In the year 2001, the Mexican tourism board did something brilliant. They began recognizing pueblos mágicos, which are small “magic towns” that truly offer something a little different, whether it’s fantastic architecture, cultural curiosities, stunning natural wonders or even just exceptional regional food. Now of the 132 Pueblo Magicos in Mexico, and the 19 at least one of us (Greg) have been to, Bernal easily gained one of our top spots after spending a week staying in this little gem.
However, we would argue that the town has two entirely different faces: weekend Bernal and weekday Bernal. During the weekdays, it’s serene and lovely. On the weekend, it bursts alive with visitors from Queretaro and Mexico City and the streets fill with tchotchkes, gorditas, alcohol, and obnoxious ATV’s (some bearing six seats!) which rattled the windows of our entire apartment. Perhaps you can gauge which Bernal we preferred. We’re clearly getting old. ?
When we arrived, which took about 45 minutes from Queretaro by bus, ($120 pesos or $5.80 for two tickets), this was the first view we got of the town. One thing that makes Bernal so special is the iconic Peña de Bernal monolith, which rises 433 meters (1421 feet) majestically to create the staggering backdrop of the the town, which was founded in the 17th Century.
This monolith is claimed to be the third largest in the world, after the Rock of Gibraltar in the Mediterranean and the Pan de Azúcar in Rio de Janeiro. It was truly magnificent to gawk at, as well as climb.
This fanciful pink edifice could easily belong to medieval Barbie, or her Latina equivalent, Barbina. It’s known as “El Castillo” built in the 19th century and is one of the few iconic buildings still preserved that give Bernal its identity.
Leading up to the main plaza. At right, the alleyway directly outside our apartment door. As you can see we couldn’t have asked for a better location at $26/night.
Our Airbnb in Bernal was also in fact, one of the quirkiest Airbnbs we’ve stayed in! As you can see, we had lots of extra room and were right in the heart of Bernal, so it would also be great for a group.
We arrived on the holiday celebrating Benito Juarez, and because it was the Monday of a three-day weekend, it appeared to be extra crowded. This is a crowd waiting to be served at the elite puesto, Mexican street corn, which we mistakenly bought on a different day thinking this could be a “healthier” option. ?
The corn is mixed with spices, meats, herbs, and chiles (many varieties). It is then doused with salt, a slab of mayonnaise, lime juice and chili salt and served in a teeny wooden bowl and slapped with a really overpriced $40 peso price tag ($2). Needless to say, we declared that this would be our first and last street corn.
An aesthetically pleasing staircase leading up to the main road.
Greg thinks he would look really pretty in one of these Mexican flower crowns (teresitas.)
One thing we were excited to see in Bernal…Tuk tuks! Our first since we left Cambodia. Unfortunately/fortunately we didn’t need them because the town was so small and walkable.
Back in real life…the streets up above the center. The power lines don’t make Peña de Bernal look quite as magical.
People ride horses through the streets here!
Not sure if there’s a more darling church in existence…especially with the backdrop.
We even managed to find some wildlife!
One of the many tiendas that flood the center, also where Mandy bought a new dress! ($300 pesos/$15).
When we were wondering around looking for a fruit stand on the main road. Ah! Here it is. Not the easiest place in the world to self cater, but certainly manageable.
So many gorditas! And, Dona Jose was probably the best we’ve ever had. We stuffed them in our mouths so fast we forgot to take a picture. Absolutely AMAZING here! ($15 pesos each/$.75).
And of course, sampling wines and cheeses, which are famous in this region, was required.
One of the backstreets near our place.
Best vegetarian tacos Mandy has had: nopales (cactus), beans, a delicious blob of grilled cheese, and fries! Greg’s was so stuffed he could hardly fit in his mouth! ($20 pesos or $1/each.)
Beautiful flowers…beautiful natural wonder and a brilliant blue…mask. <sigh> Oh, but Mandy is smiling underneath. Just happy almost everyone wears them here.
What else is good in Bernal? The sweet shops!
After our hike up the Peña, (not before?), Mandy rewarded herself with a mojito. It was super minty and refreshing. ($80 pesos or $4).
Another reward, pan de queso. Yes, cheese bread, which kind of seems to be a Bernal thing? Stuffed with strawberries. ($20 pesos/$1.)
This must be the Mexican equivalent to “an apple a day keeps the doctor away.” It translates to: “a taco a day is the key to joy.” We know which we prefer…
Siesta in the park.
The weekends. ? Yep, just a wee bit different.
Climbing Peña de Bernal
The morning we decided to climb Peña de Bernal, the aforementioned monolith which pops up like a shark fin in the Mexican highlands, it was clearer and cooler than it had been on previous mornings. And, as is typical on a weekday morning in Bernal, the streets were delightfully barren. Most tourists who visit Bernal plan to climb this remarkable hunk of rock, one of the world’s largest. It takes about an hour and it’s a bit evident that the Mexicans are still getting used to this hiking thing. There are some things they do really well, like charging a small fee to keep the trail maintained, offer lots of trash bins, as well as ample signage to keep people on track. This signage is an excellent idea considering there is a boozy gauntlet that leads up to the start of the hike.
Party on the Peña! Although it’s a swell idea to have a drink after a hike like this….before? And, yes people do it! (Although there is signage saying no alcohol allowed on the actual trail.) The bottom line is, the trail is a wee bit tricky and steep in places, and unless they add some ropes and simple steps, we worry that any michelada-laden hikers might topple over. That said, on the peaceful Thursday morning when we went, it was practically empty!
The entrance booth where you pay ($30 pesos/$1.50) and they check your temp, douse you in sanitizer, and make sure a cubreboca (mask) is glued to your nose.
And the steps begin! It claims to be third largest monolith in the world after the Rock of Gibraltar in the Mediterranean and the Sugarloaf Mountain in Brazil. It’s considered one of the 13 Natural Wonders of Mexico.
Here’s where it gets a little tricky. We had to monkey crawl a bit on our way down.
Oh, but the view from the top is SO worth it!
Some also do this hike as a pilgrimage to shrines on top.
From this point, about 75% to the top, you can’t go any further without rock climbing gear.
And we had the summit all to ourselves. So amazing!!
Catching the last of the sun’s light on our last evening.
The empty bus leaving Bernal. Most of the city-to-city buses were like this! At least when we chose to travel on the weekdays.
