Now that we had completed our three-week tour of Central and Eastern Java, we could more accurately evaluate the cities we visited and of them, Surakarta, also known as Solo, easily ranked in as our favorite, and one we’d love to return to. Granted, this is based on first impressions because we only spent one night, but it had a captivating allure from the moment we arrived. 

We liked Solo because it immediately felt like traveling back to another time. We found a vintage wholesome 1950s-esque charm, inviting neighborhoods with adorable kids, gained exposure to traditional Javanese culture through its batik village, and both rudimentary and elaborate Dutch and Javanese historic architecture, which, like Jogja, is tied to its rich history with the Mataram Sultanate. (In 1745, it split into two courts: Yogyakarta and Surakarta. Surakarta became the capital of the latter and developed into a significant cultural and political center in Java.) 

That said, both stops are equally significant in this part of the country.

One thing we’ve loved consistently across Java has been the way neighborhoods feel like complete enclaves, tucked away from the buzz of the traffic and chaos. One of the most endearing in Solo that we found was the Kauman Batik Village. This area boasts a nifty 50s vibe, where it feels like a total time warp. Not to mention, the red and white Independence Day buntings really added to the nostalgic aura.

There were also lots of leafy green alleys to dart around in. It was here we bumped into a dad carting around three daughters on his moped. They were ecstatic when we walked by and said hello. It’s evident by their reaction that not a lot of foreigners pass through here. 

The village of Kauman Batik has long been a center for high-quality, hand-made batik, with designs that reflect both royal and Islamic influences. 

Speaking of batik….Hey! That guy looks familiar! (It’s the creepy puppet guy that Greg painted for his batik project in Jogja!)

This neighborhood was loaded with fun things to check out, and rickshaw bicycle taxis in case you don’t wanna walk. If able, we’d definitely recommend wandering though because it was so pleasant! 

For lunch we stopped at WESJA, a traditional restaurant which has clearly been an institution for decades. It had sturdy wooden tables, lavish antique chandeliers, and giant woven plates adorning the walls. As usual, we were the only foreigners in sight.

We grabbed two buffets and two turmeric juice drinks called kunyit asem, which we’re now officially addicted to for $7 total. In case you’re curious what the glossy olive-looking items are, those would be boiled quail eggs, which tasted pretty much like a regular boiled egg but creamier. We also had a fossilized fried fish which looks like he was found on a seabed. Years ago. He was less tasty. 🤣

The village is home to numerous batik workshops and stores, where visitors can observe the batik-making process, learn about the techniques, and purchase unique, locally produced batik textiles. We’ve heard it’s a bit overpriced, however.

Continuing to wander, we loved this old sign, which looks so vastly different than this one.

People put so much creative energy into the outside of their homes in this area like these water bottles repurposed as wall planters.

In fact, most of the decor used recycled goods like this bottles turned into street lamps.

Moving on, we checked out the historic 1700s Dutch fort where we found the rustic remains of these two dancers donning traditional tribalware .

We loved the way the city turned historic tram stops into shops and restaurants.

Gedung Djoeang 45 is a historic building that holds significant importance related to Indonesia’s struggle for independence. The name “Djoeang” translates to “struggle,” and “45” refers to 1945, the year Indonesia declared independence from Dutch colonial rule. 

This building, which is often used for cultural events, has an eye catching clock out front, and delicious gelato which can be slurped up for $1 a scoop. We recommend enjoying it in this courtyard out back which seemingly transports you to Europe. There is a boutique hotel back here which goes for $17/night. Not sure we’ve been many places with better value on luxury hotels than in Solo.

This wall encompassed the edges of another enclave and housed what appeared to be a miniature European train station.

The city was such a mish mash of sites as you roam. 

Laundry art on a typical house in Solo’s center. 

We (Mandy) was elated to find a prominent palace in her favorite color scheme, also the same as our wedding colors. The entrance to the royal palace of the Surakarta Sunanate dating from 1744. The palace once served as a cultural and political center for the Javanese monarchy in Surakarta. It was built as a new seat of power after the original capital of Kartasura was destroyed during the Javanese Wars of Succession. The palace is an important symbol of Javanese culture, architecture, and history, reflecting a blend of traditional Javanese design with European and Islamic influences.

Nearby, we also witnessed the fluffiest chicken we’ve ever seen donning the same color palate, as if she planned it. Wonder if she’s a royal pardoned chicken?

We couldn’t go beyond the entrance gate because it was closed, although there was an adorable bicycle rickshaw driver that offered to drive us around. When we told him we were just “jalan jalan,” he laughed and gave us a thumbs up. 

The entrance, especially with its patriotic red and white buntings and wannabe eagle, reminded us more of a prominent bandstand from the States, circa early 1900s. Where’s the banjo-ist? The architecture was definitely unique.

Signs of the crown. Today, while the monarchy no longer holds political power, the Keraton Surakarta palace remains a cultural institution. It continues to host traditional ceremonies, festivals, and serves as a museum that showcases Javanese art, culture, and royal heirlooms.

We also ran into kids…everywhere…drinking “es the” (iced tea) out of plastic bags, who were so excited to see us. From their limited English education, all the Indonesian kids (and generally, adults too) know the exact same phrases: 

• “What’s your name?” Mandy usually replies “Amanda, like the margarine” because it’s a brand name here, which typically gets a laugh.
• “Where do you go?” The reply is “Jalan jalan” which means basically a leisurely walk, or literally, walking walking.
• “Where are you from?” When you say USA or United States, you often get a blank look until you say “America.” You don’t have to tread so lightly with this word as you should in Latin America. The reply of the people is usually… “Ah, America! Obama!” Initially, it would seem they too have blocked out the last eight years, but in fact most Indonesians know him due to his childhood ties to the country where he lived from ages 6 through 10.

Moving through the neighborhood near the palace, we delightedly continued to encounter the same color scheme.

And…so many reminders of their upcoming Independence Day, on August 17, which we spent in our next destination of Malang. It was sort of anti-climactic from our perspective with all the decor and build-up since early August. No fireworks. No parades. No pomp and circumstance. In fact, we asked our host in Malang what they did to celebrate he answered, “We pray. And then we eat.”

The protective wall, which now encompasses the neighborhood we were in. Believe it or not, motorbikers would regularly pass through this one-way atmospheric hole, ducking as they glided through, which led directly to the bustling street on the other side. 

The bustling street where we were greeted with a magnificent sunset. This is also about when the Agung Surakarta Mosque began its call to prayer, only adding to the ambience.

By the way, getting to Solo was incredibly easy. We took the commuter train from Yogyakarta which costs $2.50 and it took a little over an hour. This little gem should definitely be on anyone’s stop coming through Central Java.