There’s only been a few places in our lives we’ve been completely captivated by from the moment we stepped into its enchanting landscape. Guanajuato is undoubtedly one of them. Every precipitous hill, every mesmerizing color, every delectable meal, every neighborly encounter, it’s an absolute marvel. This is the very essence of Mexico and made us realize all the more how lucky we are to have this astounding and welcoming country as our neighbor. This post is dedicated to the reasons we fell in love with this photographer’s dream and will undeniably return again and again.

The Colors + The Callejones

Ambling throughout the callejones (alleys) of Guanajuato is like being tossed into a box of spilled Crayola Crayons. The 64-color box you always wanted, not the 24-color box you always got.

One spectacular thing about Mexico (and most Latin American countries we’ve been to) is that creativity appears to never be stunted. If you want a beautiful mega mural outside your house, you paint one. If you want a lime green front door, your homeowner’s association can’t stop you. It feels so…freeing! And the color certainly proves this.

You will find fountains, which were once used as water sources sprinkled throughout the city. Pun intended.

In Guanajuato, there is not a doubt where the whimsy happens….you can find it in the callejones.

The Street Art

Going hand in hand with the color is the delectable street art goodies. Mandy was lucky enough to have a sweet local lady named Conchis Medel, reach out and offer to take her on a personal tour of some of her favorite art near the University of Guanajuato.

Conchis had an eagle eye for details so it was wonderful to see them through her eyes! She even introduced Mandy to one of the artists. Of course, all this was done…in Espanol, as Conchis admitted she didn’t speak a lick of English. After two months, we were at basic (very basic) conversation level now so that felt like an accomplishment 🙂 

Most of the famous sites of Guanajuato in one vivid mural, including the literary figures Sancho and Don Quixote. Although you’re right in remembering these guys are from Spain, and not here, you will find them absolutely everywhere in this city. 

Yes, they appear to be holding hearts ♥️ 

Loved the spray paint in this one. Certainly a more modern depiction.

Can’t even begin to count the number of Virgin Mary’s there are. Of course, certainly never seen anything like the one with the flags in the States. What a concept and a lovely illustration of how Mexicans might just see things a little bit differently.

An eagle and an iPhone. Because, por que no?! 

Donde Senor Waldo?! This is the garage door of the artist that Mandy met. The details of Guanajuato are just adorable and complex in this rendition when you start looking at the detail. Conchi pointed out many of them which made for a very good Spanish lesson. 

Mandy and Conchis have a selfie with Fluffy. 

This one represents the Garden of Eden. You can see their little bare bums in the bottom left hand corner, although time is starting to strip Adam’s head. 

What a welcome to your home! 

A lobo (wolf). What a great vocabulary builder!

Even the kids get involved in drawing the murals. Or…perhaps just someone who draws like Mandy. ?

A plethora of stunning images tucked amongst the callejones. We seriously wandered them for hours and hours just soaking in one after another.

La Comida

The food of Guanajuato is absolutely delicious, and certainly with more than enough flavor options to last us for our full five weeks here. Not to mention, eating out at least once daily is more than attainable when meals cost between $3-$10 for the both of us. Below is a sampling…

Coctel de Camarones: Mexican shrimp cocktail was one of Mandy’s favorite dishes, particularly those sold at any of the stands in Mercado Hidalgo (she tried a few.) It’s a fresh and healthy cold tomato soup, similar to gazpacho, loaded with avocado, vegetables and shrimp. Served with a side of crackers or bread, and it can also be made with other mariscos like octopus, fish or oysters. Cost: $50 pesos ($2.50)

Enchiladas Mineras: A massive portion of Enchiladas Mineras for $75 pesos ($3.50). Enchiladas Mineras is a local dish of Guanajuato which comes from mining times when the women took this dish to their husbands at the end of their work day. The enchiladas are stuffed with potatoes, carrots, radishes, peppers, and topped with ranchero cheese and of course all the fixings. They are also served with a side of chicken or beef. Deliciously addictive!

Tacos: (Of course) Greg enjoys this heap of tacos (Carne asada, bistec, and chorizo) from what grew to be our favorite Taqueria, Taquería Rinconcito Mixe, about a 5-minute walk from our place. Cost: $45 pesos for 3 ($2.25) 

Gucamaya:? We thought we ordered a “Guacamaya” (because that’s what the cart said) but after just reading a description of guacamaya online, we’re pretty sure this is not what we got. Who knows what this is?! It seemed to be tostadas, layered with a delightful tomato, spice, onion and avocado based topping. It also seemed to have some sort of ground seafood. Doesn’t really matter what we consumed; it was tasty!

Google reviews actually led us to this Guacamaya guy in front of the Mercado Hidalgo declaring that he was “a very nice man!” And he was, (even though we felt a little Guacamay-ed; that was obviously our fault due to the language barrier.) Cost: $40 pesos ($2)

Guisados: Our first guisados were had at a puesto near the Regional Museum of Guanajuato. Guisados are a form of taco that are stewed and typically served for breakfast or lunch. They are filled with anything from mushrooms to potatoes to beans to all kinds of carne. They are awkwardly served with a spoon (they’re super messy if you pick them up.) Cost $7 pesos ($.34)

Molletes, which we had at the very famous Truco 7 restaurant, (and a couple thousand other times), is a traditional sandwich from northern Mexico consisting of a halved bolillo bread roll that is topped with refried beans, cheese, and tomato salsa. So simple, and so AMAZING.

Mexican molletes, often eaten for breakfast, are sometimes referred to as a distant cousin of the Italian bruschetta, and in southern parts of Mexico, they are often served with pico de gallo, which gives them a perfectly picante-y kick. Cost: $55 pesos ($2.70.) 

A delightful agua fresca made with sandia (watermelon.) $20 pesos/$1

Gorditas: We were recommended to a wonderful Gordita puesto (stand) in the Plaza del Baratillo, by a former local who lived here 20 years ago, and they are still hopping every single morning (thanks Maria!) This was our first experience with gorditas.

Gorditas are thick tortillas from Mexico, made from masa corn flour and stuffed with a variety of ingredients such as meat, cheese, beans, nopal cactus, and salsa or guacamole. Even their name, gordita, means little fat one in Spanish, referring to their thickness, (not what happens to you when you eat too many.) Gordita is a word that is commonly used as a term of endearment. So yummy we went back multiple times on our route home from class. Cost: $15 pesos each ($.75) (Taste Atlas)

Believe it or not, after over two months in Mexico, we finally needed a break from Mexican food. (We never thought we’d say the words). Fortunately, Guanajuato offered several great international options, including a really tasty vegan falafel place called Habibti Falafel. Cost: $93 pesos ($4.50) for a giant-sized one which we split.

Also, at Mangiafuoco, we managed to snag ourselves a divine Italian-style pizza made by a real Italian, who has lived in Guanajuato for 20 years. Needless to say, it was the best pizza we have had in a very long time. Cost: $150 pesos ($7)

And certainly this was our first sushi in Mexico at the Japanese deli called Delica Mitsu Campanero. Pretty decent! A ten piece California roll cost $68 pesos ($3.30)

And of course, the bane  of our existence…the hundreds of panderias. (Bakery) Mmm. But it’s so good. And soooo cheap. Anywhere from 2-10 pesos ($.10-$.50) We especially love the powdered sugar cream horns at the bottom filled with custard ?

The Walkability

We gushed about the walkability of Guanajuato since we arrived, but what you need to know is WHY this city is so walkable. In its entire historic center, (which is huge) there are NO main thoroughfares for traffic. In fact, all the traffic is hidden through wide tunnels to divert all traffic away from the center. Inside them is an labyrinthine netherworld of junctions, crossroads  and stone. 

Amazingly, the tunnels were not created for traffic, but as a diversion for the Guanajuato River, to prevent flooding to the early mining town in the early 19th Century. The tunnels are perfectly safe to navigate along, although it can be unpleasantly fume-y 

They are organized similarly to the subway tunnels in New York. And, are even safe for tourists late at night, say the locals. We didn’t test this theory and  only ventured inside during daylight.

Los Mercados

The markets were absolutely phenomenal in Guanajuato. We especially loved Mercado Hidalgo. From the produce to the drinks to the food. Also, they were very cognizant when it came to COVID practices. You can see the little holes cut out for ordering. Who needs expensive plastic shields?!

Also, we always have to talk about the weird fruits we find. This fruit, commonly called the Chocolate Pudding Fruit or the Black Soap Apple, just may win awards for the most disgusting-looking fruit we’ve ever laid our tongues on.  

It slightly resembles a persimmon in appearance, but inside is off-puttingly squishy unlike that fruit. No knife is needed; you just rip it open to resemble a gooey mess that, if you convince yourself hard enough, looks like brownie batter. Or, if your perception isn’t that creative, it probably looks more like…something else. 

It does not. Taste. Like. Chocolate. Pudding. It also doesn’t taste like black soap. In fact, we decided it was equivalent to a fig jam, but blander. Really not much flavor at all, but it is chocked full of potassium, vitamin C and vitamin A, so we still get some good out of it, even if our taste buds don’t. 

Well, at least it’s not the worst tasting fruit we’ve ever had….we still reserve that prize for the noni. 

La Gente

We love the Mexican people. More often than not, they always say hello, they always smile (even if it’s an eye crinkle through their masks), they are incredibly hospitable, and they are some of the hardest working people we know. We loved this sweet lady who sold flowers in Plaza de Baratillo.

Two sisters pose for First Communion photos at the Ex Hacienda de San Gabriel. They were so shy around us.

Families enjoying their Gorditas.

Such wonderfully hard-working people!

The sales gal at our favorite produce stand.

Two girls pose for a picture for us. We loved chatting with them, as it’s always way easier to have a conversation with children than adults in Spanish! They are so forgiving 🙂