Off the Beaten Path in Luang Namtha, Laos

The Adventure from Nong Khiaw to Luang Namtha

As alluded to in a previous post, the next phase of our journey in Laos from Nong Khiaw to Luang Namtha would involve the most bone-shaking bus ride we’ve had in several years with road conditions that made us have flashbacks of Ethiopia or Nepal. The good news is, this time one of us wasn’t sitting on the floor on a rice bag with a baby’s diaperless willy aimed at us like an armed missile.

For this ride, pop a Dramamine and certainly forget about reading or any other kind of work. Podcasts will be your only saving grace on this type of expedition. Although the journey is only 229 kilometers (142 miles), it cost $24 for two tickets which included 8.5 hours of spine shaking massage work featuring jarring, braking, jolting and weaving. Oh yeah, we 40-something backpackers have still got it. 🤣

Because we knew it wasn’t going to be a joy ride, we arrived to the Nong Khiaw dirt lot they deemed a bus station the day before to buy our tickets in advance because we wanted to make sure we scored a real seat rather than a plastic child’s chair for the duration of (first world) hell.

When we arrived, there was a massive line of backpackers all waiting to receive tickets for Luang Prabang. For the record, MOST of these people had already bought “tickets” from their accommodations but now had to get tickets…again. Also, all these people had to somehow fit into two half full mini vans along with a car top full of dust-covered backpacks and one poorly chosen pink roller bag with emoji stickers, including the poop one, plastered all over it.

After waiting nearly 45-minutes in this giant clustef%#ck, we victoriously found ourselves at the front of the line, and told them we wanted tickets to Luang Namtha for tomorrow. Naturally, we were then told to step aside and wait some more while they dealt with the barrage of people behind us who had just booked tickets or didn’t have any at all..to depart…right now. And, one British girl, who had just booked a half hour ago, seemed to think she deserved a place in the front of the sardine-packed sweat box. Don’t be this person.

Needless to say, if you’re going take vans from Nong Khiaw, book in advance, directly from the station (it’s cheaper anyways, but maybe go in the afternoon(?), and prepare for some fantastic organization. The next day, we arrived an hour early to stake claim of our well-earned front row seats. Once we sat down, we saw they even had a teeny tiny sign indicating our destination.

Naturally, the van left 45 minutes hour late due to a similar predicament as the buses the day prior, and then proceeded to stop 45 minutes after because evidently the driver was hungry, while we and the Europeans stood outside the van and most certainly didn’t eat because we had just left. However, the offerings did look scrumptious, including “Jelly Corn” and other likely FDA approved vegetables.

Four hours in, we made it to Muang Xai where two silver-haired Germans piled off in this very off the beaten path destination. Total badasses. Here there were also more bus snack options. Fortunately, six+ years of continuous travel has taught us to come prepared with a sack of nuts, banana bread and ready to eat fruit items of which two fellow riders asked us, “wow, where’d you get that banana!?!” Bananas are bus ride GOLD. Unfortunately, we didn’t bring a cluster to share.

Back on the safari jeep. Minus the giraffes. Instead, because the roads are so atrocious, we saw a semi that had completely jack-knifed and separated from its trailer in a ditch. Reality check…that poor guy was bound to have a day far worse than ours!

Blessedly, we finally arrived to the Luang Namtha bus station in one piece, which was conveniently located 15 minutes from the center.

So, with five other backpackers, we piled into a Laos tuk tuk whose driver refuse to discount the ride despite the number of us even though an Israeli guy tried his best to haggle. (We simply didn’t have the energy after 8 hours of bone quaking.) After a quick dinner of whatever we could shove in our mouths ($1 stir fry noodles), we arrived to our hotel, Phou Iu III Bungalows, which looked far more inspiring by morning light.

Especially after we’d had a complimentary full breakfast of a yogurt bowl with fruit, baguette and scrambled eggs.

Our room, constructed with bamboo woven walls and ceiling, was quite traditional and elegant in its Laotian get-up. The cost was $20/night, which included enough floor space to do a round off back handspring (probably) and a fireplace in case it got cold enough. It didn’t, but certainly dipped to very pleasant sleeping temperatures without the need for A/C. Our bamboo furnished balcony overlooked a garden and was also quite nice for grabbing a beer. And our bathroom was clean…with a separate shower stall, which is quite a privilege for us.

The outside of the facility clearly has seen better days. Although it has two giant pools, one with waterslides, the recent floods have wreaked havoc on the facility. They have a whole lot of work ahead of them 🙁

Exploring Luang Namtha

The only reason most people go to Luang Namtha is to do a hill tribe trek because this region is one of the most ethically diverse and culturally rich parts of the country. Although we were both feeling significantly better than a week prior, Greg still didn’t feel well enough for this kind of jungle-filled adventure. Thus, we ended up with two days in Luang Namtha without a plan.

One day, of course, was reserved for recovering from the wild ride to get there (see yesterday’s post) and with the other, we decided to do the “Luang Namtha Valley Route,” a self-guided motorbike journey which promises to take you through eight ethnic villages and five cultural and religious sites in 2-4 hours. It was a good way to spend the morning, but certainly not something we’d go out of the way to see.

The map can be found at luangnamthatourism.org, and is very professionally done, we’re guessing by an overly ambitious English-speaking volunteer who is quite gifted in marketing. The challenge was, almost nothing on the route was open, based on a Thursday morning during high season.

Regardless, it’s always a good idea to get out and embrace some freedom on a motorbike in Laos.

After renting a $9 overly priced motorbike and filling it up with gas (because god forbid, they give you a bike with gas in it in Laos), we headed north to our first stop of Samakixay Temple. It sits on top of a hill offering a view of the city, which although surrounded by foothills, feels quite uninteresting compared to the places we’d previously been in Laos.

This temple was a roll down the hill from the glittery and golden Luang Namtha Stupa, which was finished in 2008 atop of another more mature stupa. Inside the stupa, one could find a lovely golden Buddha to match the exterior, as well as decorations, made of Chinese(?) cash.

Outside was more impressive to us because it was surrounded by fields of rubber trees, which were planted to fund the building of the stupa. And, wow, were they producing!

Next, we headed to the village of “Hat Yao,” which is a Hmong Village known for its embroidery. We stopped off at the handicrafts shop to check out the craft-making, which was unfortunately closed.

Traditional homes in the area, many which were made with woven bamboo walls and ceilings like our hotel room. Almost all were raised, to protect from flooding.

We then jumped on the road “3A” where we able to zip by fields and fields of rice, and other crops, as well as more rubber plantations…this one with a house folded gingerly inside.

The most interesting part of the day was passing the Sacred Forests and Tai Dam Cemetery, which is located between Ban Poung and Ban Pasak. These sacred forests are designated for burial rites and are culturally and spiritually significant, often containing plants used during the funeral ceremonies.

These colorful and eccentric cemeteries look a bit jumbled, tucked back in the forest making them quite easy to miss. What looks like a rendition of a kid’s playhouse is placed over the tombstone for protection and offerings. The site is tied to the Tai Dam ethnic group, known for their unique customs and beliefs surrounding death and afterlife. Their cemeteries often feature unique markers and structures that symbolize their connection to nature and their ancestors.

During the burials, traditional prayers and chants guide the spirit of the deceased to their ancestors in harmony, and offerings such as food or symbolic items, are made to assist the soul’s journey. It was definitely one of the more intriguing cemeteries we’ve seen in awhile.

After getting our dose of the dearly departed, we heading to “The Boat Landing” where according to the brochure we could grab some lunch, or at least a drink. It was closed too.

More kids’ playhouses, actually used for agricultural workers, sprinkled throughout the rice fields.

Next stop…the Phieng Ngam Handicraft Center. Phieng Ngam village is an ethnic Tai Daeng village known for weaving. According to the map, here you can learn about the weaving process, take a weaving or dying class, or relax at the cafe. You may be surprised to hear…none of this was open.

Still, after stepping over a dead snake, we got to take a peek at the looms, and the materials using for creating silken threads, which are spun from the cocoons of silkworms, which are copious in the valley. To produce these fine silk textiles, villagers patiently unwind each cocoon and through an intricate process of spinning, dyeing and weaving, create intricate, sins (traditional Lao skirts), scarves and wall hangings in a variety of patterns, shapes and sizes.

Our last stop on the tour was a hoof up the overgrown entrance to the Poumpouk Stupa. It was glittery gold as well, and also hosted a giant beehive (top right) which would destroy dear allergic Greg on contact. So, we chose to stay away from that…

The map of the Luang Namtha Valley Route. If you choose to do this by bicycle, know there is absolutely no way the “fast route” could be done in four hours. The roads are challenging enough on a motorbike. We saw one poor guy on a bike and he looked like he was seriously regretting his decision, especially as the mid-day sun came out to play.

Later that evening, after a shower, we decided to get coated in dust again as we walked to a riverside restaurant called Nat Phob. It was a very local restaurant with zero foreigners….and the only thing we knew we could ask for was BeerLao because of the massive company sponsored marquee umbrellas that exist in any good drinking hole around the world.

Naturally, it was served warm by two very giggly girls who spoke no English, so we also had to ask for some ice via Google translate. And boy…did they bring us ice. And straws. After a couple beers, dinner was in store so we asked to see the menu. Uhhhhh…..No problem. Chat GPT saved the day…again. Sort of. We pointed to several items for which giggly girls kept shaking their head no.

But, eventually we settled on Papaya salad, which were definitely NOT “NOI” or “little spicy.” We were practically dragons for the rest of the evening and our poo was not a happy traveler the next day. Also, with our papaya salads, they brought a little bowl of soup, which had some floating organ-y looking meat in it. This remained on the table….maybe to become a gift to the fish below?