There is so much more to Czechia than Prague. In fact, when we were teaching English in the mid-2000’s, it was a well-worn joke that all of our students had “a house…in the nature” and they would tell us stories about weekending in the Czech countryside, amongst emerald deciduous forests, sweeping rock formations and tinker toy villages.
The nature of the country is truly one of its most captivating secrets and is often unknown to people outside of its residents. The vast and carefully organized trail network was always one of our favorite things to do when we lived in Czechia. This is why, when we went returned in 2018, it was a must to dip our toes in once more. We settled on a place that Greg had been to before, but Mandy had not yet explored…the truly mystical rock formations of Ardspach and Teplice Rocks, which are a 2.5 hour trip from Prague. This visit could easily be done in a day trip, but we were not really interested in rushing it, so we took a couple nights, staying in the nearby town of Nachod.
Ardspach is a place where dramatic sandstone rock towers soar skyward 200+ feet leaving you feeling dwarfed as the trails wind and weave up ladders, through ravines and into caves. What an incredible place to get back in touch with nature!
The ethereal wonderland is adjacent to the Polish border, covering 17 square kilometers in northeastern Bohemia and costing a very reasonable 70 Czech Krowns, or about $3. It’s so fun to bob and weave amongst the trails…making you feel so small!
Many of the trails climb up narrow gorges and passages, which are definitely not for the claustrophobic!
There is one giant big loop trail that takes you along the perimeter of the park. If you follow it, you will see many of the features in this post.
Even though we got we went on a Saturday in August, we were pleasantly surprised to find lots of opportunities for solitude.
As you walk along the labyrinth of trails, you will inevitably wander across a gate. These gates were once used to indicate the entrances of each “rock town,” or concentrated collections of the monolithic giants.
A great place for hide and seek!
Climbing the first set of stairs to Dragon’s Head lookout. 300 metal steps and not for the weary…
… because they only get steeper as you go up. Stairs transition to steeper stairs which transition to ladders. Not for those who fear heights!
The lookout from the top of Dragon’s Head.
Greg at the top in 2005…
…and again in 2018.
Back on the ground, where the walking is a little bit easier on raised boardwalks.
Not to mention gorgeous!
This area is Wolf Gorge, which is far less crowded than the main loop. We we so enamored by this lovely meadow that we pulled over, climbed up a rock and enjoyed this idyllic place for a lunchtime picnic.
Continuing on…wow, everywhere you look, just wow! Although we haven’t been there yet, we wonder if it has a bit of a Cappadocia of Turkey feel?
Climbing up through one of the many passages.
A shrine built into the sandstone.
Needless to say, Ardspach is rock climber heaven! And what a stoic profile of this guy. Wish we knew who this was so we could send this photo.
Another gorgeous expanse of the rock town. What’s hard to believe about this place is that it was literally unknown in the world for centuries, even though it was obviously here for millions. In early days, local communities ventured here only in the face of danger or to escape from invaders. The first climbers and foreign visitors appeared as late as at the beginning of the eighteenth century. But, the maze was still unknown for majority of normal population. Only after the great fire in 1824 the rocks began to emerge from the dense forests that once had grown there.
Many of the rock formations had names to keep you entertained on the way. Meet The Mayor and Mayoress. That lump of stone does look pretty regal…
Slipping into one of the many ravines.
Oh yeah, forgot to mention, we weren’t usually alone. Don’t go on a Saturday in August!
Not usually into selfies but had to try and capture the height.
Escaping the crowds and enjoying a snack by the crystal clear Blue Lake after our hike. Simply serene.
The train station heading back. We stayed in an Airbnb in the nearby town of Nachod.
Nachod
The town of Nachod on the Polish border made a great place to stay for a couple of nights. This community of around 20,000 people is one of the oldest Jewish settlements in the Czech lands founded around 1340. The Church of St. Lawrence on Masaryk Square was first mentioned around 1310 and has a unique wooden, and slightly disproportionate onion dome plopped on top.
On the opposite side of the square…a museum which we didn’t get the chance to visit.
And up on the hill, you’ll find the spellbinding Nachod Castle, which also characterizes itself as a fortified complex and “opulent princely residence.” Originally a Gothic castle, founded in the mid-13th century, it was rebuilt in the 16th and 17th centuries during the tenure of the Smiřický family into a Mannerist castle. It has stunning baroque architecture, five courtyards, a dungeon, a cellar and a bear in a pit, who sadly still lives there.
The outside of it almost looks wall-papered.
What a unique contrast.
One of many traditional Czech meals…chicken, piled with cheesy cream sauce and a side of croquettes (potato balls).
Hradec Králové
On the way back to Prague, we paused for a few hours in the charming and historic city of Hradec Králové, at the confluence of the Elbe and Orlice rivers.
We loved soaking in the colors of the Staré město (Old Town). This bustling city once served as a commandeering trading post on the route between Prague and Krakow.
This eyesore of concrete and wheeled objects was once the site of that great market on this otherwise gorgeous triangle square. Is that an oxymoron?
Standing at a central location in the square at the city’s Marian Column is a great place to see Holy Spirit Cathedral and the White Tower, which we took the 233 stairs up to in order to take the the preceding picture.
The view from the top.
The bell inside the white tower is named Augustin and is evidently the second biggest bell in Czechia (after the one at St. Vitus Cathedral in Prague Castle). It’s been chiming since 1581.
Mandy was so inspired by this bell that she authored the following lyrics, which seemed to haunt us on every tower tour from that point forward: “I like big bells and I cannot lie….you other clappers can’t deny. When a tower strolls in with a little bitty face and a metal thing in its space…you get rung!” (Copyright 2018)
And on that note…everything was certainly bright and interesting in Hradec Králové…including this guy. It was a great stop that few travelers get to.
Exploring Czechia is the best. 🙂
