From Sandanski, it was time to head 9 hours northeast to our next one month perch in Plovdiv, which we’d be splitting between a private apartment and a housesit. Now, one might look at this nine-hour chunk of time and think…that’s absurd in a country the size of Iowa. It kind of is, considering we weren’t even crossing half of it. However, this country is also laden with mountains which doesn’t always make land travel efficient. This is particularly if you would like to take the train, which, thanks to old and kerplunkety lines, is still a great value…unlike the buses.

Of course, as mentioned other posts, getting to the train station in Sandanski wasn’t exactly efficient either. Therefore, we walked 20 minutes to the main bus station and caught the 10 am mini bus to Blagoevgrad, where we waited 1.5 hours for the next train to Sofia…because in order to go east, one must go north first. 

Unless you’re under a time clock, with the pricing, we don’t know why anyone would choose NOT to travel by train. As always, it’s far more comfy…and loads more nostalgic…

…especially when Mandy got to break out her favorite lyrics over our Lidl lunch… “I like big beans and I cannot lie… you other legumes can’t deny.” 

But, it certainly helps to pack a bit of Cyrillic because the only thing in Latin script is the places that tourists tend to go. A map of the very expansive train network in the country.

The trains have character which coincide with their cost. Our tickets cost about $15/each…$5.25 for the one hour bus ride to Blagoevgrad, and $9.50 for the 5.5 hour train journey to Plovdiv, via Sofia. It should be noted however, that they are in process of building a high speed railway across the country which will certainly speed up, but likely also change these costs, especially when the Euro arrives. 

Interestingly, while waiting for our train in Sofia, we also saw an old Gendarmarie truck. From 1991 until it dissolved as an independent agency in 2014, this militarized special police force deployed to secure important facilities, respond to riots and counter militant threats. (Wikipedia)

Arriving to our place in Plovdiv, which we desperately snagged two months in advance for $31.40/night. It was virtually the last decent, and anywhere remotely close to our budget option on Airbnb or Booking for the 2.5 weeks we would need it, but is in a grittier neighborhood far from center. In comparison, in 2019, we got a stunning, spacious and well located apartment for $27.44/night. 

There was nothing really wrong with our apartment otherwise (unless you feel hostility when being surrounded by fire engine red), but it proves that Plovdiv is far from the budget destination it once was. 

One convenient thing about our location is we have a decent park, (but far from Sandanski quality), sponsored by Rotary, right next door…it had some fun characters. But we’re definitely in panalak city again. 

Although our apartment itself is functional and fine, (other than the typical shower room), the wafts of nicotine residue and general countenance of the entryway has a bit to be desired. But the cute Communist era mailboxes are just darling! 

Funnily there was also a little tilt-up key shop right at the entrance to the building (in case we wanna make key copies for our friends, family, and followers to visit.) There’s also a coffee vending machine at every entrance because Starbucks are not on every street corner. We’re really suffering here. 🤣🤣🤣

Housesitting in Plovdiv

For the second half of our time in Plovdiv, Greg and I relocated ourselves closer to the center and have become immensely more comfortable for this and many other reasons…

• Small conveniences like blenders and toasters are available.
• We have sharp knives.
• Our shower is not directly above our toilet.
• There are multiple places to sit and lay.
• We have a lovely view of the mountains again thanks to our fifth floor perch.
• And of course the icing on the cake….not one, but TWO cuddly cats that we don’t have to coerce to be friends with us!

Yes, we were housesitting. And yes…it’s still our favorite way to travel. Don’t forget, if you would like to exchange pet care for accommodation, Trusted Housesitters is THE way to do it! There is just an annual fee, but you can save 25% off by using our link!

One of our clients, Kolya, was immediately welcoming as soon as we walked in the door. Our hosts, Americans Scott and Lisa, are also great. They even invited us out for dinner earlier in the month so we could get to know each other. Kolya’s nickname has become Mr. Mous, and you can probably see why.

Zoe, on the other hand was a bit aloof at first, but by the evening she was already cuddled on our laps and gifting us with head butts. 

So, as you might guess, there is some competition about who gets to sit where. (Good thing there are two of us to offer our services.) 

The mountain view from the window, as we settled in for another charcuterie board.

Nearby, there is a big park for walking/running, as well as an Aquapark where I was able to swim for $7 in the mornings during their 9-10 am “happy hour.”

Grocery shopping in Plovdiv was very much on par with our first month in Sandanski…almost on par with prices in Australia and New Zealand. This particular load, at Lidl, cost a whopping $110….a price simply unheard of during our last visit. 

We continued to make some very yummy Mediterranean concoctions with it however. (Clockwise) 1. Roasted Tomato and Burrata Basil Pasta; 2. Ajvar Chicken with Side Salad; 3. Chicken and Lemon Orzo; 4. Spiced Potato and Bulgar Bowl topped with Apetika & yogurt. Which would you choose?!

Do scoro priyateli! (See you soon friends!)

Finding Friends…in Plovdiv

It’s no surprise that US kids today are still just as hooked on the timeless TV show Friends as we were in the 1990s. But what is also fascinating is that it’s the most recognized and continually watched TV series on earth, syndicated in nearly every country, and with more than 100 million people per year still watching reruns. 

We can’t even tell you how many people we’ve personally met over the years who watch it as a tool to help them advance their English slang and “learn about American culture.” That said, we were delighted to stumble upon our first “Central Perk” cafe in Plovdiv which was packed to the brim with al fresco seating, offering a mix of socializers, workers and readers. 

A few elements that were notably different, however: 1. The cups were definitely UN-American in their petite-ness (as is normal in Europe.)  2. You get to enjoy your cup amongst a billow of your neighbor’s cigarette smoke (as is normal in Bulgaria). 3. The inside, which is where the atmosphere was truly generated, was completely empty (you can’t smoke inside), and no bald-headed blond man stood behind the counter. 

Needless to say, it was very amusing to see how it was portrayed. 

Are you a Friends fan? If so, what was your favorite episode? Leave a comment below! My favorite (Mandy) was “The One with all the Resolutions, where Ross buys a pair of tight black leather pants which gets him in a real pickle with a hot girl.

Greg’s is “The One with Ross’s Tan,” another Ross Classic, where Ross goes to a tanning salon and gets very confused by the instructions, leaving him VERY tan in the front and white in the back. 

Daily Life and Exploring in Plovdiv

Plovdiv is the oldest continuously inhabited city in Europe at more than 6000 years. Yes, this means it’s older than Rome, Athens or Constantinople (Istanbul) and bears layers of civilization dating from Thracian, Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman times. We last visited in 2019, just before it was awarded with “Cultural Capital of Europe”, and easily fell in love with its charm, maze of cobbled streets, and the ability to trip over ancient ruins left and right. 

Today, it is still just as lovely, historical and cultural, but this ranking and the interest of more tourists visiting Eastern Europe definitely made us happy we chose to spend our other two months in lesser known places.

Here are a few photos of our time in the city…

Strolling amongst charm in central old town feels like a storybook as do many places in this country. And…like many places, it is littered with Bulgarian/Ottoman National Revival style houses with gorgeous overhanging upper floors  thatmaximize interior space while keeping the street below narrower and shaded. 

Rimaki Stadion Square is folded right in the heart of the pedestrian zone atop one of the city’s treasures…the ruins of a great stadium once used for gladiator fights, animal hunts, and sporting games. 

Another claim to fame…Europe’s longest continuous pedestrian zone can also be found in Plovdiv which is 1.75 kilometers. If you don’t read Cyrillic and want to learn a bit, check out the universally recognized red sign on the right. It’s like a constant decoder puzzle…so much fun! 

One of the many parks in central Plovdiv. The Kapana district, which is known for fun bars/restaurants, craft shops and street art, and commonly where many short-term tourists base themselves. Kapana means “the Trap,” because its streets wind like a maze.

It was still notably empty by mid-morning.

There is no shortage of pretty pictures in Plovdiv. 

Arriving to Nebet Tepe, the remnants of an early fortification wall perched over the old town. It is dated from 4th Century BC, and clearly holds a magnificent view. It sits atop one of seven hills (tepeta) the city was formed around. One of these hills is now gone because its resources were completely depleted to make cobblestones from.

Back on the Nebet Tepe hill, the lack of a water source on the hill forced its inhabitants to stock up on water, leading to the construction of reservoirs for storage. The earliest preserved reservoir on Nebet Tepe dates back to the Roman era (2nd – 3rd Century.)

A different vantage point of the pedestrian street, as well as an eye-catching building in dire need of some fixer-upping.

Dzhumaya Mosque sits in an area marked on the map as Ottoman Old Town. It was built initially in 1363 on the former site of the St. Petka Tarnovska Cathedral Church following the Ottoman conquest of Plovdiv. It’s one of the largest and oldest Ottoman religious buildings in the Balkans.

Peeking deeper into the ancient stadium, of Ancient Philippopolis, which has been a large piece of the urban renewal product. This stadium remarkably once sat 30000 spectators and has only partially been excavated today.

Grabbing some very necessary Italian style gelato for $2.25 a scoop, about a $1 increase from our last visit but yes, still worth it! 😋

Mandy grabbing a drink with new friend Jen, an American who moved to Plovdiv with her Bulgarian husband six years ago to start a honey business. 

Also, while in Plodiv, we were so happy (and embarrassingly a little starstruck at first) to finally meet Dariece and Nick…aka, The Goats on the Road.

In the travel blogging world, they were some of the true trailblazers when we started following them in 2013, ultimately a huge inspiration for us to quit our jobs, sell everything, and start living this life in 2018.

And we haven’t looked back since. It’s no surprise we had loads in common, and we undoubtedly look forward to bumping into them again.

Resembling a minaret, the Plovdiv Clock Tower, which was built in the late 16th Centiry, crowns the Sahat Tepe of the city. Today, it is still working, reminding city dwellers of the rhythm of life in the past at 12:00 and 24:00 with 24 rings. Although in the middle of everything, it was quite tranquil with few other people, and amazing views. 

The flowing Maritsa River near our place. 

On another note, I got new glasses in Plovdiv. As a contacts wearer, it had been about 8 years since I’d had a new pair and my vision has slowly been getting fuzzier, particularly during late night airport encounters, which seems to be the only time I’m wearing them in public. 

Because we were in the outskirts, I just picked a random optometrist off the map who had great reviews. He was indeed very professional and kind, but turns out, he didn’t speak a lot of English so we got to communicate quite a bit in Bulg-lish, which was quite an experience for both of us, because he doesn’t get many foreigners either. It was a great opportunity to practice and we finally got there. I love my new glasses!

In other honesty, we did a lot of resting in Plovdiv. I was consumed with hip pain again, which started mid-month, and we were both just feeling generally fatigued. We’re starting to look at how we want to approach the future with a very different lens….