Upon landing a bit spontaneously in Northern Victoria and graciously being provided a loaner Ute by Farmer Joel’s father, we were able to see a resplendent, and quite abundantly gifted part of the country. It was a part that felt incredibly familiar to us…a mix of Eastern Oregon and Northern California, exuding some of the same “Old West” and gold rush enchantment, rolling farm lands, and natural wonders steeped with unique treasures and wineries. In other words, the 1.5 hour radius around their property, was ripe for exploration and we still didn’t cover it all in four full days of adventuring. 

Beechworth: Australia’s “Finest Gold Mining Town”

Our first day took us northeast to the historic community of Beechworth, which is recognized as Australia’s “finest historic gold-mining town.” It features a blend of culture, adventure, mystery, history and passion or basically all the elements of a good novel, according to a seemingly accurate plaque on its main street, called Ford Street, here. We spent three hours here, but with its charm and things to do, you could easily stay much longer. 

We’ve been told by a few locals already that Australia has been closely following in the footsteps of the States since its beginning, (including the whole treatment of its native peoples), so it’s no surprise that its gold rush exploded only a few years beyond ours. This scene too could easily be in America’s west. Looking down Ford Street, the gold office is on the left. Yes, it’s the one fittingly dressed in…gold.

It’s not just the cute building faces that accessorize Beechworth. Less than a kilometer from the center, one can also find Newtown Falls elegantly slipping over red rocks beneath a picturesque stone bridge which was built with only lock and key grooves to meld its parts together. It’s dry season so it’s not too hyped up, but apparently it’s really something in the winter.

Also on the outskirts, we also found the 1860 Powder Magazine, packaged up like a fortress. It was used to store the gunpowder used in goldmining. In its development, only copper fittings were used, an elaborate lightning rod was fitted and people entering had to wear special shoes. Should an explosion have occurred, the design of the building would direct the blast safely upwards. The magazine closed in 1918 and fell into decay. The roof was removed to stop vagrants sleeping there and it was almost demolished. The National Trust restored the building in 1966.

This Roman-esque facade once belonged to the Ovens District Hospital, which for a time was the only hospital between Melbourne and Goulburn NSW, so it drew patients from a huge area.

As we explored, another thing that reminded us of the Pacific Northwest…loads of wild blackberries ripe for the pickin. Also, a church which has since Cinderella-ed into a community bookshop.

Make sure to buzz on in to this honey pot for the Beechworth Honey “Experience,” clearly named with purpose for millennials and Gen Z instagrammers. In it, you can take your honey to a honey bar and taste more types of the sticky delight than we’ve ever seen.

While walking the streets of Beechworth, we also stumbled upon another icon of Aussie history…the Holden car which was manufactured en masse following World War II as “an affordable family vehicle” for the procreation of all the Baby Boomlets.

Beechworth is loaded with heaps of tourist appeal like wine bars, restaurants, shops and hotels, but it definitely didn’t feel overcrowded. And most of it has preserved its nostalgic character.

Paddock to Table=Farm to Plate. More reasons we don’t eat red meat. The prices! 

So charming!

The outside of the Beechworth Gold Office owned by the Bank of Victoria where most of the locally mined gold was traded. It had been awhile. So we better have a look…

…and no surprise, the goodies were irresistible. After five minutes of indecision drooling over options, including the creamy Australian Lamington, we settled on a “Beestinger” (AUD $6.80 or $4.20)…and carried the weighty almond and custardy bundle of sin up to the second floor to enjoy, where we got a great view of the town.

After that, we naturally felt the need to get some more walking in so we checked out the town’s historic train station which now sits on the 100-kilometer long Murray to Mountains Rail Trail. This trail carries cyclists from natural bushland to verdant farmland, delightfully unexpected hidden valleys and some of Australia’s most spectacular mountain ranges and although we only saw a smidge of it, it was gorgeous!

This is the historic Beechworth Gaol, aka jail, which now has community ownership committed to repurposing the space for social and event space.

Strolling by the telegraph office, we checked out “today’s news.” Unlike today’s actual news, it was a bit more localized and wasn’t inundated with inauguration footage causing every other Australian we’ve run into, (or eavesdropped on 🤣) to question how a certain felon got to rewarded with commander-in-chief. The former “Oriental Bank.” Not sure if that word is politically incorrect in Oz…

Which way do we go?! Directionals to all the different rural cities in the area. We enjoyed allowing our tongues to trip over all the aboriginal names. This had to be a fire station, and of course, there were also many signs of Anglican churches.

The Beechworth Public Cemetery, established in 1856, at first to hold on average one child per week between 1853 and 1860 who died of diseases including measles, scarlet fever, dysentery and typhoid. It was also the first we’ve ever seen with such specific segregation. There were plots for Presbyterians/Baptists/Catholics and so forth and the last Chinese person, as well as a guy shot by bushrangers (what we know as outlaws) and a expanse with no lofty pretentious tombstones designated for “STRANGERS.” 

Some 2,000 Chinese gold seekers and settlers were also buried here. The Chinese Burning Towers (1857) were used for burning paper prayers, and meals were provided on the altar for the spirits of the dead. Wild…

El Dorado & Woodshed Falls

In addition to visiting historic Beechworth on our first day of exploring Northern Victoria, we barreled down numerous country roads in our Ute to check out another, more trapped in time, mining town of El Dorado, the beautiful Woolshed Falls, and stumbled upon our first echidna, which is a fascinating, egg-laying mammal in a porcupine-esque costume native to Australia and New Guinea.

The historic village of El Dorado was once a thriving, bustling hub of activity centred around the gold rush. Today you can still visit a piece of that history in its mining dredge, which in 1936 was the largest in the southern hemisphere, clocking in at a whopping 2142 tons. 

This floating monster rests on the outskirts of the village and it operated until 1954, recovering 2.2 tonnes of gold. The weight of an average car is around 1.5-2 tons for comparison. It’s still a bit mind blowing that gold is worth enough to make all that fuss worth it. 

Woolshed Falls, once also a gold mining spot, seemed crowded by Australian standards. However, the handful of cars present all seemed more interested in getting bronzed than getting gold. It was a good place to beat the heat by taking a dip in one of the many natural swimming holes formed by the falls, which you can see when you zoom in. 

The echidna…which we found just chilling on the side of the road digging for some tasty grubs. It is one of only two egg laying mammals in the world; the other also belonging to Australia…the platypus. Echidnas are also known as spiny anteaters because of their diet and spiky appearance.

A historic schoolhouse in El Dorado

Swinging pedestrian bridge, as well as the desolate roads we followed for a good part of the day.

Near El Dorado, we found remnants of of the Chinese Gardens, which could be identified by this sign tucked in the bush, mounds of dirt and water races, or channels as they’re called in Oz. The Chinese who lived and worked the diggings in the 1860s and 70s, after the initial 1853 rush, were considered inventive and ingenious: not only successful miners but also prolific vegetable gardeners. These gardens were an important asset to the mining communities, supplying over 6,000 miners, numerous hotels and restaurants with fresh vegetables.

One of many national parks we’d be encountering during our time in Australia. We’re quickly learning, however, that “national park” doesn’t have quite the same meaning as in the States. More on that later… 

Getting our Roo On at Winton Wetlands

After our sprightly Kangaroo Race on Joel and Leah’s paddock (aka farmland), we knew we had to get a bit more boing-boing time with this fascinating creature. And there was no place better to do so nearby than Winton Wetlands, which is one of the most massive wetland restoration projects in the Southern Hemisphere clocking in at a whopping 8,750 hectares (22,000 acres). 

At first glance, the expanse looks like a a desolate, dry and eerie wasteland. However, it only takes a chunk of patience before you start seeing what are clearly espionage lurkers peeping their heads up from the stark and wiry bush. And before long, you’re completely surrounded by mobs and mobs of curious onlookers.

And yes, in case you’ve forgotten your collective noun for groups of kangaroos…they’re actually called mobs. This cluster just needs some gold chains to complete the look eh?

We were wondering why all of the trees in the wetland looked dead. Surely it wasn’t a fire that seemingly wiped out every single one?! According to Chat GPT, “the trees at Winton Wetlands often look dead because many of them are remnants of red gum and box woodland that were drowned when the area was flooded to create Lake Mokoan in the 1970s. The flooding caused the trees to die, as they couldn’t survive the permanent waterlogging of their roots. When the lake was decommissioned in 2010 and the area was drained, the standing dead trees were left behind, creating the striking landscape you see today.

These “dead” trees now serve as a reminder of the area’s transformation over time and its ongoing restoration back to a natural wetland ecosystem and provide habitats for various bird species, such as raptors, parrots, and waterbirds, as well as shelter for bats and other wildlife.

However, once you start thinking it’s all this dry and bristly grassland, you soon encounter lush green swampland to balance it out. 

But the Roos seem to prefer to blend in with their surroundings and congregate where the landscapes complement their fur.  Do you see them? 👀 

We even saw a couple joeys peeking out of mom’s pouch. Did you know that at birth, a joey is only about the size of a jellybean?! It climbs into the pouch and stays there for several months while it grows.

Kangaroos are of course native to Australia. And cartoons. Did you also know that kangaroos can’t move backwards? (Unless they’re cartoons…probably.)

The wetlands also surprisingly has some unique art dispersed throughout such as “Martin’s Barge.” According to the website Melbourne’s Playgrounds, “This unexpected sight now tells one of the many stories of agricultural history within the reserve. Martin’s Barge, from the 1980s, was used to transport young cattle over the water to Green’s Island to graze. The cattle were fattened and prepared for market before being journeyed back to Boggy Bridge Road where they would be unloaded. The barge rests here at the high-water mark.“ 

Although the original cows are obviously not included, the artist has added a colorful cow tribute to complete the look.

This water tank is a stunning visual tribute to three CFA (firefighter) volunteers and created during the 2016 Wall-to-Wall Street Art Festival.

What we were most surprised to learn about the wetlands, however, was that a small community once lived on this vast expanse which is still evidenced by the bizarre electric poles made of trees. In the 1890s, the area was made up of large families, usually with a minimum of six children. Families owned small to medium holdings and worked together as a community. In 1906 you could buy a half-acre block in Winton township for £10. 

We’re realizing these signs are as prevalent in Australia as deer signs are in the States. 

The Silo Art Trail & Benalla

Our next leg in exploration of Northern Victoria would take us to the charming and artsy town of Benalla, as well as down an even more rural, and more artsy driving tour of what is normally a large swath of blank space…massive masterpieces emblazoned on the side of….silos?!? The Silo Art Trail is a 60km loop traversing Victorian farmland which showcases and pays tribute to some people and scenes that make this region special. Unfortunately we didn’t have time to do it all, but we got a taste at the first couple stops. You can get a map for this at the Visitor Information Center in Benalla.

The artwork pictured is a visual tribute to the 50 young men and women from the Devenish community who enlisted in military service in the First World War, focusing on the role of nurses in service and how that role has evolved over time. More than 3,000 Australian civilian nurses volunteered for active service during the First World War. 

The artist is acknowledging both the historical nurse, modern day medic and the broad role women now fulfill, caring for military and civilians during wars and national disasters, including peace keeping and humanitarian operations.

The Goorambat community is very proud to have Jimmy Dvate’s artwork, which exhibits a painting of the endangered Australian Barking Owl, which unfortunately have an estimated population size of fewer than 50 breeding pairs in the wild. The silo next to it shows its habitat…an iron bark tree, which also often houses its prey like gliders, possums, rosellas and bats.

We’re realizing very quickly that rural Australia feels a whole lot like rural America. The “rural city” of Benalla boasts a vibrant cultural scene and a collection of more than 50 skilled street art murals which certainly puts some of the chicken scratch in Melbourne to shame. A guide for a street art walking tour can also be found at the visitor information center. 

The area now known as Benalla was originally inhabited by the Taungurung people, one of whom is likely depicted in this striking image.

A three-story tall alterna-kitty who’s clearly been gnawing on a piece of Berrylicious bubble gum that some kid dropped on the sidewalk. 

In the foreground, you’ll also notice a sign with an “S” marked through it. This means “no standing” in Oz although it’s referring to a car and not an item with legs. In other words, no idling or waiting. 

The parks and amenities continued to amaze as we had our lunch in a picnic bench barrel(?) by the lake. At the park, there is even a representation of an indigenous sundial. If you stood on the infinity symbol in the middle, your shadow indicated exactly what time it was. So this is how we survived without iPhone apps?! 

Clearly a Pic-Oz-Caso. Near…aboriginal art. We think?

We really like how they integrated the brick into the art….including a Benalla pin-up girl, which is quite a contrast.

And even something to speak every 80s childs’ love language, though meeting a two-story tall rodent is probably not on everyone’s bucket list.

Like in several small towns we’ve seen in Australia, the historic storefronts are perfectly preserved. Even this one. 🤣 The Aussies, like Brits and Americans, love good second-hand shops which they typically called “Op (Opportunity) Shops. 

On the outskirts of the center, you can also find the Benalla Migrant Camp, which operated from 1949-1967 after the Second World War. 60,000 migrants from Europe, such as Poland, Ukraine, Germany, Latvia passed through these gates as they prepared to make Australia their new home. 

Across from the migrant center is the aviation museum and airport strip. It predominately features military history, and was closed when we arrived. 

We know Australia has unusual flora and fauna but were a bit surprised to find blue ones. Apparently this is a country-wide campaign that’s meant to bring awareness to mental health conditions. 

Paradise Falls & Red Feet Winery

By day three of bopping around in our Ute in Northern Victoria, Greg was effortlessly driving stick left-handed on the left side of the road, and Mandy was no longer having panic attacks from the passenger seat. So, progress…. This time, it was a quicker day because we only went out for the afternoon. It took us to Paradise Falls, or more like Paradise Trickle, in yet another national park, as well as our first official wine tasting at Red Feet overlooking the breathtaking King Valley. 

The Red Feet Winery is situated in Victoria’s stunning King Valley, which is renowned for its rich Italian heritage, outdoor activities, and cool-climate wines like Pinot Grigio, Sangiovese and Shiraz. We chose it due to its proximity to home base, as well as its enticing offer…

FREE boutique wine tastings. And this wasn’t a chintzy two-pour amongst sterile wine producing equipment. It was 10 sizeable tastes, from sparkling to white to rosé to reds, in a quite enticing setting. Unfortunately, our wine and unwind mode got a bit spoiled because we couldn’t help but eavesdrop on Australians having candid conversation about the happenings in OUR country. It wasn’t positive. In fact, it was much more incredulous. We’ll leave it at that. 

That said, it’s truly bizarre to us that literally half their “world” news seems to be from the States. In the meantime, I’m pretty sure 1% of Americans could identify the Australian prime minister. (Yes, us included). Apparently, it’s always been this way. We’re both reading Bill Bryson’s “In a Sunburned Country” which is a tale of his travels through Oz. We learned that in 1967 a prime minister actually walked out into the ocean and DIED and no one in our country even heard about it. If you’re of the age to remember, and you do, please let us know otherwise. The point is, the news has been incredibly misrepresented for a long time.

The tasting room, which had a very friendly hostess named Megan who helped us try and spot some wombats rolling down from the forest. Unfortunately, they hadn’t emerged to play just yet so we still haven’t seen these balls of Aussie cuteness. Moving on, Greg practically had to slap Mandy’s hand to keep her from plucking a juice grape off the vine. She behaved.

Looks like Nebraska.

Further south, in Alpine National Park, was where we scouted out Paradise Falls, which is the longest single drop waterfall (31 meters) in Victoria, accessible via a 500-meter easy trail from the parking lot. 

It was formed over a conglomerate rock formation, or sedimentary rock composed of rounded pebbles, stones, and other fragments cemented together by sand or clay. Thanks to dry season, it was barely a visible sprinkle. Still, Greg discovered enough to dash like a water-batting princess through its steady stream.  

Mount Buffalo National Park

Our final day in Northern Victoria took us to the oldest national park in the state, and one that felt most closely aligned with the ones we’ve experienced in the US. This means…multiple trail and lookout options, many with breathtaking eye candy, vast terrain, and basic amenities like picnic tables, barbecues, and restrooms. But unlike most parks in the US, it was free (and virtually empty!) Mount Buffalo National Park, established in 1898 encompasses approximately 31,000 hectares (76,000 acres) and is renowned for its striking granite formations, sheer cliffs, waterfalls, and diverse ecosystems. 

The weather was terrific at this higher altitude so we spent the morning hours doing some light bushwalking (aka hiking) to the Cathedral and a higher lookout called “The Hump.”

The action of ice and water over millions of years has broken away surrounding granite leaving the Cathedral as a massive solitary ‘tor,” or monolith. After a couple kilometers and a bit of scrambling over rock slabs, at the top of the Hump we were met with a spectacular view and gusty, refreshing breezes…an idyllic place for our picnic lunch. Who needs Sagrada Familia?! This is our kinda cathedral!

It felt so good to be doing some proper hiking again!! It had been far too long.

Being on constant guard for snakes in this country, we were always a bit relieved to see when the “snakes” we met along the way had legs. 

A lookout (and toilet break) on the side of the weaving and snaking park road. 

Moving on, we paid a visit to Lake Catani where a few people had hit the water on stand up paddleboards and kayaks…after some shrimp on the barbie. And for the record, most Australians still chuckle (or cringe) when middle-aged to older Americans who watched too much Crocodile Dundee say this because even though they love their barbecues, they usually grill sausages, steaks, not shrimp.

The view from the top of the Mount Buffalo plateau at 1337 meters, which holds a place in yes…The Australian Alps

The Mount Buffalo Chalet from 1936 once provided accommodation on the mountain but is not currently operating. Sadly, you cannot even enter, but you can peer into yesterday via a chalet window. After seeing the national park lodges in the States, we are certain they are missing a golden moneymaking opportunity with this one.

From the lodge, we decided to take one of the many hikes that sounded most appealing…a 2.6 km path to the “underground river.” Unfortunately this river wasn’t a simple exploration feat. In fact, at the beginning there was a sign which asked:

BEFORE ENTERING THE CAVE, HAVE YOU?

•   no less than four or o more than twelve in a group (no)
•   knowledge of the cave system and exit points (no)
•   helmets with chin straps (no)
•   two light sources each (no)
•   first aid knowledge and sufficient safety supplies (no)
•   told a responsible person not present (no)
•   assessed the water levels (no)
• sturdy footwear and high energy snacks. (We had two apples left)
•   considered Claustrophobia, Hypothermia, their effects and know how to treat it. (Not exactly)
•   read the Mt Buffalo National Park ‘Caving Code of Practice’ available here or at the Park Office. (No)

And once we saw the minuscule cave opening, and heard the water pounding below us, it kinda sealed the deal that we probably shouldn’t enter. 🤣 Though Greg still had to peer in the half meter entry hole, as Mandy rushed to plunge (ok, put her feet in) one of its frosty cold rock pools.