It’s phenomenal what can happen in your life when you just will it to happen. And, sometimes things serendipitously cruise along at the perfect time, with the perfect people and the perfect place. We feel this way about this last minute housesit in rural Castelo Branco, Portugal, a place we never would have gone otherwise, and is an example of exactly why we try and avoid making firm long-term plans. We only got this 20-day sit about four days before it was set to start. Harry and Katherine, healing therapists and Portuguese expats from UK/Netherlands, had just joined Trusted Housesitters on a complete whim hoping for a last minute miracle. And along comes us.
We took a five-hour bus ride southeast from Braga to the town of Fundão (20 euros each) and were promptly welcomed into their rented home near Pero Viseu with hugs and slobbery kisses from their Great Dane, Merlin. The only one who seemed a bit detached was the kitty, Murphy, who warmed up to us in no time by bringing us presents, demanding to be stroked and giving us the ultimate in feline affection…head butts. They treated us to wine, dinner and a lovely chat upon arrival and we enjoyed their company so much, we were a bit sad to see them go.
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Being on this 7-acre cherry farm beneath the Portuguese sun was a wonderful and healing respite. In addition to having dozens and dozens of fruiting cherries at the pick and call (ha), we had full access to lemon trees, (which is weird after living in Lime Land for so long), fresh herbs, a swimming pool, car, and farm-fresh chicken eggs. This was clearly, at one point, a full-scale cherry operation. There are picking buckets galore and every tool you could possibly use for harvesting cherries, olives, grapes, oranges, lemons, figs, mulberries, and about any fresh herb you desire. Not to mention extra structures, gardens and a full sustainable life virtually provided here. And we must admit, while living there, we continually fantasized about building our own wonderland one of these days with a very similar vibe. There is SO much potential!!
At right, Farmer Greg in action. He did have to be extra careful because there were lots of bees!! And yes, he’s still allergic.
The pool provided great therapy to help Mandy keep moving while not being able to walk. It was a wee bit chilly for Greg’s taste, although he did get in one very hot day (while squealing like a girl, a bit).
Our daily view…rolling mountains and blue skies. A glass of healing red wine a day keeps the doctor away?
Merlin, the Gentle Giant. He’s definitely the biggest dog we’ve ever sat, and a completely sensitive lover. We are learning that Great Danes are very soulful, emotional and sometimes, moody. The most adorable thing, however, is when he would lay his head on the sofa or even your lap, to try and get attention.
But when he got to playing, we had to watch out because if he jumped, not knowing his strength, he could accidentally knock you around. Mandy had to keep her distance when she’s standing because he had a way of butting up against her crutches and thinking she was a bowling pin.
And it wouldn’t be a proper rural escape without…chickens, or frango as they’re called in Portuguese (although this might be the kind you eat). All the frangos have human names, including one named…Katherine. After his human mummy.
Katherine, Sarah, Kelly, Nickola and rooster David as well as geese Freya, Izzy and William gather around to see what kind of delicious scraps are for breakfast. We didn’t really figure out the “role” of the geese, but the chickens provided daily. Usually 2-5 eggs with some of the creamiest yellow yolks you could ask for. Merlin loved accompanying us as we collected the eggs and did the daily feeding. Despite his stature, the poultry surprisingly didn’t seem threatened at all by Merlin.
On a much sadder note, a week into our sit, we found Nick(ola) slumped over and dying in her coop. It was so sad. It appeared she had been attacked by another animal (presumably a lynx or a bird or prey) and was bleeding out. It was a sad day for our little chicken family.
Views of the house.
A cider press. Mmmm…Greg dreams of creating a quaffable cherry kriek beer.
Our first big grocery trip, with lots of high quality goodies, was 105 euros ($111). Prices are definitely more expensive than where we had previously been in Latin America, but cheaper than the States. Not to mention, it was pretty much our only expense while living there. And oh my goodness… the wine! Still can’t get over. All the bottles Greg got were 3 euros and under, marked down from 8-12 euros. Ok, so it’s now understandable how the Portuguese people drink 4 liters of wine a week per person!!! Wow!
Murphy usually spent the day napping on the bed. Within a few days, he was being much more affectionate to us and grew to love us. And yes, the feeling was mutual. He loved his daily brushing and sat on the table until we gave it to him. You didn’t even have to move the brush, he just pushed his face and body where he feels the extra attention is needed. Hehe.
And then, he started to love us so much that he brought us presents! This resulted in us discovering a mouse in the sofa, chasing it through the house and finally trapping it under an ice cream container (ah! The real reason Greg bought that!) before the ultimate release.
Fresh lemons anyone? While there, we made every recipe we could using lemon juice….salads, shrimp scampi, pastas, lemon chicken. It was fantastic to pluck these giant handfuls right off the tree.
Some of the many delicious meals we’ve made with our fresh and local ingredients!
Shakshuka, a mix or peppers, onions, tomatoes, cumin and paprika with fresh eggs. One of our favorite Middle Eastern dishes.
We love Aldi markets wherever we can find them, but when they have real baked bread, a slicer and Pasties de Nata, they are definitely a step up. Pasteis de Nata are Portuguese custard tarts dusted with cinnamon and absolutely divine.
However, one of our favorite parts about the property was exploring it after they mowed and finding out just how massive it truly was. It had a wine cellar, guest house, (4!) abandoned RV’s and truly so much potential. It made us pretty excited about finding our own property like this one day.
Exploring the Area
The nearest village of Pero Viseu was about a 5 minute drive, or 15 minute walk (25 by crutches!) And no, Mandy did not attempt that jaunt. The village had a basic store and necessities but we had to drive about 20 minutes to get to Fundão or Covilha for full services.
Near Pero Viseu, one can find a stunning ancient Roman bridge over not-so troubled water.
Capinha
So….because of our time in this part of Portugal, we became kinda enamored with Portugal. Not the Madeira, Porto, Lisbon-y touristic side, but this totally unexpected rural side that we landed in kinda by fate. Living out in Castelo Branco definitely made us move closer to our unrealized dreams of where we want our forever home to be. Bulgaria has been at the forefront of our mind for awhile, but perhaps Portugal might also be in the running. We’ve loved having access to a car, thanks to our housesit hosts, and exploring neighboring villages where real estate is surprisingly a bit more affordable than we originally thought. ? Needless to say, we could get very used to Sunday drives here…
Above…the square and church of Capinha had 411 residents as of 2021.
Streets of Capinha.
Although the town was once Roman, and features original Roman fountains, this didn’t stop the residents from gawking at our Italian-plated SUV. Once you gave them a friendly wave, however, they usually softened.
Love the original kilometer marble marker signs directing you down the road.
Which is right next to this fitting mural. Glad we were taking the car and not the horse that day.
The properties that caught our eyes the most were the quaint farmhouses with land, extra guesthouses or barns and lots of established fruit trees.
Probably not this 22-room fixer upper mansion with a turret (not pictured) going for 650€. ($697,000) or this other castle-looking monstrosity.
Penamacor
Entering the significantly larger village of Penamacor. (Population 1500)
Streets of Penamacor, tucked very close to the Spanish border. We loved seeing all the signs directing us to Espanha. Not yet. Not yet!
Penamacor was home to Vamba, King of the Goths, who ruled the Iberian Peninsula (Spain and Portugal) between 672 to 682 AD.
The pretty little town of Penamacor as seen from its peak.
The Clock Tower is leaned against the medieval wall, the wall that played an important part in the defence of the town doors. Its construction dates, almost certainly, back to the middle of the 14th century.
Houses in Penamacor.
Aranhas
The next stop was Aranhas, which yes, means Spiders.
Although we don’t know why. There must be some lurking underneath the beautiful granite charm…
We like the way the car lurked in the shadows. Big churches…and mini churches. Which were possibly crypts?
Salvador
Entering Salvador. Their publicity should say, “Salvador. Even the toilets are cute!”
Two colors of cobbles.
And those roses…blanket everything! Even the church.
Monsanto
Balanced on a hilltop surrounded by 360 views of rolling mountains, blue skies and red rooftops, Monsanto village utterly redeems the bad associations we have with this name in the States. This out-of-the-way jewel in the Castelo Branco region has been named the “Most Portuguese Village in Portugal” and “Most Historic Village” as well. To be rewarded with really stunning views and the oldest part of the city, you have to climb up to the walled Knight’s Templar. Just make sure you arrive to scout it out before the bus load of tourists do their drop off first! Despite this, it still feels mostly tranquil. And for us, it was a huge bonus to only be 45 minutes from our house!
The village of Relva, apparently about to get bombed, is a village you pass through on the way up the narrow, winding road.
Granite, granite galore! We fell utterly in love with all the stone in Monsanto, and all these villages.
How’s this for a B&B?
The snug streets of Monsanto, including at right, the Clock Tower or Lucano Tower which a silver rooster atop. Apparently this is the “trophy” you win in 1938 when you receive the award for “Portugal’s Most Portuguese Village.”
And as you ascend, the views magically change into a Hobbit land, including doors inside rocks.
Meandering through town.
According to the sign, “This shelter, previously a pigpen and today a quaint tourist spot, results from the open space at the base of various boulders. In the local popular architecture, it is common to integrate these large rocks into constructions. They often serve as walls, adapted or unmodified, or are partially used as roofs.“
Ceded in 1165, Monsanto was one of the first places to be fortified as part of an operation to prevent Muslim incursions. (It was previously a Muslim castle)
The massive granite boulders are scattered everywhere and some of them look so flawlessly placed.
The trail to the top of Monsanto is part of Portugal’s “red” Grande Rota das Aldeias Históricas trail. Portugal, like so many European countries, has hiking trails that weave its way throughout the country. It’s already whetting our appetite for a return visit.
The fortress wall. Check out the butterfly that slid into the frame!
Finally! Greg reaches the top!!
Uh oh. Here comes the people. ??
Better snap another quick crowdless photos while he can!
What an epic view!
Mandy, waited patiently at the bottom, and chatted with a nice Portuguese/Dutch lady over a glass of 1€ ($1.05) Vino Verde.
Idanha-a-Velha
Rolling into the ancient walled Roman City of Idanha-a-Velha. It was founded at the end of 1st Century BC and is thus, one of the oldest cities in Portugal The first thing we encountered was the São Sebastião Chapel. The round arched door dates from the 17th Century.
Santa Maria Cathedral
The North Gate of the fortified wall was originally established between late 3rd and 4th Century AD. The perimeter is 750 meters.
Ancient streets of the town. If only these cobbles could talk.
The city has been described as a “modest village with a rich historical background”
It has a lot more ruins and room for exploration, but unfortunately we were feeling a bit exhausted after a long day so we’ll have to leave that for our future hike through.
All roads lead to Rome after all…
Sortelha
We’ve been amongst many medieval scenes, but the hilltop village of Sortelha maybe be the medieval-est of them all. In fact, a movie crew selected it for their set and were preparing for the upcoming filming of “Damsel” when we arrived. And who can blame them for choosing Sortelha? Its stone cottages squatting on a rocky ridge and wrapped in a onerous wall have virtually stayed the same throughout the centuries. And other than them, the village was virtually empty. Inconceivable! Above is the original wall and entrance to the village.
Teetering on the edge of the encompassing barrier, the elegant castle of Sortelha was built in early 13th century as a refuge in case of an attack, which is why it stands on a high location, easy to defend.
All of these props were set up for the movie. Unfortunately, they didn’t want us taking too many photos of the crew and props. It was quite a set-up of crew buzzing everywhere creating, painting, staining and positioning. So fun!
Entering the village, Mandy takes a break. She had to do this quite a bit, but well worth the hobble!
Unbelievably unchanged. (Minus the satellite dish?)
Look! A slow motion action shot!!
The Bell tower.
At the top of the village, outside of Casa Árabe, you can find well worn Arabic script which speaks to the once Arabic takeover. It’s over this door, if you’re seeking it.
Those steps were made to last.
Bar Boas Vindas (Welcome Bar) is one off the few commercial businesses in the village. Unfortunately it was closed on the Tuesday we went.
Nothing car friendly about these streets ?
A lavish and regal coat of arms
One of the more recent walking path additions…with an elephant. Although elephants were never used in for work in European Middle Ages, they were often given as luxury presents between rulers and seen as a token of royalty.
Mandy setting up shop with a noteworthy backdrop.
Silent streets of Sortelha. Apparently very few people still live here. Most live in the new village outside of the fortress walls.
Mandy hangs out (bad joke) at the central pillar which was used for public hangings. The purpose of such displays has historically been to deter individuals from defying laws or authorities. Attendance at such events was historically encouraged and sometimes even mandatory. (Google Arts & Culture)
Greg mounts the castle walls.
Peeping through the key hole at Mandy far below. The grates, at the bottom of the photo, were designed to be used as a defense mechanism to pour hot oil on would be invaders. 700 years later, we’re still finding ways to kill each other.
Like traveling back in time.
Quite a daunting wall. It has the essence of the one from Wizard of Oz.
The wall around the village is miraculously almost completely intact amongst a sea of red roofed homes.
A video walk through of the gorgeous town of Sortelha.
The ultimate in watchtowers.
Leaving the village behind. Like other medieval villages we’ve visited recently, we were infatuated with the idea of the red cross country trail winding its way directly through the village. Definitely going on our 60 by 60 List.
Sabugal
If you asked a child to draw a castle, he or she would probably reach for the gray and sketch something like the quintessential and elegant castle of Sabugal. Famed for its striking gothic castle, Sabugal is also one of the highest towns in Portugal at 750 meters (2460 feet.) It’s also one of the biggest towns in the area at 12,000 people making it an ideal place to stop for some lunch.
Lunch at Millenium featured soup, a delicious seafood stew chalked with shrimp, cod and clams, lemon pie topped with berries and a half liter of wine, which Mandy got when she asked for a glass. 
Total cost for two: 18€ or $19.31
The town of Sabugal
As we wrapped up our time in the region of Castelo Branco, we felt beyond grateful to have met such a wonderful, emotionally inspiring, positive, and healing little family like Harry, Katherine, Merlin & Murphy. Thanks to three weeks of these stunning and tranquil surroundings, Mandy left being able to walk with one crutch and made great progress. And…we’ve also discovered something we never would have otherwise known had we just visited Porto and Braga…how enchanted with Portugal we actually are. We’ll undoubtedly be back!
