Göreme Ridge Trail
Although we loved the unique experiences like cave hotels and hot air balloons, the reason we loved Cappadocia the most was the buckets of hiking opportunities. To kick off our eight nights in this whimsical region, we stayed in the tourist hot spot of Göreme for two nights and almost immediately went on the ridge walk up to the top of the town for a bird’s eye view.
We began our one hour round trip by skirting past all the souvenir shops and Turkish ice cream flippers to head north out of Göreme towards the open air museum. We ran into quite a bit of construction making the area quite dusty but were immediately rewarded with views far more rewarding than pottery and key chains. Ahhhh…now this is why we’re here!
Cappadocia has been inhabited by human settlers since the Palaeolithic Era. It was home to the Hatti tribe between 2500 and 2000 BC. (Discoverwalks.com)
Another human, or now part mountain goat, clamors to the top of a rock.
The jagged peaks hover like shark fins over the terrain. And yes, thanks for noticing, we’re on the trail again, after a long six month hiatus. ?
Horses are everywhere in Cappadocia and have been for centuries. In fact, this name (Kapadokya) has been used since the late 6th century BC and was known as “the Land of Good Horses” by the Iranians. Ancient Kings would receive gifts and tributes of horses. The horses were part of the taxes paid to the Persian government.
It’s undoubtedly one of the most interesting places we’ve visited from a geological perspective. As you can see many have doorways leading right inside.
At the top of the ridge, much of the scenery resembles the Badlands in South Dakota, USA.
Although it’d be less likely to find this there.
And when the sun begins to set, the colors begin to pop even more. Wow!
This clusters village could very well belong to Papa Smurf.
Atop the ridge, you can see both the geologic wonderland on one side and the town snuggled into it on the other side. Most tourists only make it to the viewpoint with the flag on it. However we came at it from the opposite angle and encountered hardly anyone. Another bonus? We didn’t have to pay the whopping 5 Liras ($.25) to enter. ?
Today, churches are not the main constructions tucked into the rock. Instead, you’ll find buckets of tourist services including hotels, restaurants and shops.
Mandy showing off her new moves. It’s been a long time coming.
What a beguiling wonder where man and nature has united.
It almost looks like a theme park. But way cooler…because it’s real.
This dome is practically cut in half so you can have a glimpse into another world.
Amber Cave Suites…one of the many Hobbit-like hotel options.
A tree bedecked with magic eyes keeps the bad spirits away
As usual, we used Mapy.cz to develop our trail. It was 2 km in entirety. A perfect amount to test our hiking shoes again.
The Castle Cave Hotel looks particularly elaborate.
We had worked up an appetite. Stuffed grape leaves (yaprak Sara) or a pile of unorthodox cigarettes, not sure which. In any case, they weren’t very good, and incredibly overpriced. Ugh. We really don’t like super touristy places. ?
Pigeon Valley Trail
One of our favorites was the Pigeon Valley trail which dropped us down in the canyon giving us a totally new vantage point en route from Uchisar to Göreme. It featured more green splotches than anywhere we’d seen in Cappadocia yet, distinctive rock formations we had never seen anywhere in the world, and lots of cave dwellings and tunnels ripe for discovery. It was also an ideal length as we’re easing back into hiking of about 1 1/2 hours and 4.3 kilometers.
You can hike this trail from Uchisar to Göreme or the other direction. We chose the former as it was slightly less elevation gain. It’s a pretty easy trail otherwise. You can get to all towns in the area by local bus which costs 10 Lira or about $.50.
Our full Mapy.cz map. You begin the trail by heading down a wide dusty road into the valley far below Uchisar.
And before long, you’re surrounded by something we were a bit starving for…GREEN!
Gnome domes and fairy chimneys galore…the landscape is ever changing on this trail!
Gazing back upon the village of Uchisar. We posted about our visit to Uchisar Castle, or the highest point in Cappadocia, in a previous post.
Mandy is so happy to be hiking again 🙂
It’s remarkable to see how water has formed this volcanic valley. We’d never seen anything quite like it.
Kind of like perfectly synchronized ballet dancers dropping a skirted leg into the canyon.
Caves carved into the tuff rock on the trail.
It’s called Pigeon Valley because of all the pigeons who nest in the coves high with the rocks.
This one almost looks like it has a reflection.
The entire landscape of Cappadocia has some similarities to the US southwest state of Utah, but it was formed completely differently. The landscape was once made of lakes, which exploded 60 million years ago in a series of volcanic eruptions.
Someone sure is trying to stand out…
And then, meandering into a tunnel with only our phone flash light. Fortunately it was pretty short!
We’re calling this one “the bishop.”
And these ones just seem happy to see us… On that note…görüşürüz! (See you?)
Rose Valley
It was nearly time to bid the fantasyland of Cappadocia farewell, but not without one last jaunt into the Rose Valley. So we downed another (forced) cup of bitter tea, tossed on our hiking shoes and the four of us departed directly from our cave camp in the Red Valley.
Like all our hikes in this region, it was different…extraordinary in an almost indescribable way. This is because at every turn, we kept one upping the astounding scenery pictures from the days before or stumbling into another time-worn rock-cut church camouflaged by massive rock shield. If you do any hike in Cappadocia, this one (with varying lengths) should be the one.
To get into Rose Valley, first we had to put in a little stamina to clamor out of the Red Valley. Fortunately we had been blessed with a bluebell kind of day in the mid-70’s F (mid-20’s C).
And we loved having hiking buddies.
Of course, after we’d be gone for about 30 minutes, they were ready for another…you guessed it…Turkish tea conveniently located in a shady “cave cafe.” ?
But even before we arrived, there were lots of snack breaks because grapes were growing wildly at every turn on this unkempt vineyard.
Lots of curiosities to peer in along the way. Shortly after the tea time sign, we arrived at Haçli Kilise or Church of the Cross which was sharing real estate with the tea stand. They were also selling fresh squeezed orange juice here, which we chose rather then be doused in yet another helping of caffeine. When Greg went to pay the bill for three OJs and two teas, they charged him an obscene 160 Lira ($8.75). Which in Turkiye equals complete exploitation. This is when we learned to let our Turkish friend, Feriha, handle the commercial exchanges when we are with her. ?
After the OJ swindler, we were ready to burn off some steam and replace it with pretty stuff right nearby.
Oooo….where does this fun passage go?
Apparently to nature’s ultimate picture window! Wow!
And another much less stable 20th Century set of rickety stairs led us to some of the best frescoes we’d seen in Cappadocia yet.
These frescoes date from the 9th Century and are insanely unprotected from human paws. Not even a rope to barrier them off. There is also no charge to visit any of these churches. Probably why they couldn’t afford a rope ?
The cross of the Church of the Cross blankets the entire ceiling. It likely also dates from 9th Century.
Hopping back on the trail..
…and encountering more unmarked wonders…although it might be Joaquim and Anna Church(?) Joaquim and Anna are apparently the totally unrecognized parents of Virgin Mary, for the record.
Peculiar windows and gargantuan fairy chimneys whose entrances will remain a mystery.
You never know where to look here. Because, hidden behind yet another uninteresting rock facade was the most splendid of them all…Kolonlu Kilise, or Column Church. After crossing a small bridge, you enter a similarly uninteresting room packed with cute little candle and/or pigeon holes. As you patiently wait for some excitement (perhaps a cave kid to pop his head through one of them?) you soon realize you’re wasting your time….
…because the real excitement is in the next room. Peeping in your eyes unveil a series of soaring white Petra-esque columns illuminated by some sliver of sunbeams.
And when you enter….this. An architectural marvel hand chiseled out of solid rock. The guide inside said it was built in the 4th-6th Centuries. However, online it says 11th so we doubt that dude’s credentials. Regardless, imagine the symmetry and precision required to create nine such columns. Each pillar stands on a large square block whose corners have been carved away to create roosting spaces for pigeons.
What is with the pigeons in Türkiye?!
The back room is even more architecturally compelling as curved pillars reach toward a round snake like beam in the middle. The entire design mocks traditional building practices and foreshadowed the ribbed vaults of Gothic churches in Europe. (Cappadociahistory.com)
Heading back to camp, we pass more fairy chimneys than we know what to do with.
The downward slide back to Red Valley was a bit of an adventure featuring rock staircases and chain bannisters. We’re gonna miss Cappadocia. It was so much fun.
